Pool Math says 40 lbs of CaCl

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bcm00re

Bronze Supporter
Nov 15, 2021
47
St. Louis, MO
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
According to Leslie's AccuBlue testing, my Calcium Hardness is 211ppm. TFP's Pool Math says I need to add 40 pounds of Calcium Chloride!! My local water is definitely on the hard side, so I'm wondering if I really need to add anything -- or just let it rise over time. If I do need to add, I am reading conflicting info (here) on if I can use ice melt. Lowes has a 50 pound bag that's 94% CaCl for like $20. I guess it depends what that other 6% is, but I don't know what is bad and what is acceptable. I have a new pool with a PeebleSheen finish that was done about 2 months ago.

On a side note (and in case there is interaction) my pool's CYA number is really low at just 17ppm so I need to raise that too. Looks like I can get a Clorox product at my local Walmart for that.

All my other results look good according to Pool Math -- except my chlorine is understandably high (6.55ppm) because I ran a Super Chlorinate from Wednesday night to Thursday night. According to AccuBlue my phosphates are high at 291ppm, but they didn't try to sell me anything (not even for the low CYA).
 
Do you have one of the recommended test kits, TF-Pro or Taylor K-2006C? Marketing hype may have you convinced that the AccuBlue is accurate. Which in the vast majority of tests they perform it is not accurate. Before I would add anything to your 2 month old pool, I would make sure with your own test kit. You spent $$$,$$$ on a new pool, get a recommended test kit for $$$. Then test your own pool water and be sure of your chemistry levels. No guessing or relying on a pool store.
 
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Thanks for the reply! I have a testing kit the pool installer gave me. The blue case says "poolPals" on it while the directions and bottles say "Oreq". Seems like the pH and FC numbers between my test and Leslie's usually agreed, so I didn't really think to question the results of either. I guess I will hold off anything beyond muriatic acid until I can get a proper test. I did already add about 12 lbs of Leslie's Alkalinity Up -- hopefully I won't regret that. I wish there were home-use digital/computer testers that provided accurate results; trying to match colors just seems so subjective to the engineer in me!
 
The pH test is the only test where matching colors is subjective. The other tests, except for CYA, are color change test. The FAS-DPD test for FC is a test where you add drops until the water changes from pink to clear. The TA test is a test where the sample water changes from green to red. The CH test is a test where the sample water changes from red to blue. The salt test is a test where the sample changes from yellow to brick red. For the CYA test, there isn't a color change. Instead, you are looking for the dot in the tube to disappear.
 
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I see -- thanks for the explanation! With my current test kit, the FC one is a color match for various shades of yellow which seems particularly difficult to me. The pH one isn't so bad really. I'll get one of the recommended kits ordered this weekend!
 
@Homebrewale
Are you talking about the Taylor K-2600 or the TF test kits? I ask because the latter ones appear to have the same "scale of yellow" comparator as my current kit. Thanks...
 
Each has the OTO free chlorine test. Because they are a color interpretation test, they have little value.

Included in each test is also the FAS/DPD free chlorine test. This is a drop based test that goes from red to clear as the endpoint.

The test kits from TFtestkits.net are the better value.
 
Gotcha -- thanks. Why do you say the TF test kits are a better value? I was actually leaning towards the K-2600C because I like the "tighter" pH scale. That said I am not seeing a K-2600C salt kit (and have a SWG pool).
 
bcm00re said:
Gotcha -- thanks. Why do you say the TF test kits are a better value? I was actually leaning towards the K-2600C because I like the "tighter" pH scale. That said I am not seeing a K-2600C salt kit (and have a SWG pool).
Click to expand...
The TF kit has more of the commonly used reagents and less of the stuff you don’t need to test often.
 
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Bperry said:
The TF kit has more of the commonly used reagents and less of the stuff you don’t need to test often.
Click to expand...
As an example, I still have some reagents from my original 2006C even 3 years later but I’ve refilled the FC and CYA portions a couple times at least. Maybe refilled the calcium hardness test once as well. I almost never use the pH acid demand reagent so those are still full from 3 years ago. If you have a really small pool and can’t afford to over/undershoot the pH then maybe those are helpful but my pool is. If enough that I can measure by the number of “glugs” I add to the water and get close enough. The pH will change anyway so there’s not much point in being super exact with it.
 
Bperry said:
The TF kit has more of the commonly used reagents and less of the stuff you don’t need to test often.
Click to expand...
A couple examples:

The K-2006C comes with only 70 FAS/DPD (FC) tests. Even the base TF-100 comes with 100. This is the test you'll do most frequently.

The K-2006C comes with 144 Calcium Hardness tests. You really only need to test CH once or twice a month. That gives you enough reagents for 5-10 years. The reagents will be expired well before you have chance to use them up.

I think the K-2006C is designed for professionals managing multiple pools. The TF-based kits are designed for the single pool owner.

You can add the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit to the K-2006C.

I (and many others) highly recommend the Smart Stir or Speed Stir. It will make testing easier and more consistent.
 
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Thanks again for the advice to wait before adding anything! After testing with my TF-100 test kit, it looks like only my CYA is off. It's really low -- as in I could still see my black dot with the tube completely filled -- which explains why I'm running my SWG higher/longer than expected. My chlorine is only 1.5 despite running my SWG for 12 hours a day at 50% (and I have a 40k gallon T-15 cell with a pool that's approx. 18k gallon). Grabbing some Clorox Stabilizer tonight!
 
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