New VSP and pressure gauge at zero

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M

mc2021

Gold Supporter
Jun 9, 2020
108
Chicago
Pool Size
40000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hi,

I just had a new Jandy 2.7HP VSP ePump installed to replace my single speed beast. The pressure gauge used to read 10psi and it shows that when priming and with the heater on but at 1750 rpm's it reads zero. Even at 2200 it's at zero. Is that normal and if so should I use any movement as a sign to clean the filters? Maybe there is a more sensitive guage I can buy?

Also, does 1750 seem too high? I keep getting a no flow on the SWG any lower and I was was wondering if there were any tricks to get the flow recognized at a lower speed.

Thanks
 
mc,

Since you have a heater, you will most likely need to run at 1500 to 1800 for your salt cell to have a good flow light..

Large cartridge filters have very little back pressure, so you should expect to see your filter pressure be a lot less, than it was with a single speed pump. That said, at 2200 I would have expected to see 5 lbs. or more.

I think step one is to ensure you have plenty of flow and then worry about the pressure on the gauge.

At 2200 RPM, what does the water coming out of a pool returns feel like? Is it very weak, or is it strong??

Show us some pics of your equipment pad and maybe we can stop something.

For reference, I use a 30 lb. gauge, as my filter pressure never gets close 30 lbs. I assume you have the standard 60 lb. gauge.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I am getting really good pressure at the returns at 1750rpms. The automation will also kick up the rpms when the heater is on. I closed off the 2 returns on the very right to help create a bit of back pressure which seems to help with the SWG. yes, it's the 60lb gauge. Pic attached, thanks
 

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What are the two larger open-ended pipes behind the filter?
Be sure both are the required minimum distance from your gas heater and its exhaust gases.

Look into replacing your 60psi gauge with a liquid-filled 30psi gauge.
 
mc,

The problem is that your pool builder is an idiot... :mrgreen:

All the water should pass through the SWCG and then it should go to different places..

You want all that flow that you feel at your pool returns to be going through the cell.

Other than re-plumbing, reducing the flow through the pool returns makes the most sense.

The pressure you see on your filter gauge is how much effort it takes to force water through your filter and the plumbing going back to the pool. You have a large cartridge filter, and your filter's output is almost like having no plumbing at all, so it makes sense that your filter pressure is very low.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Why is the heater gas line so big?

Is the pool equipment at the same elevation as the pool?

20230925_142648-jpg.532472
 
The pad is 1-2 feet higher then the pool. It's a large gas line since it was a far run to the other side of the house where the meter is - 100'-120'.

FWIW - the 3 main returns where I do get good pressure are all connected to the 1 line off the SWG. The other 2 (booster and extra return) are really not needed but I worry about algae if I close them off.

As long as it's not a problem, I'll just look into the 30psi gauge as I never need to clean the filters mid season anyways. Thanks for the insights
 
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JamesW said:
Why is the heater gas line so big?

Is the pool equipment at the same elevation as the pool?

20230925_142648-jpg.532472
Click to expand...
Never has to worry about proper amount of gas to the heater (probably natural gas) with a line that large, as long as the meter was upgraded as well. That's what I have and my meter is only 25' away from the pool pad. Nice to see that installer plumb the drip leg properly.
Really dumb way to plumb the SWG. And, all those ball valves. . . Builder may have saved $150.00 over using 2-way Jandy valves. At least they are rebuildable if parts are available when they go bad.
 

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