Our pool has been black for a month

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SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
I think the pH test may have to wait for another day (I need to eat dinner, it got late!).

BUT here are the other test results:

My results followed by (pool store results from 7/2, posted previously upthread)

FC 0.5 (0.26)
TC 1.5 (1.41)
CC 1 (1.15)

pH ??? (8.2)
TA 160 (171)

CH 350 (334)

CYA <20 (4)

Overall lines up pretty well with the pool shop's test if we assume not much has changed since then despite husband's periodic shocks & algaecides (I think he stopped the baking soda & switched to a stronger shock, but still cal hypo). I'm lobbying for liquid bleach, because if anything this does argue for the current regimen being insufficient to raise the chlorine level as much as needed?
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Chlorine is being consumed and unless you or your husband have been making frequent regimented additions of chlorine, whatever is being added is just being consumed and is gone. Not knowing what the CH of your fill water is, the best argument for the discontinuation of the use of Cal-Hypo is the 350 ppm level your water is currently at. A vinyl pool has no use for CH anyway and you’re currently in range of what a plaster pool would need. Continued regular use of Cal Hypo will drive this number even higher and could lead to scaling. Eventually your only option to reduce its level will be to exchange water. Remember liquid bleach will only raise FC.
 
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Lake Placid said:
After reading this write up I’m dreaming about what I “need“ from leslies to get a free sample bottle. $10 gallon of chlorine - nope menards has it for $3.99. Hardness plus…nope it’s too small and more expensive than the other store in town. $22 baking soda….Walmart has it for $6…..dang it I’m striking out! 😡
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They have pool toys. Pool tools. Taylor reagents. You don't have to buy anything to get the sampler. Just go in and say you want to get your water tested (which is only a lie if you add "... at Leslie's"). They don't care. If you believe in karma, or doing the right thing, just remember to someday buy something from Leslie's. I buy almost all my chlorine and acid from my local Leslie's, because the Lowes doesn't have the acid strength I want or the freshest chlorine, like Leslie's does. So my conscious is clear. Or order them online. These appear to have the same flip cap that works so well on my Leslie's sampler:

 
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Dirk said:
They have pool toys. Pool tools. Taylor reagents. You don't have to buy anything to get the sampler. Just go in and say you want to get your water tested (which is only a lie if you add "... at Leslie's"). They don't care. If you believe in karma, or doing the right thing, just remember to someday buy something from Leslie's. I buy almost all my chlorine and acid from my local Leslie's, because the Lowes doesn't have the acid strength I want or the freshest chlorine, like Leslie's does. So my conscious is clear. Or order them online. These appear to have the same flip cap that works so well on my Leslie's sampler:

Click to expand...
What if I DID buy hardness plus there last year? Can my conscience still be clear and can I get the Freeeeeeeeeebie? 🤣
 
Lake Placid said:
After reading this write up I’m dreaming about what I “need“ from leslies to get a free sample bottle. $10 gallon of chlorine - nope menards has it for $3.99. Hardness plus…nope it’s too small and more expensive than the other store in town. $22 baking soda….Walmart has it for $6…..dang it I’m striking out! 😡
Click to expand...
Just walk into Leslie's with a plastic cup halfway filled with water to test. The rest is magical.
 
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If you don‘t want to take a Leslie’s bottle, many outdoor events give water squeeze bottles away for free. I think I have a half dozen of them. Wide mouth opening makes it easy to fill and the squeeze top males it easy to drip the last ml into the sample comparator or tube.

80CBCF6F-6AF9-4010-82F8-64D993814B82.jpeg
 
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SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
I think the pH test may have to wait for another day (I need to eat dinner, it got late!).

