High TDS

Txhorns02

New member
May 14, 2023
3
Austin, TX
Let me preface that I have been out of town and the Austin area had a bad storm the other night. At some point, the breaker turned off. Also, I use test strip (IKIK) and occasionally get the water tested at Leslie’s.

There is algea. It’s the worst I’ve had. I don’t have a sand filter. I’m going to attempt to shock the pool- I just don’t know if this will work with how high TDS is. What would cause this to be so high? last season, I used pucks. I quit after having to deal with high CYA. Now I use liquid chlorine.

I know I’ll have to do water out/in to get the TDS lower. Or should I call the pool company to empty it (brace it, etc). Advice please. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • A6775679-672D-4583-9C93-31A3D480BA93.jpeg
    A6775679-672D-4583-9C93-31A3D480BA93.jpeg
    176.5 KB · Views: 24
TDS is a junk stat. I'm hovering at 3600 ppm from salt alone right now.

Think of your fridge. You have 57 items in your fridge. Do you need to grocery shop this week ? Well. That really depends on what the 57 items are, now doesn't it. If you have meats and cheeses and veggies and Spaghetti sauce, you can probably piece together meals for the week. If it's all condiments on the fridge door (I have more than 57 on mine) then it's time to shop.

TDS is exactly like that. The sum is meaningless and the individual items are everything. Even saying there is chicken in the fridge is meaningless to calculate. Is it a wing or a full bird ? Or 12 pounds of thighs ?

You will not clear your swamp with test strips. You need a reliable Test Kits Compared and then SLAM Process
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: We can help guide you, but you'll need to change a few bad habits. Ditch the test strips, pool store advice, and any concerns for TDS. That's not your problem. The first thing you need is a proper test kit, either a TF-Series test kit like in my signature below or a Taylor K-2006C. Everything about your water starts with one of those.

Then with those accurate test results, you can do a SLAM Process. We can help you from there. Have a nice weekend. :swim:
 
With a salt system your TDS reading will be much higher than what is "recommended" :eek:. So I would disregard that if you have a salt system. With liquid chlorine being sodium based, you would expect some residual salt deposited over time with a pool that has been full for a long time. :swim:
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: We can help guide you, but you'll need to change a few bad habits. Ditch the test strips, pool store advice, and any concerns for TDS. That's not your problem. The first thing you need is a proper test kit, either a TF-Series test kit like in my signature below or a Taylor K-2006C. Everything about your water starts with one of those.

Then with those accurate test results, you can do a SLAM Process. We can help you from there. Have a nice weekend. :swim:
Are the Leslie’s results not ok to help me?
 
Are the Leslie’s results not ok to help me?
Honestly, they are not. Pool store test results are inaccurate and inconsistent.
We can certainly help you, but we need accurate test results. And we can probably save you money in the process.

Pool Care Basics
How Clear is TFP Clear?

Post a full set of test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature
 
  • Like
Reactions: an1vrsy
The TDS measurement by pool stores is a mistake because it assumes that the TDS is 40% sodium sulfate, 40% sodium bicarbonate and 20% sodium chloride.

Most of the TDS is salt and that is the correct setting for the meter.

If they set the meter to salinity like they should have the reading would have been about 2,900 ppm salt.

The TDS setting is incorrect for measuring pool water.

442 Natural Water™ Standard Solution

442 Natural Water™ Standard Solution is used in calibrating many Myron L® Instruments. It is the best choice when measuring boiler and cooling water samples, city water supply, lakes, wells, etc. “442” refers to the combination of salts mixed with deionized water to comprise this standard: 40% sodium sulfate, 40% sodium bicarbonate, 20% sodium chloride.





1696035477104.png

1696035315257.png



 
This is the "Myron L PoolMeter" that many pool stores use and you can set it to T for TDS or N for NaCI.

The T setting for TDS is not accurate for pools and many pool stores make this mistake.

In my opinion, Myron L is making a mistake selling the "PoolMeter" with a TDS setting.

The N setting for NaCl salt is the only setting that should be used.

In any case, check your salinity and it will probably be about 2,900 ppm if the meter was accurate.

You should consider switching to SWG since your salinity is basically perfect for a SWG.


1696035944316.png

Select the desired range: T for TDS or N for NaCI.

S is the Internal Standard and is for field calibration only.


 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.