Questions/Concerns - Prior to Cantilevered Deck Installation

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ngsm13

ngsm13

Bronze Supporter
May 17, 2021
101
Cincinnati, OH
Pool Size
19500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello,

Looking to get some input in current state, mostly to calm my nerves, prior to cantilevered deck installation on my gunite pool. It will be poured as one pour, and 'attach' to an existing patio separated by a speed drain. I've reviewed the materials on TFP, and the Pool Engineering Inc site here: https://www.pooleng.com/wp-content/uploads/280.png

Concerned about lack of backfill, my pool shell has sat for ~60-days. It has been trenchs/plumbed for ~30-days. It's just been sitting, with no backfill for that time. I am thinking that proper back-fill needs time to settle before framing? Also, interested to see how they plan to decouple waterline tile as it's installed now.

I've attached sketch and real pics, let me know your thoughts. Thank you!


My proposed design sketch:
IMG_20220608_0004.jpg


Current State of my backyard:

PXL_20220608_154233047.MP.jpg

PXL_20220608_153311465.jpg

PXL_20220608_153214683.jpg

PXL_20220608_153235547.MP.jpg

PXL_20220608_153334584.jpg
 
Cantilevered_Coping.png


The decking is also used as the coping which is placed in one continuous pour to create a seamless looking deck. Prior to pouring the deck, the level of the grade should be brought up to become level with the top of the bond beam and be very well compacted.

A “decoupling” expansion joint should extend across the entire width of the top of the bond beam to allow the deck to move independent of the pool shell. This joint can be created with a 4mm plastic sheet or 2 layers of roofing felt underlayment.

It is very important that the waterline tile is installed after the deck is placed so there is no chance of the deck expanding and popping off the tile (see tile placement in the diagram). The tile can be grouted as usual but the top joint between the deck and tile should be filled with a flexible sealant that is not silicone based.

Expansion Joints and Coping - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
ajw22 said:
Cantilevered_Coping.png


The decking is also used as the coping which is placed in one continuous pour to create a seamless looking deck. Prior to pouring the deck, the level of the grade should be brought up to become level with the top of the bond beam and be very well compacted.

A “decoupling” expansion joint should extend across the entire width of the top of the bond beam to allow the deck to move independent of the pool shell. This joint can be created with a 4mm plastic sheet or 2 layers of roofing felt underlayment.

It is very important that the waterline tile is installed after the deck is placed so there is no chance of the deck expanding and popping off the tile (see tile placement in the diagram). The tile can be grouted as usual but the top joint between the deck and tile should be filled with a flexible sealant that is not silicone based.

Expansion Joints and Coping - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...

Yessir, I have read this and digested it. I'm am observing to make sure the decoupling occurs at the bond beam. But you can see me tile is already installed. Should I be concerned or request any changes now, before decking?

Thanks!
 
Does any of the tile lip above the bond beam?

I think you have to have a meeting with the builder and deck contractor and discuss how they will handle the situation.

And then inspect the expansion joint adn confirm you can slide a piece of cardboard in the expansion joint.
 
ajw22 said:
Does any of the tile lip above the bond beam?

I think you have to have a meeting with the builder and deck contractor and discuss how they will handle the situation.

And then inspect the expansion joint adn confirm you can slide a piece of cardboard in the expansion joint.
Click to expand...
Yes it does. Pic below.

I've printed out the actual preferred method, and will be following as they set up framing, etc.

How about backfill? They have not backfilled the trench dug around the shell, how long should it be allowed to settle before pour decking?




PXL_20220519_193125431.jpg
 
Your bond beam has not been designed for cantilevered coping.

You can't have those rebar stubs sticking up as they will couple the bond beam to the deck which is what you don't want. The cantilevered deck needs to be able to slide on top of the bond beam and tile without one touching the other.

I would change plans and do a precast coping.

The way your tile and bond beam is you are setup for problems.
 
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This is one way to keep the bond beam independent of the coping.
Your concern about the backfill is legit, it may not need time to settle if it’s been tamped properly to achieve the PSI needed but how is that accomplished?
 

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ajw22 said:
Your bond beam has not been designed for cantilevered coping.

You can't have those rebar stubs sticking up as they will couple the bond beam to the deck which is what you don't want. The cantilevered deck needs to be able to slide on top of the bond beam and tile without one touching the other.

I would change plans and do a precast coping.

The way your tile and bond beam is you are setup for problems.
Click to expand...
As it stands, I agree.

I was thinking that the rebar could be cut-off flush, then leveling mortar applied, then the bond breaker (like the plastic or felt)? Of course I would need to follow closely, and ensure PB is in-line with this method.

Thanks.
 
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