BUT here are the other test results:

My results followed by (pool store results from 7/2, posted previously upthread)

FC 0.5 (0.26)
TC 1.5 (1.41)
CC 1 (1.15)

pH ??? (8.2)
TA 160 (171)

CH 350 (334)

CYA <20 (4)

Overall lines up pretty well with the pool shop's test if we assume not much has changed since then despite husband's periodic shocks & algaecides (I think he stopped the baking soda & switched to a stronger shock, but still cal hypo). I'm lobbying for liquid bleach, because if anything this does argue for the current regimen being insufficient to raise the chlorine level as much as needed?
Click to expand...
In my opinion those electronic testers are really hard to use and really fussy with calibration. The test kit you bought has the easiest pH test you can possibly imagine just fill the tub with water and put five drops of the red dye in it and see which color it looks closest to
 
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Bperry said:
In my opinion those electronic testers are really hard to use and really fussy with calibration. The test kit you bought has the easiest pH test you can possibly imagine just fill the tub with water and put five drops of the red dye in it and see which color it looks closest to
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Never used one, so I was hesitant to weigh it. But I find the Taylor pH test to be the absolute easiest of the bunch, and can even discern "between the color bars" for what I feel is very accurate results. I would recommend any sort of electronic gizmo only to those who can't see that particular color well, otherwise, the Taylor test is the way to go.
 
Lake Placid said:
What if I DID buy hardness plus there last year? Can my conscience still be clear and can I get the Freeeeeeeeeebie? 🤣
Click to expand...
Absolutely. I hear it's a dry heat!! :devilish:

If I had to rationalize, I'd say the owner(s) of Leslie's makes that bottle available for free as a loss leader to get someone in the store to buy something. I have no doubt the profit you paid them last year more than pays for the bottle you'll steal, uh, get this year. The implied contract is satisfied by both parties!

That all said, chlorine is sometimes unavailable. It's happened twice now where I live. It's good to have a Leslie's and a Lowes, so supporting both is in my best interest, even if it's not always the best bargain. Two of my favorite places to shop, one for household, one for clothes, have shut their doors in just the last year. No doubt there were many forces, but my first thought was "Well, that's what I get for shopping on Amazon so much." Supporting local stores is the only way to help them be there when you need them...
 
I thought I saw something on the test kit site that made it seem like the electronic tester would be easier for frequent testing, oh well!

Practical questions regarding SLAM:
It seems like you're supposed to have your CYA and pH somewhat in order before you start chlorinating at SLAM levels.
What should I adjust first? Should I still be also adding chlorine in the meantime, just in lower than SLAM amounts?

The ABCs of Pool Chemistry says you shouldn't clean the filter for a week after adding CYA (if in granulated or solid form... which might be necessary, as it seems like the liquid is expensive & perhaps hard to find). Can I just... ignore that advice & add extra? Since we have to clean our filters at least daily?
Hmm I'm seeing in a thread elsewhere that this advice is meant to ensure all the granular CYA gets dissolved, & that you can maybe get around this by hanging the sock in front of the return & doing plenty of brushing?

I also saw the note in How Long to Wait... about giving 24 hours between Cal Hypo & lowering pH. So if we've recently used our old shock we'll want to wait before adding Muriatic Acid, I gather.

Any other contraindications & things to keep in mind re: what to add when, how, & in what order-- other than "don't mix" & "wait at least an hour between most things"?
 
Dirk said:
Absolutely. I hear it's a dry heat!! :devilish:

If I had to rationalize, I'd say the owner(s) of Leslie's makes that bottle available for free as a loss leader to get someone in the store to buy something. I have no doubt the profit you paid them last year more than pays for the bottle you'll steal, uh, get this year. The implied contract is satisfied by both parties!

That all said, chlorine is sometimes unavailable. It's happened twice now where I live. It's good to have a Leslie's and a Lowes, so supporting both is in my best interest, even if it's not always the best bargain. Two of my favorite places to shop, one for household, one for clothes, have shut their doors in just the last year. No doubt there were many forces, but my first thought was "Well, that's what I get for shopping on Amazon so much." Supporting local stores is the only way to help them be there when you need them...
Click to expand...
Can’t agree more. As much fun as I’ve had dogging on leslies the last few posts, I do legitimately try and find reason to shop at the locally owned PS not to far from my house. Usually it’s calcium chloride or olympic deck paint…. something I actually need. Matter of fact this year they saved my bacon when I neeeded a new MPV. They had it in stock and it was the same price as the best internet deal I could find. That’s a winner for everyone, and I hope they made a few bucks on me in the process.
 
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SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
I thought I saw something on the test kit site that made it seem like the electronic tester would be easier for frequent testing, oh well!

Practical questions regarding SLAM:
It seems like you're supposed to have your CYA and pH somewhat in order before you start chlorinating at SLAM levels.
What should I adjust first? Should I still be also adding chlorine in the meantime, just in lower than SLAM amounts?

