Draining pool

Removing only about half the water would bring your CH down to an acceptable level. That would bring your salt down to about 2350, also acceptable. Tile blasting can be done without draining the pool. Tile work could also be done without draining the pool all the way down, if the contractor was up to the challenge. So technically you don't have to drain the pool completely. Fool around with the calculators in Pool Math and you'll see what I mean.

Draining a pool comes with risks. The water is part of the structure. It's weight and pressure, or rather removing it all, can affect your plaster. That's more true of older plaster, but even newish plaster that has not been maintained properly can be damaged by removing the water. Mine was ruined by that, and it was only about four years old. Primarily due to really poor pool water maintenance before I owned the house, and a really bad acid wash, but the missing water contributed. Also, a pool can float right out of the ground when it's even partially empty. Do you know where your water table is?

Short version: the longer a pool is empty the greater the odds something bad can happen. Others here know more about that than I do, but personally, I'd never drain my pool if I didn't have to. I thought I wasn't going to, ever, but my CH got away from me, so I replaced 3K. It was only 2/3 full for a few hours, but even that made me nervous. I'm sure some pools can go many weeks without water without any issue. The problem is, you'll only know for sure how yours will be affected afterwards!
 
A have a bubble cover that is 40x20 never used it. What are you thinking about using it for?
I meant a solid cover that could be used to protect the finish from the sun while the water level is lowered.
the solar cover is not likely to be large enough if it is only the size of the inside of the pool.
 
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Removing only about half the water would bring your CH down to an acceptable level. That would bring your salt down to about 2350, also acceptable. Tile blasting can be done without draining the pool. Tile work could also be done without draining the pool all the way down, if the contractor was up to the challenge. So technically you don't have to drain the pool completely. Fool around with the calculators in Pool Math and you'll see what I mean.

Draining a pool comes with risks. The water is part of the structure. It's weight and pressure, or rather removing it all, can affect your plaster. That's more true of older plaster, but even newish plaster that has not been maintained properly can be damaged by removing the water. Mine was ruined by that, and it was only about four years old. Primarily due to really poor pool water maintenance before I owned the house, and a really bad acid wash, but the missing water contributed. Also, a pool can float right out of the ground when it's even partially empty. Do you know where your water table is?

Short version: the longer a pool is empty the greater the odds something bad can happen. Others here know more about that than I do, but personally, I'd never drain my pool if I didn't have to. I thought I wasn't going to, ever, but my CH got away from me, so I replaced 3K. It was only 2/3 full for a few hours, but even that made me nervous. I'm sure some pools can go many weeks without water without any issue. The problem is, you'll only know for sure how yours will be affected afterwards!
I removed half 2 years ago. Seems to me when the salt level goes high above 2000 ppm, then we need to add more acid and chlorine than normal. Right now i have to add 1 gallon chlorine every other day. Half a gallon acid every other day, and have been doing since salt level reach 2000. Before the rise in salt it was 1 gallon every 4-5 days, and quarter gallon acid once per week.
So that is why i want to start fresh.
As far as the pool coming out of ground, im told by contractor he has never seen that happen. Praying it never happens here as well. I do not know the water table. Now you have me concerned.
 
Come to think of it when my pool was built it sat empty for some time before the water was added because i paid a contractor to stain the coping. thus delaying my initial fill by at least a few days. So what would be the difference if i drained it now and let it sit?
 
Seems to me when the salt level goes high above 2000 ppm, then we need to add more acid and chlorine than normal.
@mknauss, what do you think about that. It's news to me... Marty, you must have read my mind as I was typing!
Now you have me concerned.
One way to avoid the concern altogether is to do a no-drain exchange. The level of the water never drops, but there's a way to wrangle the bad out while the good comes in. You'll use more water to do it, but water is cheaper than a catastrophe. Now the chances of your pool floating are very slim, especially at the end of summer. But slim is not none, so a little due diligence is in order. Call your local public works department. If they don't know the local water table, then maybe they'll know who does. Phone calls are even cheaper than water!

No drain exchange is a few paragraphs down the page. Though I don't think you can ever get down to zero salt with that method.

Before the rise in salt it was 1 gallon every 4-5 days
Another solution is to buy a salt water chlorine generator and convert your pool to a salt water pool. You will absolutely LOVE the convenience, and the feel of the water, and you can stop thinking about how much chlorine to pour in. SWGs require around 3000ppm salt, so In your pool you'd only need to exchange about a third of the water. I'm not sure anyone has done the math since "inflation," but not that long ago the long-term total cost of a SWG is about the same as the cost of the liquid chlorine you'd buy if you didn't have one. Except you won't have to lug it from the store anymore!

With an SWG, your salt level will accumulate less, because it's the liquid chlorine's byproduct that is adding salt. Muriatic does, too, but you'd be halving the source. I use a lot of acid but never have too much salt. In fact I have to add some every so often.
 
