empty salt H20 pool down clean out vs washing machine. hose vs 1.5" vs 2" hose

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This indicates that it is producing.

It looks like the salinity is low.

Are you 100% sure that the new cell is a 940?

If it is, the salinity is probably correct.

Test the salinity 2 different reliable ways.

20230415_124324-jpg.482964
 
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  • Test FC, pH and TA - post the results to PoolMath
  • Post here stating what the pH was, how much you added and what PoolMath estimated the new pH would be.
  • Also, how much PoolMath estimated the TA would drop from that addition.
I'm trying to get a better feeling for how your TA is trending.
Every couple times you test pH, also test TA.

  • Add ONE more bag of salt.
  • Brush until dissolved and re-test salt the following day.
  • Report what your k-1766 results are and those reported by the control panel.
As @JamesW stated, the SWG is producing - but it is sensing the salt is low.
Look on the cell itself for the model and serial number - post those so he can see if you really have what you think you have.
 
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Never rely on any single salt test regardless of how reliable you think it is.

I never believe any salinity test until I have at least 1 and preferably two different ways to verify that it is accurate.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
You got it backwards- always round up if between two marks.
Your cya counts as 40.
Also, not sure if you’re doing this but, when adding the logs to poolmath later you can tell it what time/day so it’s logged correctly.
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yes, I put the time of day if logged later, thx. great to know about the CYA. last thing I want to do is add too much! I go slow with CYA

Also, interestingly, when I looked at my panel today it was saying 2700 ppm, too, but then was saying 2600 in the diagnostics I later sent
 
JamesW said:
This indicates that it is producing.

It looks like the salinity is low.

Are you 100% sure that the new cell is a 940?

If it is, the salinity is probably correct.

Test the salinity 2 different reliable ways.

20230415_124324-jpg.482964
Click to expand...
yes, I'm double checking and it's a 940. I'm attaching a pic. what's another reliable way to test other than my testing with my kit which it seems may ot be reliable 🤔. I could go to pool store but I know Gene would shout no to that. I could also wait for pool guy to come Thursday
 

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proavia said:
  • Test FC, pH and TA - post the results to PoolMath
  • Post here stating what the pH was, how much you added and what PoolMath estimated the new pH would be.
  • Also, how much PoolMath estimated the TA would drop from that addition.
I'm trying to get a better feeling for how your TA is trending.
Every couple times you test pH, also test TA.

  • Add ONE more bag of salt.
  • Brush until dissolved and re-test salt the following day.
  • Report what your k-1766 results are and those reported by the control panel.
As @JamesW stated, the SWG is producing - but it is sensing the salt is low.
Look on the cell itself for the model and serial number - post those so he can see if you really have what you think you have.
Click to expand...
I think I got that all, but I'm confused about adding more salt and nervous about that cuz I tested 3200 at one point and if that was right, that would put me at 3600, over the limit of what my panel can handle. Earlier Mcdragger88 said not to add more and let the tech handle checking it and u agreed. If now it's reading low and I haven't tested with 2 or more valid ways, wouldn't it be safe to wait to test or for tech? I could see it being safe to add half a bag, which I already have open, too, but I'm also fine with waiting while I focus more on TA right now
proavia said:
Sound advice. Best to wait for the tech while manually chlorinating and doing the necessary testing.
Click to expand...
Also, when I put down h20 temp, am I putting down water sensor temp, not cell temp, right?
 
proavia said:
As @JamesW stated, the SWG is producing - but it is sensing the salt is low.
Look on the cell itself for the model and serial number - post those so he can see if you really have what you think you have.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure if this is the serial # but if any more info is needed re this cell I can do it in the daylight.
 

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JamesW said:
Never rely on any single salt test regardless of how reliable you think it is.

I never believe any salinity test until I have at least 1 and preferably two different ways to verify that it is accurate.
Click to expand...
what's another way to test that it's accurate or in this case r u trusting the panel more? this is 1 test that seems pretty hard to mess up, unless I get the amount of h20 wrong in the test vile, meaning the top of the water line can curve.
 
One 40 pound bag of salt will raise the salt level about 330ppm in your pool volume.
Add one bag of salt now.
Brush until dissolved.
Check the salt lefel tomorrow with your test kit and on the controller.

The salt test can be off by 200. The cell salt reading can be off at least that much.
As long as the cell is happy, it will produce chlorine.

What is your current TA?
What is your current pH?
What is your current FC?
What is your current CYA?

You need to get CYA up to 70.
Remember, when doing the CYA test, you can't determine a reading between the lines.
There is no "35" - always round up.
 
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For TA do I count the # of drops when it first turns red or when it doesn't turn brighter red. At 9 it was red. At 10 it turned a little brighter red.

I'm in the middle of testing and posting now.
Gene, u may not like this but I have more on my plate for the next 2 weeks. I'm doing my best and much better than before. I'm happy with my progress. maybe slow, but much better than before, I think. :oops: I appreciate your help!
 
outdoorsgal said:
For TA do I count the # of drops when it first turns red or when it doesn't turn brighter red. At 9 it was red. At 10 it turned a little brighter red.
Click to expand...
www.troublefreepool.com

Total Alkalinity

A drop-based test used to measure the alkalinity in water. Alkalinity helps serve as a … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Thx Mknauss! Gene, I believe you said wait until 7.8 to drop pH to 7.2 again but the app said to add now so I added (even at 7.5). Is it preferable that I wait til 7.8 or listen to the ap and keep getting it down to 7.2 frequently? I wasn't quite sure if it's telling me to get it down to 7.2 cuz 7.2 is the target I put in poolmath or if poolmath is smart enough that it knows I need to bring it down to 7.2.
 
The app is a tool. You must tell it what you want to do. It is not 'telling' you to add anything. You can change the Goal levels. You should not mess with pH until it gets to 8. Then lower to 7.6.
 
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mknauss said:
The app is a tool. You must tell it what you want to do. It is not 'telling' you to add anything. You can change the Goal levels. You should not mess with pH until it gets to 8. Then lower to 7.6.
Click to expand...
Is there some kind of best practice with being told different advice? If I am understanding correctly, I think Gene is telling me to bump from 7.8 to 7.2 until my CSI is where I want it to be. These are very different. Or are you liking where my TA/CSI is at or that it'll get there, maybe just slower? I do like the idea of not having to track pH every day if I don't have to but whatever the TFP "way" is is fine, too. thx!
 

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