The ABCs of Pool Chemistry says you shouldn't clean the filter for a week after adding CYA (if in granulated or solid form... which might be necessary, as it seems like the liquid is expensive & perhaps hard to find). Can I just... ignore that advice & add extra? Since we have to clean our filters at least daily?
Hmm I'm seeing in a thread elsewhere that this advice is meant to ensure all the granular CYA gets dissolved, & that you can maybe get around this by hanging the sock in front of the return & doing plenty of brushing?

I also saw the note in How Long to Wait... about giving 24 hours between Cal Hypo & lowering pH. So if we've recently used our old shock we'll want to wait before adding Muriatic Acid, I gather.

Any other contraindications & things to keep in mind re: what to add when, how, & in what order-- other than "don't mix" & "wait at least an hour between most things"?
Click to expand...
You can go ahead and adjust your CYA to 30 ppm using the sock method. Add the prescribed amount of CYA to a sock and hang in front of a return. After 15 minutes or so you can massage the sock to speed the process along. Once its fully dissolved out of the sock, you don’t have to worry about the no backwash rule as the acid is in solution in the pool. Adjust your ph to 7.2. You’ll need to confirm with your test results what the ph is and adjust down to 7.2. Don’t take the pool stores test as any reasonable information. Then proceed to add chlorine to SLAM level (You are using liquid aren’t you 😉).

I believe the caution about delaying PH adjustment after adding Cal Hypo is to prevent the calcium from clouding the water. However, given the state of your water currently, I don’t think clouding is your biggest concern. As far as adding chemicals, generally 10-15 minutes between dosing is just fine.

Keep brushing, vacuuming, and bailing as much organic matter as you can out of the pool. Test your water for chlorine as frequently as possible but no more than 1 time an hour, and add chlorine back to SLAM levels once you’ve tested. After a day or so test for cya just to confirm it’s where you expect it to be.

Initially you’re going to go through chlorine quickly it will slow with time. Make sure you have plenty of chlorine on hand a ready to go before you jump into the process, the trips to the store will get aggravating and come at the worst possible time. 😉

Keep asking questions as you need to. Don’t assume and make unnecessary mistakes if you aren’t sure. You’ve got a bunch of big brains here to work you through the process. 😊

And oh yeah pictures. Take pictures of your progress. Try and take them from the same perspective and put something in the water like the brush and pole to give a clear differentiator of improving clarity.
 
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SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
It seems like you're supposed to have your CYA and pH somewhat in order before you start chlorinating at SLAM levels.
Click to expand...
Yes, CYA should be about 30-40, pH should be about 7.2-7.5. And as much debris should be removed as possible.
SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
What should I adjust first? Should I still be also adding chlorine in the meantime, just in lower than SLAM amounts?
Click to expand...
CYA first, though keep your pH in the 7s. Yes, keep adding chlorine to keep things from getting worse.
SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
that you can maybe get around this by hanging the sock in front of the return & doing plenty of brushing?
Click to expand...
CYA can stain your finish if a clump of it gets to the bottom, so handle it with care. You're going to have to add the CYA directly to the pool, not through the skimmer. Use the sock in front of a return method. You can squeeze the sock a bit to speed things up, but just be aware that if particles drift to the bottom, and remain there, they can stain the finish. So I would have the pump on high (circulating the pool), and have a second set of hands brushing under where I was squeezing the sock. Just do a little at a time and don't let it pile up. I know you won't be able to see it pile up, but you get the idea. Be sure it's "clouding" into the water, and not dropping straight down. This advice is probably overkill, but I have a CYA stain, so I'm just being cautious.
SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
I also saw the note in How Long to Wait... about giving 24 hours between Cal Hypo & lowering pH. So if we've recently used our old shock we'll want to wait before adding Muriatic Acid, I gather.
Click to expand...
Sorry, ya lost me. Where would the Cal Hypo come into play? You should be using liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and crystal CYA for a SLAM, and nothing else, as far as I know.

Just before the SLAM, you lower your pH to 7.2.

And @Lake Placid just beat me to the punch. We've got the same advice, for the most part, he answers the questions I didn't.
 
