Where to plug in a Jandy Aquapure salt cell into the control panel

The wires are green and black/white.

So, green goes to green and black/white goes to black white.

The new cord comes with red and blue wires and red goes to green and blue goes to black/white.

The green wire has a short red piece (as you can see in the picture) and the black/white wire has a short blue piece to indicate which is which.

In any case, it will work either way.

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Given there were two cords for the cell, looks like its been replaced once. My neighbor moved in a couple years ago. So the cell is maybe three years old or so? At least we know two years and never been cleaned, and if he had it at 95% the whole time, maybe that doesn't bode well. But if its only the sensor, and he can get another year or two out of the cell, that would be beneficial for him. If it turns out the cell is bad, the difference between buying them a la carte may not be a huge price difference than buying the kit. I guess he has more to gain than lose going that route (other than losing some time). I'll start pricing that out for him. Meanwhile, I had him buy a Taylor test kit, he just downloaded the Pool Math app, so I'll be coaching him along and I told him to read Pool School. I am learning about SWG as well, as I bought a CircuPool RJ45 PLUS and hope to have it installed this week, converting from a non-salt pool, so there will be a bit of a learning curve for me as well.
 
Press the Select button really hard for about 10 seconds to see if it will change.

Try unplugging the trisensor and reconnecting it after about 5 minutes.
 
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If the Aquapure is problematic, is there a good drop in replacement alternative to a whole new SWG system that costs around the same as the Aquapure cell and sensor replacement, that is less trouble prone? It sounds like in order to test the PIB he first needs a functional cell and sensor, correct? I would hate for him to replace both then only to find his PIB was bad too.
 

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Here is a test procedure you can do to check the PIB (Power Interface Board).

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Ran the test and his power interface board is fine. Going to order the tri-flow sensor, since we know it is bad, and then we will see if his cell is good or not. Just confirming that this is the correct replacement. The part number is different but I think that is because the older version was faulty and this is the newer replacement. Is this correct?



https://www.amazon.com/Zodiac-R0452...t=&hvlocphy=9025154&hvtargid=pla-634847876077
 
Any thoughts on that other link? It has clear plastic so you can see if it is generating chlorine.



Also, there is an extra cord for the sensor or cell (the black one for the thee prong connection) right next to the cord that is plugged in, indicating the cell has been changed at least once. Was hoping to see if he has any more life in that cell before buying a new one. If he were to buy the combo cell and sensor (looks like about a $300 savings), and then determined he had life in the existing cell, assuming he could start with the new cell and port and shelve the older one, then use that down the road? Would hate to buy a new cell when his is still good.
 
R0452400 is correct for the cell.

R0452500 is correct for the sensor.

H0440600 is not a useable part number; I don't know why it is on the sensor.

PLC1400 is correct for the kit, which includes the cell, trisensor and power cord.

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For the cell, R0452400 and for the sensor H0440600
 
The cell is not new, but I don't know how old it is or how much life is left.

I suspect that it is the original cell from 2015.

You can use the old one until it dies or use it as a backup or whatever you like.

You can buy just a sensor if you want to go that way, but you don't even know if the cell works or if it is dead.
 

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