Grout problem

Aug 17, 2017
10
Plano, TX
I have a problem with the tile grout at the waterline. I'll describe what I'm seeing (with pictures!), what I did, and then the recent history.

As illustrated in picture 1, there is some kind of build up on the grout that is above the waterline, but not below the waterline (with one exception to be described in a moment). I thought this might be precipitated salts (e.g, calcium chloride) that also spread onto the adjacent tile. I was puzzled that the deposits were above the waterline. I tried to remove with a stainless steel brush (visible in the picture) with little effect. Then I gently scraped with a flat blade screwdriver and it came off the tile as well as the grout. But some grout lines were very soft or had air pockets and a comprised joint was left as seen in the center joint. The build up appears worse on the convex surfaces (as seen here) than on the flat surfaces.

There is a unique joint shown in picture 2 that is one of the nastier above-waterline joints but with what appears to be a different kind of deposit below the waterline that extends slightly onto the plaster (Diamond-Brite).

So here's the history: Pool was resurfaced 27 months ago by some yahoo impersonating a pool expert. (I have a litany of issues with how the job was done but do not interpret my statement as bitterness. I have been through all the stages and have emerged a more understanding, tolerant, and benevolent human being.) Following resurface, the pH kept shooting up to 8.2 for months (iirc) and we kept adjusting pH and TA. (I don't know if my logs go back that far.) CH has been 250-275 but I refrained from adjusting that as our local is fairly hard and I thought it would increase over time (as water evaporated and the auto-fill added water). I noticed the grout problem 2-3 months ago and becoming concerned that low CH might be leaching calcium, I bought CaCl2 and gradually added 15 lbs over the past month to raise CH to 425 (assuming I can do the test properly). pH has been fairly stable: drifts up to 7.8 and a little acid drops it to 7.5. TA has generally been 70-80 and CYA 45-55 but recently bumped to 60 (which I'm ok with because I think the Texas sun has been burning up the chlorine).

I've done some research on the forum and suspect it may be efflorescence. Never heard of it before and I'm not a chemist (although I passed college chemistry). So I'm looking for a confirmation or a proper diagnosis then a prescription on what to do. (I hear you - don't scrape it with a screwdriver.) And how to repair the grout, hopefully myself. Hopefully in just a few spots but I'm concerned the efflorescence has caused too much grout deterioration.

The forum has been very helpful. I am sincerely grateful for those who take the time to share their expertise.

Lloyd
 

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Lloyd, yes it is Efflorescence - Further Reading from water behind your pool flowing through the gunite and finding the grout as the softest place to come out.

Cracks can be seen on your coping joints and below your coping all letting water into your bond beam. Then the water seeks a place to flow out.

You need to fix your coping problems and possibly water from your deck to reduce the efflorescence.
 
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Thanks for the reply, Allen.

I'm a fairly handy guy but I haven't worked with tile/mortar much outside of shower tile repair and cementing fence posts. To do the job properly/adequately, is patching (pressuring something into the existing cracks) a reasonable approach or is it grinding out the old material and replacing with new? A reasonable DIY job or for professionals only?

By "water from your deck," do you mean simply the flow of water from the deck to the coping? The concrete deck does slope away from the coping. There are flower beds between deck and house with soaker hoses for irrigation.

Thanks again,
Lloyd
 
You have both horizontal cracks and vertical cracks in the coping all of which lets water get into the shell and bond beam.

With the horizontal cracks it indicated the coping has separated from the bond beam.

The best long term fix is to pop the coping stones off and remortar them to the bond beam and put mortar between the stone joints.

Grout reaction 1.JPG


Grout reaction 2.JPG
 
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One pool company has recommended re-doing the coping and tile. The rep said it would be easier to replace the tile than grind and re-grout the existing tile. Their estimate to do that is more than what we paid less than 2 1/2 years ago to re-plaster and tile. Chalk that up to inflation?? The bigger concern is they would drain the pool to do that work and will not be responsible for any damage done to the plaster.

I have a few follow up questions:
1) Is re-grouting necessary/recommended or can I try to clean the existing grout with diluted muriatic acid?
2) Might an incorrect grout have been used that is more prone to this problem? What type of grout is proper?
3) Can the coping be replaced including the underlying mortar without draining the pool? I.e., can the work be done from the deck instead of from in the pool?
4) If/when the coping and tile is replaced, should I insure that a waterproofing treatment is applied to the underlying structure (bond beam?)?

Thanks,
Lloyd
 
1) Is re-grouting necessary/recommended or can I try to clean the existing grout with diluted muriatic acid?

You can give it a try. What do you got to lose? If you are not happy with the results then you are back here.

2) Might an incorrect grout have been used that is more prone to this problem? What type of grout is proper?

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3) Can the coping be replaced including the underlying mortar without draining the pool? I.e., can the work be done from the deck instead of from in the pool?

No.

4) If/when the coping and tile is replaced, should I insure that a waterproofing treatment is applied to the underlying structure (bond beam?)?

Here is the recommended installation process for glass tile...



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A waterproof coating like Basecrete should be used. Otherwise you can end up with problems like this...

 
Thank you, Allen. That information will help me in conversations with contractors.

One more: Is working on the two-year old plaster a major concern? If it is damaged, can it be repaired properly while the pool is empty? (I guess that's two. ;)
 
One more: Is working on the two-year old plaster a major concern?

Not really.

If it is damaged, can it be repaired properly while the pool is empty?

Probably.

What type of plaster finish?

What color?

Depends on the finish and color how well the repaired areas will match.
 
Blue plaster tends to get bleached and fade over time. Any patches will not match color perfectly.
 

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