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kimkats said:
@duraleigh was the owner when I started. He sold it to his daughter @OTPirate. She has sold it to her sister @Sarah and Nate so it really is a family affair!
Click to expand...
🙋‍♂️

I got something to say about Dave / @duraleigh that never ceases to amaze me. Without telling them he invented/owned one of the 2 kits, he tells new folks they need a reliable kit. Many choose the Taylor kit and not his kit. Still without saying a word, he then happily teaches them how to master their pools with 'the competition's' test kit.

I think about that everytime somebody accuses us of selling/pushing 'our' test kit. They never realize how many times Dave or the rest of us help someone with the other test kit. I usually resist the urge to launch off because that member has already made up their mind and no good would come of me launching. But today I can talk about it in a happy scenario.

Bravo Dave.
Bravo everyone else.

:lovetfp:
 
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Sorry, ya lost me. Where would the Cal Hypo come into play? You should be using liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and crystal CYA for a SLAM, and nothing else, as far as I know.
Click to expand...
I hadn't fully finished arguing the case for the TFP/SLAM method, just been gradually getting more involved with the pool upkeep & occasionally mentioning these potentially alternate pool chemicals & techniques to the husband (like I said earlier... didn't want to insult him by assuming I can just take over with a few hours of internet research vs his 5 years of actually taking care of the thing).
Now that I have our test results I feel more confident about saying we need to get X Y Z products & quit using those others. I mean, I know you all armed me in advance with knowledge of the products I would almost certainly need; but I didn't want to buy a bunch of stuff prematurely (I have a tendency to get excited about projects/hobbies, get everything I need, & then... forget to actually get started?).
Much easier to move forward now that I have the test info to actually start mentally walking myself through the PoolMath & SLAM instructions.

I've now hashed things out with husband... turns out he occasionally got prickly when I asked pool questions, not because of injured pride, but because he REALLY hates being in charge of the pool, hates thinking about it & trying to figure out what to do about it, etc. So as of last night, I am officially in charge of pool decisions & chemistry! And I could have gotten started a lot faster if I'd actually stated this was my goal, instead of trying to spare his feelings & come to a consensus together. (headdesk)

Which is all to say... at this time we have one measly bottle of liquid bleach, which I haven't started using because of the pH & CYA concerns mentioned earlier; and there's a half-dissolved puck of CYA/CalHypo in the basket that I'm loathe to pull out because we don't have other CYA on hand right this second. We'll be hitting the hardware store, I've finally figured out who has what (it took me way too long to stop searching for "cyanuric acid" and instead search for "stabilizer"... I came very close to blowing $50 on a gallon of Cyanuric Acid REAGENT which is poorly labelled in several online shopping results)

I think we'll be better stocked with what we need by this afternoon, though. So back to the Cal Hypo "wait 24hrs to fiddle w/ pH" item...

question time again
The whole "don't mix different kinds of chlorinators together" thing-- how long do I need to wait between removing the Cal Hypo / CYA puck, and starting liquid bleach instead of Cal Hypo? Maybe I will go pull the puck now, after all.

I've heard "add chlorine in the meantime even though you still need to work on CYA/pH prior to SLAMing"-- but I'm still unclear on whether there's a particular order to choose re: adding liquid chlorine vs adding CYA vs adding MA, & how long to wait between each.
I gather that you can test & adjust as often as hourly when you're trying to up your chlorine levels; but is that same thing applicable to when you're adjusting your CYA & pH?

CYA first, though keep your pH in the 7s. Yes, keep adding chlorine to keep things from getting worse.
Click to expand...

my pH is in the 8s if the pool test was correct (I'll check soon--their other readings were within range of mine though) so in that case it sounds like I should add MA first, then CYA then chlorine?
 
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SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
I hadn't fully finished arguing the case for the TFP/SLAM method, just been gradually getting more involved with the pool upkeep & occasionally mentioning these potentially alternate pool chemicals & techniques to the husband (like I said earlier... didn't want to insult him by assuming I can just take over with a few hours of internet research vs his 5 years of actually taking care of the thing).
Now that I have our test results I feel more confident about saying we need to get X Y Z products & quit using those others. I mean, I know you all armed me in advance with knowledge of the products I would almost certainly need; but I didn't want to buy a bunch of stuff prematurely (I have a tendency to get excited about projects/hobbies, get everything I need, & then... forget to actually get started?).
Much easier to move forward now that I have the test info to actually start mentally walking myself through the PoolMath & SLAM instructions.

