Saltron Mini - How often to open the cover and "let the CCs out"?

RDspaguy said:

I normally would not recommend such long cycles on the main pump for numerous reasons, but as a once-in-a-while thing it would be fine.

Click to expand...

RDspaguy said:

Frankly, I'm not sure it's worth the expense under those circumstances but it's your money, if you want to try it out go for it. Most systems turn off the ozone if jets are on or for 30 minutes any time a button is pushed, so you'll have trouble running it during use anyway.

Click to expand...

Great spa-tech knowledge here, would have been a tragedy if I had implemented this and then found the ozone only ran for 30 minutes instead of the 12 hours.

RDspaguy said:

Now you're asking science questions to a repair man. I don't know why the depletion slows as the ppm drops or nearly stops at 0.5, I just know what I find in my water and read online. Maybe it's due to less than 100% exposure to the ozone.

Click to expand...

Ok, thanks very much for that feedback! Might be a logarithmic reduction curve due to needing physical proximity between the ozone and remaining ever reducing population of Chlorine.

RDspaguy said:

Ozone output must be compatible with the injection system or problems can arise. I recommend whatever it started with, as that's what the system is designed for.

Click to expand...

RDspaguy said:

Tubs that use the main pump for ozone injection are impossible to know flow rates, and therefore exposure turnover rates, without installing an inline flow meter. Most are not very efficient compared to a 24/7 and are mostly there as a selling point since major brands with 24/7 systems make a big deal of it. How it will effect yours I do not know, but most people with tubs like this never notice it fail.

Click to expand...

Cool. Next tub will be a 24/7... I've just sunk 100+ hours into sanding and re-finishing this one and 2/3 of everything has been replaced now so I'll try to enjoy this one for as long as I can!

Many thanks for clarifying your comment on the 0.5FC.

I ended up buying a CMP DEL AOP SPA widget, which allows for a bypass after the heater to put water through Ozone and then UV for the benefits of both plus the ·OH you get when they are combined. I am hoping this will be a kick-butt after-party chloramine buster, will post results as I collect data in the future.

To prep for this install, I'm purging my spa with Ahhsome (actual Ahhsome gel). When I got the spa 6 months ago I run a few purges through it using the local version of the product and it was crystal clear. So that was baseline.

In the last 6 months I initially used it a lot without any sanitizer (just dumping and refilling clean water). This clearly built up a heck of a lot of biofilm as I'm on my 6th purge using Ahhsome at the moment (refill with fresh water, add SLAM level chlorine, add 1 level Tbsp of Ahhsome for the 1900L/500Gal spa, run jets 30 mins, wipe down, drain with bilge pump while rinsing and wiping sides, repeat).

My question - I've now churned through 6 x 1900L (500Gal) of water purging. I see no signs of the brown gunk letting up with each purge. Do I actually need to drain and refill or can I add a half dose every 30 minutes while running jets constantly, maintaining about an inch of foam on top? It seems the Ahhsome stops foaming after 30 minutes, maybe it's "used up" and I can just add another (I have read) half dose and re-foam? Without dumping the water in between.

Thanks. That worked great I'm using a shop vac to vacuum up all the brown bits / gunk as it appears. After another 4 lots of teaspoon amounts every 30 minutes or so I seem to have got to a level where a new teaspoon only creates snow white foam. In total it took about 10 rounds, I honestly was starting to feel like I'd never get on top of it!