Need Help using Testing to Balance Pool Chemistry

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mmrambo

mmrambo

Active member
Jun 7, 2023
29
Tupelo. MS
Pool Size
60000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I’m trying to read the pool school articles, but they assume a certain level of knowledge.
I’m trying to take over caring for our pool and am fairly clueless. When I read about tests, it assumes you know what kind of testing kit you have.
Can someone tell me what mine is?

Also, we use refresh granules…
I’m trying to use the app, but I don’t know what that translates too as my option…:

Should I just be using bleach?

We have a continual algae problem.
I know I need to SLAM, but I need some basic basic basics!
 

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Hello and welcome!
Hard to tell but it doesn't look like one of the recommended ones we use here. Can you take a picture of the case I see in the background? Can you tell us a little about your pool? Maybe take a picture of the pool and your equipment?
We generally recommend using liquid chlorine which is available in the pool section of Walmart, Lowes, HomeDepot, etc. The granular "shock" can increase your calcium hardness and depending on the type of pool you have, like plaster, that can cause problems. Or if you live in an area with very hard water, your calcium hardness could already be a problem and you don't want to add more.

So tell us a little more about your pool, what you've used, and pop us some pics - we'll do all we can to help you!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: We are a forum that enjoys helping pool owners take control of their pool. We will help you. Be sure to keep the Pool Care Basics page saved to your favorites. Download and get used to the PoolMath app as well. We've got your back.
 
Where is Eph320tl15?

Where are you located???

Please put an accurate location in your profile so we can give you advice for your location.
 
V___25 said:
Hello and welcome!
Hard to tell but it doesn't look like one of the recommended ones we use here. Can you take a picture of the case I see in the background? Can you tell us a little about your pool? Maybe take a picture of the pool and your equipment?
We generally recommend using liquid chlorine which is available in the pool section of Walmart, Lowes, HomeDepot, etc. The granular "shock" can increase your calcium hardness and depending on the type of pool you have, like plaster, that can cause problems. Or if you live in an area with very hard water, your calcium hardness could already be a problem and you don't want to add more.

So tell us a little more about your pool, what you've used, and pop us some pics - we'll do all we can to help you!
Click to expand...
Here are 2 pics of my pool.
 

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I have both of these boxes, but I’m not sure which kit that original picture came in.
 

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V___25 said:
Hello and welcome!
Hard to tell but it doesn't look like one of the recommended ones we use here. Can you take a picture of the case I see in the background? Can you tell us a little about your pool? Maybe take a picture of the pool and your equipment?
We generally recommend using liquid chlorine which is available in the pool section of Walmart, Lowes, HomeDepot, etc. The granular "shock" can increase your calcium hardness and depending on the type of pool you have, like plaster, that can cause problems. Or if you live in an area with very hard water, your calcium hardness could already be a problem and you don't want to add more.

So tell us a little more about your pool, what you've used, and pop us some pics - we'll do all we can to help you!
Click to expand...
 

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Texas Splash said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: We are a forum that enjoys helping pool owners take control of their pool. We will help you. Be sure to keep the Pool Care Basics page saved to your favorites. Download and get used to the PoolMath app as well. We've got your back.
Click to expand...
I downloaded pool math, but I don’t know what to put when it says what type of sanitizer will you use.
 

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Man, that Pentair kit must be ancient. They haven't used that logo in a long time. Either way, those are both extremely basic (OTO chlorine) test kits.

Definitely check out the Pool Care Basics page that @Texas Splash referenced above. It will give you the quick details on what you need to know. We can absolutely help you get you pool chemistry on the right track, but you will need to purchase a quality test kit since we need to know your CYA (Stabilizer) level. From there, the next step will be a SLAM. You can purchase either the Taylor K-2006C or the TFTestKits.net TF-100/TF-Pro. Both will get you the same quality Taylor reagents, but the TFTestKits models are a better deal. The TF-Pro model comes with a SmartStir by default, which is not required, but is strongly recommended since it helps eliminate testing errors. (If you go the Taylor route, you can pick up at Taylor SpeedStir, same thing).

"Re-fresh" granular chlorine appears to be Cal-Hypo. This is adding calcium to your water which will eventually become untenable. Similar to other powdered shocks and pucks which add CYA. This is why a good test kit is critical, we need to know what exactly you're dealing with.

For now, until you get a kit, I would add 5pmm worth of liquid chlorine a day. Once you work out your pool capacity, you can use the PoolMath app and the "Effects of Adding" feature to figure out how much LC equals 5ppm worth. As far as big box stores go, Walmart currently has the best deal on liquid chlorine; about ~$5.80/gallon.
 
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Rambo, dfwnoob gave some good info above. A good test kit is absolutely essential. We must start there, so until then, do as suggested and add that much liquid chlorine each day. Read up on those links and practice using the PoolMath app. With accurate test results we can show you the ropes.
 
mmrambo said:
Here are 2 pics of my pool.
Click to expand...
dfwnoob said:
Man, that Pentair kit must be ancient. They haven't used that logo in a long time. Either way, those are both extremely basic (OTO chlorine) test kits.

