do I need to test with air or water???.... I do own an air compressor (don't ask why
)...... I also own a water house......... what would be easier to set up (pressured gage, connections, etc...) and read?????
INEXPERIENCED OB Steel wall vinyl liner inground pool under construction in north texas
- Thread starter Caro325
- Start date
)...... I also own a water house......... what would be easier to set up (pressured gage, connections, etc...) and read?????
You can use air or water. Personally, I think air would be easier but others may have other ideas/suggestions.
- Jul 18, 2019
- 561
- Pool Size
- 33780
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You can also do air over water. Fill the pipes with water, then add air pressure. My builder did water. Pressure set to 30 psi. It will likely fade over time, or can rise. If the pipes are in direct sunlight, especially with air - the pressure can INCREASE. With water, the rise/fall will likely be less. Good thing with water - you will visibly be able to find the leak. With air - you have to hear it to find it.
Bill1974
Well-known member
- Jun 18, 2014
- 504
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I wish I had a fraction of your energry and determination.
Back fill to the level where all your plumbing has something to rest on. Install plumbing. Pressure test. Back fill (you will likely need to brace the walls so they don't push in) or install liner and fill the pool and back fill at the same time.
For pressure testing, usually air is used but temperture changes cause your pressure reading to vary and then you are either thinking your are good or chasing your tail looking for a leak that does not exist. The challenge with water is all the plumbing needs to be pitches so the air can get out as you are filling it with water. Also use caution when using air and friction fit plugs (they can become projectiles). For a few bucks glue on flitting that allow you to put a valve (i use 1/2" plumbing ball valves) and pressure gauge on each line (equipment end). Don't forget to test conduit for any lighting. If you use water and try to pressurize the plumbing with you hose, it can easily get to what you water house water pressure is. All the pool plumbing should be able to withstand house water pressure except the returns, skimmers and main drains. Make sure you use all schedule 40 pipe and fitting and not DWV only rated pipe and fittings.
Back fill to the level where all your plumbing has something to rest on. Install plumbing. Pressure test. Back fill (you will likely need to brace the walls so they don't push in) or install liner and fill the pool and back fill at the same time.
For pressure testing, usually air is used but temperture changes cause your pressure reading to vary and then you are either thinking your are good or chasing your tail looking for a leak that does not exist. The challenge with water is all the plumbing needs to be pitches so the air can get out as you are filling it with water. Also use caution when using air and friction fit plugs (they can become projectiles). For a few bucks glue on flitting that allow you to put a valve (i use 1/2" plumbing ball valves) and pressure gauge on each line (equipment end). Don't forget to test conduit for any lighting. If you use water and try to pressurize the plumbing with you hose, it can easily get to what you water house water pressure is. All the pool plumbing should be able to withstand house water pressure except the returns, skimmers and main drains. Make sure you use all schedule 40 pipe and fitting and not DWV only rated pipe and fittings.
Dont skip or rush the pressure test, It will cost you more money than renting the skid steer for another few days.
I think you need to leave it for a day or 2 to make sure the pressure doesnt drop.
Here are some pics of my builder pressure testing my pool.
Every end of the pipe that would connect to a skimmer or a return was capped off.
It was also temporarily capped off where it would ultimately connect to the pumps.
This sat like that for a day or 2 and the inspector came to see it too.
Every end of the pipe that would connect to a skimmer or a return was capped off.
It was also temporarily capped off where it would ultimately connect to the pumps.
This sat like that for a day or 2 and the inspector came to see it too.
that is what I was thinking about water...... it is easy to see if there is a leak..... but if air is easier then I will do that.........so I have to "plug" all the fittings and then pump into it and see if it holds, right???
ok, I will re read this 3-4 times and I will get it done
Yeah!!!! I just figured out that I better bite the bullet and keep the equipment one more week, and do it right!!!! I only get to work on this afterwork (I basically can only work on this from 6:30 to 11:00pm (as I have to get SOME sleep), and it is just not enough time to get everything done by friday
Seeing this really freaks me out!!! I put my 3 sides returns into the same line and the 2 for the steps on another!!!! Is that terrible???
Attachments
No, just not ideal. Example, in case you lose one return in a 3 return system, you still have 2 working returns whereas in your current setup, if that line fails, you have no return.
Opportunity to change it is still available.
Opportunity to change it is still available.
I went ahead last night and replumbed my 3 side returns so each is now on a separate line. I still need to do the 2 steps returns, but now I am worrying that I might need to buy more valves (which are not cheap...), I currently have
*(4) of the 2 way jandy valves (before I understood the benefits of the separate lines, I planned to use 1-on the skimmer line, 1- on the drains line, 1- on the line that was going to have the 3 side returns, and 1- on the line that control the 2 steps returns).
*(2) check valves : 1- between the heat pump and the SWG, and 1-before the pump
*(2) of the 3 way jandy valves........ I bought this ones before I really understood what valves did and I forgot to return them..... so now they are mine.
If you guys had those valves on hand, how would you set them up on a system like mine???
*(4) of the 2 way jandy valves (before I understood the benefits of the separate lines, I planned to use 1-on the skimmer line, 1- on the drains line, 1- on the line that was going to have the 3 side returns, and 1- on the line that control the 2 steps returns).
*(2) check valves : 1- between the heat pump and the SWG, and 1-before the pump
*(2) of the 3 way jandy valves........ I bought this ones before I really understood what valves did and I forgot to return them..... so now they are mine
.If you guys had those valves on hand, how would you set them up on a system like mine???
Bill1974
Well-known member
- Jun 18, 2014
- 504
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
The unseen benifit to running individual line for each skimmer and return is they are more likely to be balanced then if they are on the same line (this does depend on the plumbing layout, if the runs are not significant different is the number of fitting they are better balanced). Tee fittings are where balancing is lost. If its burried and there isn't a valve, it's difficult to balance. Having Jandy valves on each line at your equipement pad makes this easy and the alternative is fiddling with restrictor plates in skimmers or changing out the eyeballs in the returns. And there is the benifit that if a line springs a leak you can isolate and buy yourself time to fix it.
It's possible to balance the flow single line systems, but it takes some effort to calculate the flow to each return and from each skimmer and making the piping to each one have the same restriction. Unless you are familiar with fluid mechanics and like to solve a bunch of simultaneous equations or have access to software that do this running separate lines is quicker and easier.
It's possible to balance the flow single line systems, but it takes some effort to calculate the flow to each return and from each skimmer and making the piping to each one have the same restriction. Unless you are familiar with fluid mechanics and like to solve a bunch of simultaneous equations or have access to software that do this running separate lines is quicker and easier.
Bill1974
Well-known member
- Jun 18, 2014
- 504
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I did not use the 3 way valves, I put inline valves on each line. I did not have as many line as you have either, but it also made plumbing the equipment pad simpler in my mind. All my lines come thought a concrete pads that my paver are on. They all run through a 4 inch pvc sleeves so there is a little wiggle room to move them but not much.
You're going to be so much happier that you home-ran your returns. You just don't know it yet. My 4 returns and slide are home ran and I can adjust them individually at the manifold.
