Master Temp 400 ERR SFS Just the Sensor?

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W.J.Christy

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Bronze Supporter
Feb 17, 2022
391
Houston, Texas
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I have a Pentair Mastertemp 400 heater that was installed late 2021 early 2022. It has been turned on maybe a dozen times since it was installed. Went to turn it on today and I get the ERR SFS after about 2 mins of run time (probably less) then it got the point where it wouldn't try to ignite at all. It would just flash the error. Given the age and lack of time the heater has been run, I am leaning towards it being just the sensor and have ordered one from the jungle website. I also have a call into my PB who is going to see the if the warranty is still in effect and get pentair out if its still covered.

If the heater is out of warranty, what is the likelyhood that I am right and its just the sensor? Is there a way for me to put my boreoscope into the conbustion chamber through the flu to check for soot? If soot is the issue, what are my paths forward?
 
While running, press and hold the On button to display the exhaust temperature (Older Models).

The new models use the Menu to get the SFS.

Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:

  • Below 250 degrees...very low
  • 250 to 290 ..................low
  • 290 to 350.................acceptable
  • 350 to 480 ..................high
  • Above 480...................error/shutdown.

If the SFS reads 80, then flashes to 40, then back to 80, then the 80/40 reading and E05 indicate that the board is not getting a reading from the sensor.

Try reseating the connectors on the SFS.

Otherwise it's a bad sensor or damaged wires.

If the sensor and wiring are good, the board is probably bad.

Disconnect the sensor and check continuity across its terminals.

Resistance should be 3.5-4.0 megaohms.
 
The buttons on the panel seemed non responsive for whatever reason when i tried them. That and the error popped up immediately after it was given a heat command. Does the error disable the buttons on the panel?
 

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Got into the menu finally, temp climbed rapidly then shut down. I will check the wires shortly.

Side note, when the bypass valve was replaced last summer, the tech left all the u styl fasteners out of one side. Anyone know what size they are so i can order some more?
 
Any chance you can attach a picture of the fastener you speak of? Not understanding the U style fastener. Is it these?

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

--Jeff
 
Turbo1Ton said:
Any chance you can attach a picture of the fastener you speak of? Not understanding the U style fastener. Is it these?

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

--Jeff
Click to expand...
Those are the nut plates the side screws attach to.
 

Mastertemp 400 E05 error

Pool is just coming up on 1 year and the heater worked perfect all through last winter and heading into this one. Went to fire it up Monday and it kept killing after about 5 min and progressively got shorter on the time until shutdown. Was getting the E05 error. I ran it and checked the SFS temp...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
W.J.Christy said:
Got into the menu finally, temp climbed rapidly then shut down.
Click to expand...
Climbed to what temperature?

Can you show the whole system?

Do you have an external bypass?

If yes, is it closed?

What is the pump speed and flow rate?

What is the filter pressure?

Does the water temperature on the display also go up rapidly?

Remove the thermal regulator and test it in water that is 120 to 125 degrees to see if it opens.

When you remove the thermal regulator, take a picture looking into the hole and show the top part of the hole to see if the internal bypass disc is in place.

Run the heater without the thermal regulator in place to see what the Stack Flue Temperature goes to.

Can you show a picture looking into the heater inlet?


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In your other thread, you had a bad internal bypass; did that ever get fixed?

A different thread was about installing an external bypass; was that completed and is the bypass closed?

Below is the internal bypass disc, which should by visible when looking into the regulator tube.

1685197501951.png

img_20220626_130316_01-jpg.428743


Heater Bypass install, (Complete)

I have a Master Temp 400 and am getting back to the project of installing a bypass using the actuator port in the heater. One of the questions I have am pondering is if the onboard actuator control in the heater has a freeze control mode similar to the easy touch where it changes the actuator...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Pentair IC40 lights flashing

Ok so i have an issue woth my ic-40 that seems to have just started, the flow light is red and i get the railroad style red green flashing lights. If i turn everything off then back on again it seems to work fine. Any ideas? Not has been changed prior to this happening.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Alrighty, was cleaning everything pool related and it took some time to get back to this.

First off thank you for the replies. I am still waiting to hear from the pool builder about the warranty status of the heater and am hesitant to tear any further into it than i have to keep from voiding the warranty. I do have answers to some of the questions asked though
JamesW said:
Climbed to what temperature?
Click to expand...
Approx 480F in about 90 seconds
JamesW said:
Can you show the whole system?
Click to expand...
See below
JamesW said:
Do you have an external bypass?
Click to expand...
Yes.
JamesW said:
If yes, is it closed?
Click to expand...
It auto closes when a heat demand is made. The actuator is functional and I did close it it using the position switch in the back just to test to no effect.
JamesW said:
What is the pump speed and flow rate?
Click to expand...
Pump speed was varied between 2000 to 2800 rpm in an attempt to diagnose the issue. Flow rate was unknown at the time
JamesW said:
What is the filter pressure?
Click to expand...
Approx 5 psi which os typical when the bypass is closed. The elements where cleaned early last month as well.
JamesW said:
Does the water temperature on the display also go up rapidly?
Click to expand...
Yes
JamesW said:
Remove the thermal regulator and test it in water that is 120 to 125 degrees to see if it opens.

When you remove the thermal regulator, take a picture looking into the hole and show the top part of the hole to see if the internal bypass disc is in place.

Run the heater without the thermal regulator in place to see what the Stack Flue Temperature goes to.

Can you show a picture looking into the heater inlet?


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Click to expand...
If the warranty is no longer valid or is parts only i will go this route.
JamesW said:
In your other thread, you had a bad internal bypass; did that ever get fixed?
Click to expand...
Yes last summer.
JamesW said:
A different thread was about installing an external bypass; was that completed and is the bypass closed?
Click to expand...
Yes see attached pics for how its run.

Again, i appreciate all the replies and will be diving deeper into the heater if the warranty is up but I do worry (probably irrationally) they will deny service of they think i have been in there monkeying with things and feel it may be best to let them do their thing if I still have a warranty.
 

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