I've now hashed things out with husband... turns out he occasionally got prickly when I asked pool questions, not because of injured pride, but because he REALLY hates being in charge of the pool, hates thinking about it & trying to figure out what to do about it, etc. So as of last night, I am officially in charge of pool decisions & chemistry! And I could have gotten started a lot faster if I'd actually stated this was my goal, instead of trying to spare his feelings & come to a consensus together. (headdesk)

Which is all to say... at this time we have one measly bottle of liquid bleach, which I haven't started using because of the pH & CYA concerns mentioned earlier; and there's a half-dissolved puck of CYA/CalHypo in the basket that I'm loathe to pull out because we don't have other CYA on hand right this second. We'll be hitting the hardware store, I've finally figured out who has what (it took me way too long to stop searching for "cyanuric acid" and instead search for "stabilizer"... I came very close to blowing $50 on a gallon of Cyanuric Acid REAGENT which is poorly labelled in several online shopping results)

I think we'll be better stocked with what we need by this afternoon, though. So back to the Cal Hypo "wait 24hrs to fiddle w/ pH" item...

question time again
The whole "don't mix different kinds of chlorinators together" thing-- how long do I need to wait between removing the Cal Hypo / CYA puck, and starting liquid bleach instead of Cal Hypo? Maybe I will go pull the puck now, after all.

I've heard "add chlorine in the meantime even though you still need to work on CYA/pH prior to SLAMing"-- but I'm still unclear on whether there's a particular order to choose re: adding liquid chlorine vs adding CYA vs adding MA, & how long to wait between each.
I gather that you can test & adjust as often as hourly when you're trying to up your chlorine levels; but is that same thing applicable to when you're adjusting your CYA & pH?



my pH is in the 8s if the pool test was correct (I'll check soon--their other readings were within range of mine though) so in that case it sounds like I should add MA first, then CYA then chlorine?
Click to expand...
A few comments. NEVER put anything in a chlorinator or container other than what it was designed to have in it. It’s not a question of how long to wait before it’s ok, it’s never ok. Mixing calhypo and trichlor is very bad news. You pour the chlorinating liquid directly into the pool. It doesn’t go anywhere else.

If you’ve decided to try and save the water (sounds like you have) you just need to get chlorine in there ASAP.

If your pH is 8.2, add a few “glugs” of acid to lower it to 7.X. You can add a little CYA using the sock method(but please add it in small amounts to avoid overdoing that one!) I still think I’d wait on CYA until the water was less opaque.

So just get your water up to SLAM level, take a picture, then do it again in a few hours. Rinse and repeat until it’s clear.
 
SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
I hadn't fully finished arguing the case for the TFP/SLAM method, just been gradually getting more involved with the pool upkeep & occasionally mentioning these potentially alternate pool chemicals & techniques to the husband (like I said earlier... didn't want to insult him by assuming I can just take over with a few hours of internet research vs his 5 years of actually taking care of the thing).
Now that I have our test results I feel more confident about saying we need to get X Y Z products & quit using those others. I mean, I know you all armed me in advance with knowledge of the products I would almost certainly need; but I didn't want to buy a bunch of stuff prematurely (I have a tendency to get excited about projects/hobbies, get everything I need, & then... forget to actually get started?).
Much easier to move forward now that I have the test info to actually start mentally walking myself through the PoolMath & SLAM instructions.

I've now hashed things out with husband... turns out he occasionally got prickly when I asked pool questions, not because of injured pride, but because he REALLY hates being in charge of the pool, hates thinking about it & trying to figure out what to do about it, etc. So as of last night, I am officially in charge of pool decisions & chemistry! And I could have gotten started a lot faster if I'd actually stated this was my goal, instead of trying to spare his feelings & come to a consensus together. (headdesk)

Which is all to say... at this time we have one measly bottle of liquid bleach, which I haven't started using because of the pH & CYA concerns mentioned earlier; and there's a half-dissolved puck of CYA/CalHypo in the basket that I'm loathe to pull out because we don't have other CYA on hand right this second. We'll be hitting the hardware store, I've finally figured out who has what (it took me way too long to stop searching for "cyanuric acid" and instead search for "stabilizer"... I came very close to blowing $50 on a gallon of Cyanuric Acid REAGENT which is poorly labelled in several online shopping results)

I think we'll be better stocked with what we need by this afternoon, though. So back to the Cal Hypo "wait 24hrs to fiddle w/ pH" item...

question time again
The whole "don't mix different kinds of chlorinators together" thing-- how long do I need to wait between removing the Cal Hypo / CYA puck, and starting liquid bleach instead of Cal Hypo? Maybe I will go pull the puck now, after all.

