Aurora semi inground pool

You can use a potato (say what???) to shove in the skimmer hole if you don't have a gizmo for it.

I am VERY impressed with your work on the liner/shimmer issue! WELL DONE!!!

Kim:kim:
I don’t think that will work as the skimmer box will still have water in it.
If u have a winter skimmer plate (the kind like a tupperware lid) or a super large tupperware container that someone can hold over the opening of the skimmer while u accomplish your task u may be able to complete the job without draining.
 
Success ! We took the skimmer off, put the small butterfly gasket between the skimmer body and wide mouth extension = no leaks ! The duct tape from the earlier liner fix held well and the liner did not slip at all when we removed the skimmer.

Now I am having an issue with the Power Flo Matrix with water only filling the pump basket half way. Previous pumps I have used had a bleeder valve on the top of the lid. This one is domed shaped.
 
Now I am having an issue with the Power Flo Matrix with water only filling the pump basket half way.
Glad to hear the skimmer isn't leaking. :goodjob: As for the pump, I have one of those too. Sounds like air may be getting it. Did you lube that new O-ring under the lid?
 
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With the pump off- Just unscrew the lid a little to release the pressure until water comes out then retighten.
Do as Tex mentioned to be sure things are sealing well.
Also check all suction side connections/clamps.
If the water level in the pool is a little too low u will get a vortex in the skimmer & it will suck air.
Ideal water level is at least 1/2 way up the skimmer opening & possibly an inch higher.
 
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I believe Mdragger is right with the water level being too low. I turned the pump off as soon as I saw the vortex and the water level fall to half. My first thought was I needed to bleed the air out but on further reading on Troublefree discovered it self bleeds - barring no air leaks in the line. Fingers crossed this pool will be up and running today !

Thanks to everyone for the help !
 
Everything is working great now that the water level is up ! :)

The return fitting does not have an eyeball and it appeasr the few pine needles in the pool are moving away the skimmer. Is there anyway to be able to direct the water flow without having to take the return fitting apart ?
 
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It should be multiple pieces.
This part tightens on the wall
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Then this part screws into the piece above
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The eyeball is directional.
Sometimes they need a little nudging to adjust
 
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That unscrews from the 1st part i posted that stays in the wall.
You shouldn’t have to unscrew it to move the eyeball (it should rotate) unless its stuck & u need more leverage. Sometimes tapping it does the trick. If the pump is on it may make it harder to rotate. I use pool lube on mine about once a season to keep it easy to move.
 
I have a hayward pro flo pump. I ran it on high today for maybe 10 minutes, turned it off, turned it to low speed and it only hums. I have cleaned the basket, checked the impaler and it spins freely. Any suggestions ? This pump is brand new, only used 4 days on low until I used it on high today.
 
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It could be a variety of things like a capacitor or a bad switch
With the power disconnected, open the back cover to the pump & you can look at the capacitor & see if it looks like it’s bulging at all or anything looks burnt. Even if it’s not bulging , replacing it is an easy & fairly cheap thing to try while waiting on your warranty claim.
get the #’s off of it or take a pic of it so u can get another one. They’re not very expensive- Leslie’s & pool stores often have them so u might get lucky if one is open today.
Here’s more info 👇
Until u get the pump going be sure to maintain target fc levels with liquid chlorine since your swg won’t be producing fc for u. FC/CYA Levels
u can mix it in with the water hose, a brush, or a submersible pump.
Skim with a net to keep debris out.
You can also use a standard vac as a siphon to vac to waste is necessary.
 
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The capicator did not look to bulge and nothing looked burnt. I read on here about opening the back and using a screwdriver to spin the impaler the pushing the start button - that worked. If I turn it off then I have to spint the impaler again to get it to start.
 
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The capicator did not look to bulge and nothing looked burnt. I read on here about opening the back and using a screwdriver to spin the impaler the pushing the start button - that worked. If I turn it off then I have to spint the impaler again to get it to start.
You shouldn't be having this problem with a 4-day old pump. A cap can be bad internally and not show any external signs of damage. Or this could be a different issue. Did you get the pump locally to where you can exchange it?
 
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The pump came with the pool kit we ordered from Pool Factory. I will be submitting a warranty claim.
They’re generally pretty expedient so hopefully u will have a new pump soon.
Until then - liquid chlorine.
Do u have a submersible pump?
 

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