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Salinity in the pool water has no effect on pH, TA, or FC levels.
I remember we had this same discusion a few years ago, so its probably the change in temperature causing the increase in demand. Understand that my wife has a friend that services pools, and she tells him about our pool. He lives a few hours from us, yet he insist that our water is bad. Its too bad for me, because she won't lift a finger to help.
 
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@mknauss, what do you think about that. It's news to me... Marty, you must have read my mind as I was typing!

One way to avoid the concern altogether is to do a no-drain exchange. The level of the water never drops, but there's a way to wrangle the bad out while the good comes in. You'll use more water to do it, but water is cheaper than a catastrophe. Now the chances of your pool floating are very slim, especially at the end of summer. But slim is not none, so a little due diligence is in order. Call your local public works department. If they don't know the local water table, then maybe they'll know who does. Phone calls are even cheaper than water!

No drain exchange is a few paragraphs down the page. Though I don't think you can ever get down to zero salt with that method.


Another solution is to buy a salt water chlorine generator and convert your pool to a salt water pool. You will absolutely LOVE the convenience, and the feel of the water, and you can stop thinking about how much chlorine to pour in. SWGs require around 3000ppm salt, so In your pool you'd only need to exchange about a third of the water. I'm not sure anyone has done the math since "inflation," but not that long ago the long-term total cost of a SWG is about the same as the cost of the liquid chlorine you'd buy if you didn't have one. Except you won't have to lug it from the store anymore!

With an SWG, your salt level will accumulate less, because it's the liquid chlorine's byproduct that is adding salt. Muriatic does, too, but you'd be halving the source. I use a lot of acid but never have too much salt. In fact I have to add some every so often.
Seriously I am considering that option again. Especially if it means draining the pool less often.
 
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its probably the change in temperature causing the increase in demand
FC levels and acid demand vary a great deal throughout the year, definitely due to air and water temperatures, along with the amount of sunlight on the water.

Especially if it means draining the pool less often.
We'd have to do some math on that. One of your driving water replacement forces is your CH level. That's coming in from the fill water. I have the same issue. I greatly reduced CH-rise by filling my pool only with the water from my water softener (near-zero CH). I've only had to exchange once since I started doing that, just this year, after about four years I think.

Even if you can control the salt level, you'll have to do something about that CH, too, to minimize water exchanges.
 
FC levels and acid demand vary a great deal throughout the year, definitely due to air and water temperatures, along with the amount of sunlight on the water.


We'd have to do some math on that. One of your driving water replacement forces is your CH level. That's coming in from the fill water. I have the same issue. I greatly reduced CH-rise by filling my pool only with the water from my water softener (near-zero CH). I've only had to exchange once since I started doing that, just this year, after about four years I think.

Even if you can control the salt level, you'll have to do something about that CH, too, to minimize water exchanges.
Figures there is always something. So if I stay with liquid chlorine and acid. Ill be draining my pool due to salt levels and Calcium Hardness. With chlorine generator ill be draining due to Calcium Hardness. Either way the water will be high in salt which is bad for my lawn.
 

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There are mobile RO filtration systems that can be brought to your home. I think they'll get rid of the salt, though it's not clear what they do with the stuff they suck out of your pool. Might be worth a call to see if there is one that can service your area. Here's an example, and they're kinda close to you. Maybe they could do it. Or know who could.


My city doesn't want my pool water anywhere either, though they told me I could let it drain to an empty field. Which I happen to have behind my house. Anything like that you could use?
Not finding any reverse osmosis pkaces near Apple Valley
 
Either way the water will be high in salt which is bad for my lawn.
Maybe you need to work from another angle. If dumping salt on the lawn turns out to be the absolute only option, and it kills the lawn, then get rid of the lawn. Put in something artificial. Or a grass or ground cover that can take it. Or a rock zen garden, or a menagerie of potted plants that would be "above the fray" and survive over the barren salt flat. Just thinkin' outside the box. That idea is inspired by my own garden. I fought gophers for years. Then I got rid of the plants they liked, left the ones they didn't, and filled in the gaps with ceramic and concrete planters. Solved for gophers and it looks great. Not having to mow lawn is not the worst thing!
 
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I think there are RO systems you can install on site. I have no idea if they could handle a pool's worth of water on a regular basis, or what they cost, but that might be something to look at. And as I mentioned, you could solve, or greatly minimize, the CH problem with a water softener. Some here install dedicated ones just for their pool. And like I said, I've only had to exchange water once in four years, and I run an SWG and have never had to exchange due to high salt.

I plan to be more proactive and exchange a bit every spring, instead of letting it build up. That might be as little as 1000 gallons a pop, maybe less. And I'm currently modifying my fill system to possibly eliminate some of my CH-rise. I'll write that up when I'm done with it.
 
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