White substance collected by the pool cleaner

IronMike

Member
Apr 22, 2020
19
Brentwood, CA
I have a in-ground 16,000-gallon plaster pool which is about 20 years old and I own it for the last 3.5 years. My pool cleaner starts collecting the white pieces of substances for the last few times I cleaned. I mainly use liquid chlorine and muriatic acid to balance the pool chemistry. I don’t notice those substance when I swim. Any idea where they come from and how to address the issue. Thanks in advance!!

Mike
 

Attachments

  • 8811E000-EB77-4B0B-B8C7-910C2E120192.jpeg
    8811E000-EB77-4B0B-B8C7-910C2E120192.jpeg
    458.9 KB · Views: 21
  • F71E27F9-4F4A-496B-B2B5-2AED840C2F21.jpeg
    F71E27F9-4F4A-496B-B2B5-2AED840C2F21.jpeg
    678.9 KB · Views: 22
Thank you for the reply! I noticed there are some white scale on the tiles around the water line, and it looks like the flakes are coming from the scale. Attached is the picture of the tiles. I don’t have the flakes from the cleaner anymore, but when I tried to put some muriatic acid on the scale, they did fizz. I did a full set of tests, and here are my results:

FC 4.5
PH 7.8
TA 100
CH 625
CYA 55

What would be the best way to clean the scale? Is my Calcium hardness too high and what is the best way to lower it? Thanks in advance!!

Mike
 

Attachments

  • 1110D799-DF24-4E77-95EE-50FDA621599B.jpeg
    1110D799-DF24-4E77-95EE-50FDA621599B.jpeg
    327.6 KB · Views: 12
You CH level is high and is likely the a contributing factor to your scaling issues. The only ways to reduce CH is through a water exchange or reverse osmosis service ($700-$800). Further CH rise can be reduced or eliminated by topping off with softened fill water. Your options are to connect to an existing whole-home softener, install a dedicated automated system for the pool, or use a portable RV water softener (link in my sig).

Chemistry can be adjusted to reduce calcium scaling by maintaining a CSI level between 0.0 and -0.30. Yours is somewhere around +0.55. As CH levels rise, this is more difficult to achieve. Lowering CSI can be done by lowering pH and TA. If you use Pool Math, enable CSI tracking. Here are a couple articles that may help you understand.



See this article on waterline scale:


Bead blasting is the most effective way to remove waterline scale. I paid $4 per liner foot a few years ago. Waterline scale can be minimized by maintaining a negative CSI.

My recommendation. Price out bead blasting. They'll need to drain down one foot of water or so. Ask them to drain down enough to get your CH in range (while they're at it). We can work out those numbers later based on your fill water CH but figure around 50% drain. You may need to pay a few dollars extra. Find a way to top off with softened water and you may not need to drain again.
 
Thank you for your quick and detailed response, Rancho!!

I had some time to do water tests for different water sources at my house, and below are my results:

Tap Water Outdoor (My current water source to add water to pool, and I do have a water softener at home)
PH 8
TA 100
CH 75

Tap Water indoor (Kitchen)
PH 8
TA 125
CH 50

RO Water (Drinking water)
PH 7
TA 20
CH 10

Surprisingly, the CH from my water source is at 75, and the CH from my pool result is at 625 in my last test. I guess the CH level just raise over time. Anyway, I have started to add muriatic acid trying to lower my pH to the 7.0 - 7.2 lever and planning to get a solar water fountain to add some aeration to the water. I should repeat the steps until my CH lowers to around 250-300 level, correct?

Regarding the waterline scale, is there a more cost-effective way or something I can do myself without a vendor? I have seen some online videos where people spray some muriatic acid or some solution to the affected area and brush off the scale. Just wondering if this method would work or if other DIY option is available. Thanks again!

Mike
 
I have started to add muriatic acid trying to lower my pH to the 7.0 - 7.2 lever and planning to get a solar water fountain to add some aeration to the water. I should repeat the steps until my CH lowers to around 250-300 level, correct?
This method is used for lowering TA. Lowering TA itself will help reduce scale in the SWG and will help to keep CSI in negative range.

The only way to reduce CH in pool water is through RO or water exchange. 650 is reaching the upper end of a manageable level.

Your fill water is CH is not "high," but even at 75 ppm will continue to increase the level in the pool. The TA level will work against you in bit, but you should be able to reduce TA with bit of work.

I assume the outdoor water is not softened. On some installs, the softened water bypasses the kitchen sink as there no real need for it there. Try testing a source from a bathroom sink, tub or shower. I would expect more of a difference between softened and unsoftened water.
Regarding the waterline scale, is there a more cost-effective way or something I can do myself without a vendor? I have seen some online videos where people spray some muriatic acid or some solution to the affected area and brush off the scale. Just wondering if this method would work or if other DIY option is available. Thanks again!
I haven't had much luck in removing scale from tile using MA. You can try mixing one part of MA and 3 to 4 parts water in a spray or squeeze bottle. A pumice stone may work, but it's real slow-going. Make sure it doesn't damage your tile. Here's a recommendation for a product from another post. I haven't tried it:

 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.