I've heard "add chlorine in the meantime even though you still need to work on CYA/pH prior to SLAMing"-- but I'm still unclear on whether there's a particular order to choose re: adding liquid chlorine vs adding CYA vs adding MA, & how long to wait between each.
I gather that you can test & adjust as often as hourly when you're trying to up your chlorine levels; but is that same thing applicable to when you're adjusting your CYA & pH?



my pH is in the 8s if the pool test was correct (I'll check soon--their other readings were within range of mine though) so in that case it sounds like I should add MA first, then CYA then chlorine?
Click to expand...
The puck you’ve found is likely Trichlor. Cal hypo is usually just granular (in residential settings) and is unstabilized. is the puck in a floater Or an inline feeder Or in the skimmer? Doesn’t really matter just get it out and get ready to turn your water blue. Mixing chemicals outside of the pool is generally a no no…things can get bad fast. Dosing your pool is safe and can be done relatively quickly with a short wait (15 min) in between with the pump running to let it mix. Re-read the article you linked above 😉 (How long to wait).

Follow my schedule above with how to time everything out. CYA, then ph, then SLAM. One you’ve started the SLAM your FC will be too high to accurately measure PH so you won’t worry about it until the SLAM is over. CYA you’ll only need to retest after a day or so to confirm the exact level you are at after adding stabilizer. Then adjust your FC SLAM level if needed after that test.

If your PH is too high to read you’ll need to bring it down in stages. Assume it’s 8 and add enough to dose it down to 7.4. Test again. If it still reads too high repeat. Assume it’s 8 and dose to 7.4. Once you start to read in the 7’s then dose down to 7.2.

Good questions….keep em coming 😊
 
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I just looked at the bucket that the puck came out of (I think--husband just left for the hardware store so can't verify), and it actually is unstabilized Cal Hypo tablets. I assumed it was chlorinator+stabilizer when he said "puck".

Don't worry, I was never planning on mixing chemicals outside of the poolwater! My concern was just different things "mixing" via being added into to the pool water back-to-back.

So now that I've taken the Cal Hypo tablet out of the skimmer bucket, I don't need to give it a long waiting period before starting to add a different form of chlorine (liquid)?
 
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SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
So now that I've taken the Cal Hypo tablet out of the skimmer bucket, I don't need to give it a long waiting period before starting to add a different form of chlorine (liquid)?
Click to expand...
You can add bleach / LC to the pool immediately as it's in a different spot. Never mix the two, as in, pour LC in the tab dispenser.
 
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SpongyMothKilledOurPool said:
I just looked at the bucket that the puck came out of (I think--husband just left for the hardware store so can't verify), and it actually is unstabilized Cal Hypo tablets. I assumed it was chlorinator+stabilizer when he said "puck".

Don't worry, I was never planning on mixing chemicals outside of the poolwater! My concern was just different things "mixing" via being added into to the pool water back-to-back.

So now that I've taken the Cal Hypo tablet out of the skimmer bucket, I don't need to give it a long waiting period before starting to add a different form of chlorine (liquid)?
Click to expand...
No you are fine to start other chlorine additions. Another departure from what’s been happening at your pool - don’t use the skimmer basket to dose chemicals. It’s not good for equipment and can cause clogs. The only exception here would be adding CYA via the sock method as long as it doesn’t restrict flow in the skimmer, and additions of de if you have a de filter.
 
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If you have leftover CalHypo laying around, or a bunch stored, please read this:

The Hidden Danger of Cal-Hypo

UPDATE: Second fire breaks out at Lonza chemical warehouse in Bradley County - WRCBtv.com | Chattanooga News, Weather Sports While I certainly advocate the use of cal-hypo when it can be substituted for liquid chlorine, it is a good reminder to treat it carefully. Cal-hypo can come in several...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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