Definitely check out the Pool Care Basics page that @Texas Splash referenced above. It will give you the quick details on what you need to know. We can absolutely help you get you pool chemistry on the right track, but you will need to purchase a quality test kit since we need to know your CYA (Stabilizer) level. From there, the next step will be a SLAM. You can purchase either the Taylor K-2006C or the TFTestKits.net TF-100/TF-Pro. Both will get you the same quality Taylor reagents, but the TFTestKits models are a better deal. The TF-Pro model comes with a SmartStir by default, which is not required, but is strongly recommended since it helps eliminate testing errors. (If you go the Taylor route, you can pick up at Taylor SpeedStir, same thing).

"Re-fresh" granular chlorine appears to be Cal-Hypo. This is adding calcium to your water which will eventually become untenable. Similar to other powdered shocks and pucks which add CYA. This is why a good test kit is critical, we need to know what exactly you're dealing with.

For now, until you get a kit, I would add 5pmm worth of liquid chlorine a day. Once you work out your pool capacity, you can use the PoolMath app and the "Effects of Adding" feature to figure out how much LC equals 5ppm worth. As far as big box stores go, Walmart currently has the best deal on liquid chlorine; about ~$5.80/gallon.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much. I’ll order a proper test kit.
I have read pool care basics, but it even has a little bit of assumed knowledge.
I’ll get started with these steps and let y’all know when I get the test kit in.
 
dfwnoob said:
Man, that Pentair kit must be ancient. They haven't used that logo in a long time. Either way, those are both extremely basic (OTO chlorine) test kits.

Definitely check out the Pool Care Basics page that @Texas Splash referenced above. It will give you the quick details on what you need to know. We can absolutely help you get you pool chemistry on the right track, but you will need to purchase a quality test kit since we need to know your CYA (Stabilizer) level. From there, the next step will be a SLAM. You can purchase either the Taylor K-2006C or the TFTestKits.net TF-100/TF-Pro. Both will get you the same quality Taylor reagents, but the TFTestKits models are a better deal. The TF-Pro model comes with a SmartStir by default, which is not required, but is strongly recommended since it helps eliminate testing errors. (If you go the Taylor route, you can pick up at Taylor SpeedStir, same thing).

"Re-fresh" granular chlorine appears to be Cal-Hypo. This is adding calcium to your water which will eventually become untenable. Similar to other powdered shocks and pucks which add CYA. This is why a good test kit is critical, we need to know what exactly you're dealing with.

For now, until you get a kit, I would add 5pmm worth of liquid chlorine a day. Once you work out your pool capacity, you can use the PoolMath app and the "Effects of Adding" feature to figure out how much LC equals 5ppm worth. As far as big box stores go, Walmart currently has the best deal on liquid chlorine; about ~$5.80/gallon.
Click to expand...

So I told you I’m totally clueless. I went to pool math app.
My pool is 30,000 gallon, liquid chlorine is 10%, you said to add 5 ppm. It’s not telling me how much that is. What am I doing wrong?
 
In the PoolMath app, if you haven't already done so, go to "add pool" and fill in the 4 boxes under "Pool Information". Your type of sanitizer is bleach. Everything else is optional and can be added later as long as you uncheck "Log Weather Conditions" in the weather section.

Once the pool is added you should see FC (Free Chlorine) in the upper left of the home screen of the app. Tap on FC. In the second box down, put zero in the current FC box, and 5 in the Target FC box. In the next box down add your Bleach Chlorine %, and select 128 oz (as long as you are using gallon jugs). When I do all of that, I come up with 192 oz or 1.5 jugs of chlorine to add 5 ppm of chlorine.

You'll eventually want to do more with PoolMath, but that will get you started. Keep asking questions if things don't make sense, and watch the videos above and read through Pool School multiple times.
 
Ok, I got my test kit in. Y’all are so great for helping me. Here are my numbers:

30,000 gal pool
CC is .5
FC is 3
CH is 125 - But, this turned purple first instead of red. Should I redo that?
TA is 70
pH is 7.5
Br is 5
Now my CYA…I think it’s 30. The little black dot didn’t go away until the cylinder was full, but I kind of doubted myself. If that’s right, pool math is telling me to add.

We have been having to add water every day bc of a leak and our pool store being way behind. I’m reading that this would greatly affect CYA.

Can someone send me a pic of what stabilizer is?

Do all of my other numbers look good?

I’ve been adding a gallon of liquid chlorine a day. Do I keep doing that?
 
mmrambo said:
Can someone send me a pic of what stabilizer is?
Click to expand...
Cyanuric Acid / CYA / stabilizer / pool conditioner. The label may say any of those. Just make sure the ingredients are 100% Cyanuric Acid.

Here is Walmart's.
mmrambo said:
Do all of my other numbers look good?
Click to expand...
They DO. Except Br. You don't have a Bromine pool. Don't use the block/yellow test for FC. Use the powder test for FC.
mmrambo said:
I’ve been adding a gallon of liquid chlorine a day. Do I keep doing that?
Click to expand...
Now you follow the chart.

lc_chart.jpg

But the chart doesn't know you are losing 4ppm a day in July, or 1ppm a day in Nov, so it's up to you to think about what you need.

Minimum FC +
Recent daily loss +
1 or 2 insurance FC
-----------------------------‐--------
= Trouble Free Pool.

Minimum is lava. Dose everyday to still be free and clear above minimum at the next test time.
 
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The chart is for your FC (Free Chlorine) and based on your CYA.

Look at the chart for the row of 30 CYA. You want to be at FC of 4 to 6, 12 is the level if you need to kill algae via a SLAM.
 

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