Fighting High PH & TA

Triumph65

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Gold Supporter
May 10, 2018
123
Wimberley Texas
Pool Size
48000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We had new plaster last June so we are I year out on the plaster. Large pool (48,000 gallons) details in signature.

I have been fighting high PH & TA. It seems my PH wants to rise to 8+ and my TA to
100+. If I add a gallon of Muriatic Acid I can get down to the 7.4/80 range but it won’t stay there longer than 1 day. I can keep putting a gallon of acid in every 2-3 days.
Water features rarely used.
According to both CSI and LSI calculators I am scaling and also have a white line on my tiles.
Current water test:
FCL 3.0
PH 8.0
ALK 100
CH 458
Borate 44

Fill water could be a problem. We are in Texas Hill Country and it’s usually hot & dry so I lose a considerable amount to evaporation.
Fill Water values:
PH 7.2
ALK 328
CH 186

I also have the option of using softened water for fill/top off of that would help.

Any help or suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!




Central Texas. In ground 48,000 gallons. New plaster July 2021, Finest Finish Micro Fusion French Gray. (2) Pentair Intelliflo 011056, (2) Triton TR 100-C Commercial Sand Filters, (2) Waterco Multi Cyclone 50 Pre-Filters, 15 Gallon Rola-Chem liquid chlorine feeder, Polaris 280, Pentair Warrior SE
 
The precision of some of your reported values suggest that you're relying on pool store testing. TFP recommends you use a test kit at home ... go here for more info.

You need to determine your CYA value to determine the appropriate free chlorine level, but if the 3 ppm you report is accurate, you almost certainly need to add chlorine. This is the most important thing right now, pH and TA are a longer term concern.

If your fill water alkalinity really is above 300, you'll constantly be fighting to keep pH in the 7s. That will take a good amount of acid, especially with how large your pool is. You'll want to figure out the concentration of the acid you're using (usually it's either 14.5% or 31.45%).

Read through Pool School (link on the left side of the screen) to get up to speed on all of the details and recommendations.
I also have the option of using softened water
Definitely use it for refill...otherwise your CH will rise over time and scaling will get worse.
 
@nobody291 -
I have he Taylor K-2005C test kit and the TFP test kit. I used the TFP test kit for years and the Taylor for the last years. The last pool test results were using the Taylor kit and validated by my pool technician using his Spin Touch. I would never trust the spin touch results unless validated by TF or Taylor testing.
I never go to the pool store or use their testing. Why do you suggest the testing is not accurate?

I test the PH and TA every day.
As far as the chlorine I test that everyday as well. The 3ppm is at the lower end of the suggested scale in the Pool Math app. Mine usually ranges between 3-4ppm. I have a Rolachem liquid auto doser for the chlorine.

Just trying to figure out how to stop fighting PH and TA daily, as adding a gallon of acid every 2-3 days is expensive.
 
TA test value is multiple of 10. So 90, 100, 120 etc. CH test is either multiple of 10 or 25 depending upon sample size. I have the Taylor K-2006C

If your fill water TA is that high >300 ppm then every time you add fill water you’re adding that much TA. Using a water softener will reduce the calcium hardness to zero which will not raise your current CH in your pool but it doesn’t lower pH or TA.
 
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Why do you suggest the testing is not accurate?

It wasn't my intent to offend you, I was just trying to help.

ALK 328
CH 186

These values would be difficult to obtain from a TF-100, that's why I thought it was possible that you were using a pool store.
 
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I should have posted my test results and not the results from the spin touch. My results agreed with his from the spin touch
I can see why you thought I went to the pool store, sorry for my confusion.

My problem remains though. I test the PH & TA every day and I’m fighting those numbers.
 
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