Yet another post about white splotches on a new pool surface, but I added Calcium Chloride

bagsofcole

Active member
Nov 27, 2019
28
Wesley Chapel, FL
Pool Size
8500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-30
Hi All, our 8000 gal., blue, quartz finished pool was completed over the summer and for the first 4 weeks as instructed, we took our water to the PB and they told us our water was great. Our house has a water softener that I installed in time to fill this pool, since our city water is hard but otherwise fairly balanced, this is our 4th pool with this water supply. We use the TF-100 Test Kit and the Pool Math app suggested by this community. After the 4 mandatory weeks of the PB testing, they released it to me, I noticed the CH was very low, so I added 22 lbs of Leslie's "Hardness Plus" calcium chloride as directed and brushed it around. About a week later, the spots started to appear. This is about 6 weeks after the pool was filled. Below are my weekly readings, and I only added muriadic acid until the chlorinator was installed, then also added dry stabilizer and calcium chloride as calculated by the pool math app.

It goes without saying, our PB is refusing to work with us on an acid bath, or any remedy to clear the spots, they're telling us it's scale. Told us our CH was over 500, even though my test and Leslie's puts it right at 300. They sold us $80/10lbs worth of Jack's #2 copper and scale stuff, and gave us polar opposite directions on how to apply it compared to the instructions on the bucket. Also said it will be good for our heat pump, even though according to "Jack's" instruction is to isolate the heater, but of course they didn't install a heater bypass.

So do you think all this is because I added the calcium chloride? What if I didn't sweep it around enough?

The PB gave us test trips to use, so while the water testing was under their care, I didn't use the TF-100
Week 1
FC 4
pH 8.4
TA 180
CYA 0
Added acid and tabs

Week 2

FC 7
pH 7
TA 150
CYA 0
added acid
Week 3

FC 7
pH 7.8
TA 120
CYA 0
added acid
Week 4

FC 4
pH 6.8
TA 30

Then they added the SWG

Week 5
FC 3
CC 0.3
pH 7.9
TA 70
CH 125
CYA 50
Salt 3300
Temp 82
CSI -0.38

added acid, dry stabalizer, and calcium chloride

Week 6
FC 8
CC 0.5
pH 7.9
TA 80
CH 325
CYA 65
Salt 3800
Temp 86
CSI 0.10
added acid and dry stabalizer

Week 7
FC5.5
CC 0.5
pH 8.2
TA 100
CH 250
CYA 80
Salt 3800
Temp 84
CSI 0.34
 

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Scale would look consistent on the pool surface and not streaky the way your white spots look.



 
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I don't have an answer for you, but I mix my calcium hardness increaser in a small bucket. I put pool water in it and mix with a PVC pipe. Then I spread in pool as I walk the length of the pool. It does warm up some, but is fine if you aware of it.
 
As with @ajw22, the splotches seem to indicate some kind of major localized imbalance, such as adding acid which columnizes; but the thing to keep in mind is that EVERYTHING you add to a pool is heavier than water so as @mfifield01 said, the solution is dilution.

When I add either muriatic acid (to lower alkalinity) or Snow Joe pellets (to raise calcium) or CYA granules, I greatly dilute in 5 gallon buckets of pool water.
  • Muriatic acid = I generally put a cup at a time in about five gallons of pool water
  • Snow Joe = I generally put from a pound to no more than five pounds at a time in about five gallons of pool water
  • CYA granules = I generally put no more than about a pound or so at a time in five gallons of pool water
I could use 5 gallons of well water but it's easier and quicker to just dip a set of five gallon buckets into the pool to gather up the water.
 
Thanks all for the replys. So we’re on day four of the zero alkalinity no drain acid bath and the freeze protection turned on last night. How bad is it for our heater and can I do anything to slow or stop the damage? I can’t get a tight seal around the heater inlet to flush it out with water and it’s Christmas Eve, so can’t hire anyone today. Is our only choice to reverse the acid treatment in the pool? Doesn’t seem to be helping anyway.
 
Thanks all for the replys. So we’re on day four of the zero alkalinity no drain acid bath and the freeze protection turned on last night. How bad is it for our heater and can I do anything to slow or stop the damage? I can’t get a tight seal around the heater inlet to flush it out with water and it’s Christmas Eve, so can’t hire anyone today. Is our only choice to reverse the acid treatment in the pool? Doesn’t seem to be helping anyway.
Low pH is never good for equipment however if you have a heat pump, as your signature says, it is not as damaging as in a gas heater. Low pH in a gas heater with a copper heat exchanger will damage it. A heat pump does not use copper heat exchangers.

At this point you are stuck between low pH damage and freeze damage. With the low pH water already in your equipment there is no way to undo that.

I would put raise the pH of your pool back to into the 7s ASAP and then reevaluate where you are.
 
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Low pH is never good for equipment however if you have a heat pump, as your signature says, it is not as damaging as in a gas heater. Low pH in a gas heater with a copper heat exchanger will damage it. A heat pump does not use copper heat exchangers.

At this point you are stuck between low pH damage and freeze damage. With the low pH water already in your equipment there is no way to undo that.

I would put raise the pH of your pool back to into the 7s ASAP and then reevaluate where you are.
Thanks. We don’t have to really worry about freeze damage, it’s already over 32 this morning and will barely dip into it for another night or two in Fl and it will be back up to 60s and 70s. Just wondering my at this point if we continue with the process or reverse it as ajw22 suggests.

I rinsed out the heater the best I could from both directions but can’t get a good seal so it won’t push the water through from end to end.
 
Low pH is never good for equipment however if you have a heat pump, as your signature says, it is not as damaging as in a gas heater. Low pH in a gas heater with a copper heat exchanger will damage it. A heat pump does not use copper heat exchangers.

At this point you are stuck between low pH damage and freeze damage. With the low pH water already in your equipment there is no way to undo that.

I would put raise the pH of your pool back to into the 7s ASAP and then reevaluate where you are.
And yes, it’s a heat pump. I was looking inside the heat pump and I’m trying to understand how it heats the water. It appears a copper tube about 1/2” in diameter is running inside a coil of 1-1/2” diameter PVC. So the inner copper is the hot/high pressure side of the refrigerant lines?

I guess what I’m thinking is there’s no extra small metal parts in this heat exchange, is that what you’re also trying to explain to me?
 
This is what a gas heat exchangers looks like. Lots more copper area to corrode.

If your HP refrigerant line eventually pops a leak it can me because of the low pH event.

Heater_Jandy_JXI_cutaway.png
 
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This is what a gas heat exchangers looks like. Lots more copper area to corrode.

If your HP refrigerant line eventually pops a leak it can me because of the low pH event.

Heater_Jandy_JXI_cutaway.png
Ok makes sense. Thanks. We’re going to move forward with the treatment but with the breaker off.
 

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