Need to SLAM...or nuke pool

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C

chunky

0
Dec 16, 2017
46
Mesa/AZ
Pool Size
33000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
Autopilot Digital Nano+ PPC2
The past few weeks I've been fighting algae, to the point were it's slimy. Perhaps my first mistake...with cost of tabs thru the roof I thought I would manage with liquid. Seemed fine at first, pool always looked good...but,

For the smart people out there...and tell me if I'm wrong. I tested CYA and nothing. It then dawned on me the tabs did have conditioner built in, so I lost that effect over time? I generally tested 50-60 CYA level, perhaps 80 being tops at one time, but not now zip, nada.

I can add a gal of CL in AM, and get a zero reading by that afternoon. I'm in AZ. Pool in full sun all day. Is it safe to assume that with depletion of CYA my cl is getting eaten and depleted so fast I can't keep up? At the moment, I am adding CYA to pool. Will test later today...shooting for normal level. Also pushing PH down to about 7.2...my pool typically runs to the high side.

I guess question is...am I chasing the correct ghost? Get CYA up. Push PH down. Then blow it up. Sweep, backwash, enjoy?

33K gal, pebbletec pool.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared
Add test kit info to your signature - along with manufacturers and model numbers of equipment.
What model Pool Pilot?

If you have algae, follow the SLAM Process.
Dont "blow it up" - follow the process.
No short cuts.
 
Flying Tivo said:
How are you testing your pool water? Test Kits Compared if you have one of this can you post full test results?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Using CYA with the black dot test. May take sample to pool store later. I have a Taylor kit. DPD 1 and 3 tab CL test. Again...registers nothing and didn't change complete/ free. I also have a HTH set I'll compare from time to time. PH are similar results. CL registering zippo on both. Haven't tested total Alkalinity, but I don't think that's my problem.

I added another quart of Muriatic about an hour ago. Should be PH about 7.2-7.4 now. Still dissolving some CYA. Have about 6#'s in. May need 8, if I had none and shooting for min of 30...based on typical instructions.

My bigger question is, do I get a minimum CYA level so I don't burn off CL so fast. I don't want to SLAM before I get some CYA to moderate UV effect. We are still high sun, 106 today. The SLAM process suggests it raises CYA itself?..so go for 30 CYA and 6 FC per Samming chart? I'm using liquid CL.

Earlier this year I was high on Phosphates and knocked those down. Wife said pool never looked so good. Fast forward to today. As mentioned prior....I may have overlooked the UV effect at baking off the Chlorine and couldn't keep up. Been chasing with CL for about 3-4 weeks and it's apparent I'm deficient elsewhere and CYA level is my guess.
 
mknauss said:
Read Ammonia - Further Reading

If your CYA went to zero when using trichlor, likely bacteria infected the pool water and consumed the CyA leaving ammonia in your water. It will take bleach to remove it.
Click to expand...
I wasn't using trichlor...as mentioned. Perhaps stupidly and stubbornly, inflationary prices on Tabs ****** me off, so in my "it's the principal of it attitude", I quit using tabs and went exclusively to managing pool with liquid. I had not thought to check CYA levels prior, assuming I had it. That may have been a mistake and CL is dissipating at a very fast degree given our environment.
 
Test for Ammonia first per mknauss's post. If there isn't any...

You need to add some CYA directly to get the pool up to 30. Buy dry CYA (called stabilizer or conditioner) at Walmart, Amazon, pool store, etc. Use pool math to determine how much to bring it up 10 ppm (in case your CYA is currently 20 and just not registering) and put it in using the sock method. With the sock method (search on this site if needed) it will register pretty quickly (like the next day). If still not showing up, add another 10. Repeat. If you get to that point, it should definitely be showing up.

Alternatively, you can use liquid stabilizer which is quicker to register, but more expensive. If you go that route, be sure to use a whole bottle at a time and rinse and pour out in pool because the CYA settles at the bottom of the bottle.
 
Last edited:
Deb04 said:
Test for Ammonia first per mknauss's post. If there isn't any...

You need to add some CYA directly to get the pool up to 30. Buy dry CYA (called stabilizer or conditioner) at Walmart, Amazon, pool store, etc. Use pool math to determine how much to bring it up 10 ppm (in case your CYA is currently 20 and just not registering) and put it in using the sock method. With the sock method (search on this site if needed) it will register pretty quickly (like the next day). If still not showing up, add another 10. Repeat. If you get to that point, it should definitely be showing up.

Alternatively, you can use liquid stabilizer which is quicker to register, but more expensive. If you go that route, be sure to use a whole bottle at a time and rinse and pour out in pool because the CYA settles at the bottom of the bottle.
Click to expand...
I did start adding cya Friday. Continued sweeping and pushing ph down with muriaticl. Into yesterday evening, I had approx 15-20 cya level and ph 7.2-7.3. I said good enough, and dumped in 4 gal of liquid chlorine.

This am... Pool is clear. Dead Crud to vacuum on bottom but water was pure and sparkly. Chlorine level stayed elevated overnight. I added another gal at sunrise to keep it so and will add again later today to keep elevated thru the night.

Intend to break down filter grid tomorrow, clean, add new de, check chem levels, etc. Get cya into 30-40 range going into fall and maintain it so normal chlorine use is resumed.

Pool seems happy. I'm happy. Thanks tfp.
 
Test results?
Are you testing and adding chlorine or are you just dumping chlorine in and hoping for the best?
How many times a day are you testing FC during the SLAM Process?
How many times a day are you brushing?

SLAM Process isn't a one or two time add of chlorine. It's a process.
Did you do anOvernight Chlorine Loss Test?
Any CC reading?
Clear means crystal clear water and no visible algae (dead or alive).
 
proavia said:
Test results?
Are you testing and adding chlorine or are you just dumping chlorine in and hoping for the best?
How many times a day are you testing FC during the SLAM Process?
How many times a day are you brushing?

SLAM Process isn't a one or two time add of chlorine. It's a process.
Did you do anOvernight Chlorine Loss Test?
Any CC reading?
Clear means crystal clear water and no visible algae (dead or alive).
Click to expand...
My overnight levels were sustained. My fc is well above 5 ...using DPD 1 tab in Taylor kit. I brushed all day yesterday. Last night after chlorine dump. This am at sunrise with add of additional gal of chlorine. I floated some additional cya to continue pushing up.

I've taken care of my own pools 30+ years. This one 20+. You know what it should look like. The color, the bounce, the vibrance. It's raining that character. I just need to maintain it. I lost track of cya level... My error.
 

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proavia said:
What is "DPD 1 tab in Taylor kit"?
You can not complete a successful SLAM Process without using the FAS/DPD chlorine test.

Why the reluctance to post a full set of test results from one of the recommended test kits?
Test Kits Compared
Click to expand...
cause that's what I'm using...https://intheswim.com/p/dpd-tabs-1-free-chlorine-100/404570.html
 
thank you. sorry if I wasn't specific enough...I've had that test kit for a long time...I don't even know my model number anymore. :)
 
chunky said:
thank you. sorry if I wasn't specific enough...I've had that test kit for a long time...I don't even know my model number anymore. :)
Click to expand...
If you've had that kit/consumable supplies for more than two years, it's probably not good anymore.
 
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