CL BR off the chart, what do I do ?

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reelkelly

reelkelly

Member
Sep 26, 2023
18
Charleston, SC
Pool Size
14700
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-15
Hello, need some guidance on how to lower my CL BR after latest test. Always been high but today really dark reading. What do I do? Also, water temperature is at about 63 these days and dropping. When should I turn off SW cell and do chlorine tabs? First winter with pool being maintained. Last year didn’t have salt in water yet. Thank you!

IMG_4477.jpeg
 
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Thats a pretty shade of orange, it looks like how I like to keep mine.

What are your FC and CYA readings?
 
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

That test vlock measures pH (on the right side) and either FC/TC or BR on the left side). If you have a chlorine pool, it only measures chlorine.
That chlorine test is only accurate enough to knkw whether you have "some" chlorine in the pool. To get an accurate reading, use the FAS-DPD test. Also, the pH reading isn't accurate when FC is above 10 ppm.
 
Twinsies !!!! :ROFLMAO:

Screenshot_20231114_121137_Chrome.jpg

With a perpetual 10+ FC, I've found that 4, or even 3 drops of the PH reagent puts the color range back into the right color scale.


We need to know your CYA to know if the FC is high. Although, with a SWG you likely haven't spiked the CYA with tabs and/or shock. To lower FC you just turn the SWG down or off and wait it out. It could take a week or more at this point in the season if you went 0%/off. But it depends on the CYA level so hold off before that's been discussed here.

Then it's up to you when to shut the unit off for the winter. Some leave it on and if it comes on at all, it's appreciated, but I'd rather know when I need to step in so i could get some kind of regular schedule going.
 
proavia said:
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

That test vlock measures pH (on the right side) and either FC/TC or BR on the left side). If you have a chlorine pool, it only measures chlorine.
That chlorine test is only accurate enough to knkw whether you have "some" chlorine in the pool. To get an accurate reading, use the FAS-DPD test. Also, the pH reading isn't accurate when FC is above 10 ppm.
Click to expand...
Saltwater pool. I have the full test kit, I will test and post full tests. Just didn’t think I needed to do full test this week. Been consistent until today
 
Kelly,

The cell will shut itself off when the water temp gets to about 52 degrees.

Unless your CYA is really low, I would use Liquid Chlorine. It does not take much, this time of year.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Kelly,

The cell will shut itself off when the water temp gets to about 52 degrees.

Unless your CYA is really low, I would use Liquid Chlorine. It does not take much, this time of year.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim. I would use that liquid chlorine now or later when temps get lower? Will this not make my Cl Br readings even higher?
 
reelkelly said:
Will this not make my Cl Br readings even higher?
Click to expand...
Kelly,

I meant that after your cell shuts off, and your FC (We never use CL) drops to where you want it, then add Liquid Chlorine when needed to keep your FC at your target level..

In my opinion, testing CL with the color comparator block is really pretty useless. The block is really more for testing pH.

What is your CYA?? You need to keep your FC at your target level for your CYA..

See this chart..
FC/CYA Levels

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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reelkelly said:
Saltwater pool. I have the full test kit, I will test and post full tests. Just didn’t think I needed to do full test this week. Been consistent until today
Click to expand...
Which full test kit?

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info. Be specific.
This assists us in providing you help without the need to ask you each time.

reelkelly said:
Thanks Jim. I would use that liquid chlorine now or later when temps get lower? Will this not make my Cl Br readings even higher?
Click to expand...
You don't have Cl Br - you only have Cl.
But that particular test only is good enough to indicate if there is chlorine or not. Use the FAS-DPD chlorine test to get an accurate number for FC and CC.

Since your PoolMath logs are linked to your forum account, enter the results in PoolMath and we can see them there.
Be sure Track CSI, Track Salt, Track Water Temperature and Track Combined Chlorine are on in PoolMath settings.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Kelly,

I meant that after your cell shuts off, and your FC (We never use CL) drops to where you want it, then add Liquid Chlorine when needed to keep your FC at your target level..

In my opinion, testing CL with the color comparator block is really pretty useless. The block is really more for testing pH.

What is your CYA?? You need to keep your FC at your target level for your CYA..

See this chart..
FC/CYA Levels

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Jim, just ran some tests and have the following:
FC is at 20 ppm
CC’s are none or zero (is this good?)
TA is 120
CYA is 40

I spent some good time last month getting the CYA correct and now it’s back to low reading, what’s with that

Thank you
 

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Kelly,

I like to let the cold pool water warm up in the house for a few hours, before I test CYA..

Look like your FC is plenty high. :mrgreen:

Just shut your SWCG off, or set it to a really low output.. This time of year it might take a little while for the FC to come back down. It won't hurt anything being a little high.

In the perfect world, CC's should be Zero all the time.. But as long at they are .5 or less, you are good to go..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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