First pool Tampa area - Plumbing question

TampaKathy · Jul 11, 2022

JamesW said:
Is the performance acceptable at that pressure?

Unfortunately I don't think so...since this is my first pool I didn't know what to expect but it's not as clean as I would like...could be tfp has set my expectations too high

. I hadn't posted anything yet but don't tell @HermanTX that I'm not impressed by the ifcs.

HermanTX · Jul 11, 2022

TampaKathy said:
Unfortunately I don't think so...since this is my first pool I didn't know what to expect but it's not as clean as I would like...could be tfp has set my expectations too high . I hadn't posted anything yet but don't tell @HermanTX that I'm not impressed by the ifcs.

Well, we all have purchased things we later regretted - for whatever reason. That is what they call "life experiences". We move on and do better next time and although we try to teach our kids about our life experiences - they need to have their own to really appreciate it. Life goes on.

jonpcar · Jul 14, 2022

https://www.troublefreepool.com/attachments/heat-pump-bypass-jpg.433640/

Kathy, 10-12 psi at the valve head is low for an IFCS…and 60-80 gallons running through it seems really high.

Did you take the measurements when your valve selecting the IFCS “return” path to your pool at 100% (not the position shown in your photo). I assume the other return path in the picture is for your water features which should be turned OFF when the IFCS is running. If you recorded the measurements while water was flowing out of your water features, that might explain the psi/gpm numbers that seem abnormal to me.

TampaKathy · Jul 14, 2022

The water features are on a separate pump (can't see in photo). "Pool return" is one return over the bench in the deep end and "cleaner return" is the IFCS. Maybe I should just put it on "cleaner return." I'll do that later and relook at it.
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jonpcar · Jul 14, 2022

TampaKathy said:
The water features are on a separate pump (can't see in photo). These labels are a little confusing to me (I should write a note on the pvc that makes sense)...but "cleaner return" is one return over the bench in the deep end and "pool return" is the IFCS (I just went out and double checked this before responding, lol). Maybe I should just put it on "pool return." I'll do that later and relook at it.
. View attachment 435842

That valve is a good candidate for automation…IDEALLY, the handle should be turned to “Cleaner Return” whenever the IFCS is run (2700 rpm, a few hous a day)…the rest of the time it should be set to pool returns (<1800 rpm, however many hours you need to chlorinate and skim).

But you don’t have an automation valve there YET. However, since your pool is fully enclosed you probably don’t need to run the returns for debris skimming. I would turn that valve to 100% IFCS (cleaner return). That will increase your PSI at your cleaning head, reduce your GPM (no need for the SWG bypass), improve your IFCS effectiveness, and potentially save a bunch in energy costs by reducing the overall pump RPM: start with only 2-4 hours a day at higher RPM-2700, + 6-10 hours time for additional chlorine production at RPM-1600.

TampaKathy · Jul 14, 2022

I'll try just keeping it on Cleaner returns...I dont want to put it on "Pool return" b/c that is literally one return. I get more dirt and bugs on my surface than I was expecting with a screen, lol.

jonpcar · Jul 14, 2022

That will make a significant difference. Look at the GPM and PSI measurements when you change that valve…report back if you want. I would expect the GPM numbers to be much lower and the PSI numbers to be higher (both at the filter and the IFCS head). It would be possible to slightly tweak that valve towards the pool return side, but it would need to be 85%+ towards the cleaning side to keep the IFCS working properly. If you do that, you may also have to increase the RPM during cleaning to keep the IFCS working properly.

With an IFCS, it would also be ideal to have an actual heater bypass valve that is manually/automatically controlled. Having the heater always “in the return loop” (even with the “automatic” bypass that you have currently), WILL reduce the PSI at the cleaning head and probably require a higher IFCS cleaning RPM than with an actual heater bypass valve.

Your IFCS system looks to be designed better than most, I would expect it to work well for a pool with 21400 gallons…close to the upper end of what I consider appropriate for a pool with an IFCS.

TampaKathy · Jul 14, 2022

jonpcar said:
That will make a significant difference. Look at the GPM and PSI measurements when you change that valve…report back if you want. I would expect the GPM numbers to be much lower and the PSI numbers to be higher (both at the filter and the IFCS head). It would be possible to slightly tweak that valve towards the pool return side, but it would need to be 85%+ towards the cleaning side to keep the IFCS working properly. If you do that, you may also have to increase the RPM during cleaning to keep the IFCS working properly.

With an IFCS, it would also be ideal to have an actual heater bypass valve that is manually/automatically controlled. Having the heater always “in the return loop” (even with the “automatic” bypass that you have currently), WILL reduce the PSI at the cleaning head and probably require a higher IFCS cleaning RPM than with an actual heater bypass valve.

Your IFCS system looks to be designed better than most, I would expect it to work well for a pool with 21400 gallons…close to the upper end of what I consider appropriate for a pool with an IFCS.

Makes sense. For the most part, I wouldn't by bypassing the heat pump even if I could b/c it is also my chiller. I had asked for a bypass when it was being installed but we weren't on the same page...when I said bypass, the guy said yes there would be one (meaning the auto one) and I really meant a manual one but that's my fault, I didn't know what i was talking about haha.