Dug up a leak and this is what I found. Suggestion on best way to repair? I'm thinking cutting out the elbow and cutting back the lines enough to fit a coupling on each side of the new elbow. I'm not sure if that's the best way or not. The last leak I dug up the repair guy charged me the same amount even though I had located the leak and dug up the pvc where it needed to be repaired. It was some kind of weird junction intersection thing and I was new to diy pvc repairs. In hindsight I could have completed the repair myself.
Cracked elbow leading to waterfall
- Thread starter Fae
- Start date
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,454
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I think you're on the right track, using a couple of couplers and a new elbow. The biggest challenge will be digging out enough dirt so you can flex the pipe to make the connections.
Working with PVC is fairly easy if you haven't done it before. Here's an article that may provide some tips.
www.troublefreepool.com
Working with PVC is fairly easy if you haven't done it before. Here's an article that may provide some tips.
PVC Repair - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
If the viewpoint is a hole that's going to be filled in, the easiest fix is 4 elbows plus 3 short pipe sections. Cut the cracked elbow out, expose enough of both pipes to put elbows facing out (toward the camera). Then the other 2 elbows and connecting pipe can go straight on (making a U) without needing to flex either pipe. That's what I've done for repairs when pipe movement was limited -- just one more fitting (you'll otherwise need 1 elbow and 2 couplers), and you don't have to dig the existing pipes as far back to make room for couplers.
A key tip with PVC -- don't assume any exact measurements from dry-fitting; the pipe will go deeper into the fitting when you're actually gluing. Measure the inside of the fitting to the stop and add that as needed.
A key tip with PVC -- don't assume any exact measurements from dry-fitting; the pipe will go deeper into the fitting when you're actually gluing. Measure the inside of the fitting to the stop and add that as needed.
If that was dirt I would not hesitate to dig it out enough for the repair, but that's concrete.
I like this idea and it would be the least amount of concrete "chipping" for the repair. I wasn't sure if there was a reason "not" to do it this way. Unless someone says it's gonna blow up my pool, this is probably the route I will take.
and thank you guys for taking the time to reply. I just needed some reassurance I wasn't doing something wayyyyyy wrong. It's how I roll lol.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,454
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Ah, I didn't realize that. A masonry chisel works well on poured concrete. Good luck with the repair!