Jandy valve connection options

miamicuse

Well-known member
May 26, 2019
126
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
I have a leak on the pump's suction inlet side.

For years I have periodic leaks on the pump's inlet and outlet connections, sometimes it leaks, sometimes it self corrects then come back a year later. Often times I would have to take the connections apart and put in a new male adapter and used liberal amounts of tape and pipe sealant to get seal, only to come back with a new leak after a few months.

Finally, the last time I had a leak on the outlet side, I tried a different fitting. Instead of thread in a 2" PVC male adapter, I bought a high temp union that seals with a gasket. It has not leaked for over 6 months now, and if it does, I can easily take it apart at the union and tighten it.

So now the inlet side is leaking again, and my plan is to use a high temp union there as well.

IMG_20230322_164411.jpg

However, if I am redoing the piping there, may be I can redo the upstream connection to the Jandy valve too, which is a 2" male/female threaded connection. That connection may also leak one day. The male adapter was solvent welded into the valve outlet port, then a female adapter connection to it. If this connection is to leak, I will have to connect with a new female adapter fitting, then solvent weld all new pipe and fittings to the pump's inlet correct?

IMG_20230322_164408.jpg

So I am thinking, if I can find a way to use a high temp union there I can simplify this connection for the future. I understand that the Jandy valve port I can solvent weld a new 2.5" PVC fitting to it on the outside. If this is correct then I can cut the existing male adapter off flush with the valve port. Solvent weld a 2.5" coupling onto it, insert a 2.5" SLIP X 2" FIP bushing into the other end of the coupling, then I can connect to it a 2" high temp union on this connection as well. Will this work? That would allow me to get rid of the union in the middle of the vertical pipe too if I have a union on each end of the connections.
 
I have a leak on the pump's suction inlet side.

For years I have periodic leaks on the pump's inlet and outlet connections, sometimes it leaks, sometimes it self corrects then come back a year later. Often times I would have to take the connections apart and put in a new male adapter and used liberal amounts of tape and pipe sealant to get seal, only to come back with a new leak after a few months.

Finally, the last time I had a leak on the outlet side, I tried a different fitting. Instead of thread in a 2" PVC male adapter, I bought a high temp union that seals with a gasket. It has not leaked for over 6 months now, and if it does, I can easily take it apart at the union and tighten it.

So now the inlet side is leaking again, and my plan is to use a high temp union there as well.

View attachment 478383

However, if I am redoing the piping there, may be I can redo the upstream connection to the Jandy valve too, which is a 2" male/female threaded connection. That connection may also leak one day. The male adapter was solvent welded into the valve outlet port, then a female adapter connection to it. If this connection is to leak, I will have to connect with a new female adapter fitting, then solvent weld all new pipe and fittings to the pump's inlet correct?

View attachment 478393

So I am thinking, if I can find a way to use a high temp union there I can simplify this connection for the future. I understand that the Jandy valve port I can solvent weld a new 2.5" PVC fitting to it on the outside. If this is correct then I can cut the existing male adapter off flush with the valve port. Solvent weld a 2.5" coupling onto it, insert a 2.5" SLIP X 2" FIP bushing into the other end of the coupling, then I can connect to it a 2" high temp union on this connection as well. Will this work? That would allow me to get rid of the union in the middle of the vertical pipe too if I have a union on each end of the connections.
That will work, but you would probably have to move the pump back a bit. Hayward (as well as all other pump manufacturers) recommends at least 5X the inside diameter of the pipe as a straight run into the pump. That would be 10" for your system. While you may not have the room for that much pipe, virtually any amount beyond that 90 right in front of the pump is an improvement. Can't see the rest of your system to determine how much work that would be.
 
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