- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,576
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I'm not so sure, since it holds a high FC level, doesn't have CCs, and CYA is holding too.
Pool teal and cloudy.
- Thread starter Mweltz88
- Start date
Shouldn't be ammonia, as their FC holds over 30ppm
I'm leaning towards iron and definitely algae (previously)
I’ve tested for ammonia with pet store tests and used my automated testing unit for my reef tank. Both show none, plus I’m not losing CYA or FC very fast. Still at 20 ppm FC now
We don't really know if it's holding a high FC, or if he's just dumping in a lot of chlorine (well, we know he's dumping in a lot of chlorine), since he hasn't mentioned doing an OCLT. This is the key. You've got to kill the algae infection. Until the infection is stopped, as evidenced by a successful OCLT, nothing else really matters (unless there's metals or ammonia - neither of which I have any experience with).
Until you kill the infection, it doesn't matter what's going on with your filter. The filter only gets the dead stuff.
Why has it been so hard to kill the infection? Perhaps the low CYA was allowing too much chlorine to burn off during the day so you weren't keeping the FC over the SLAM level (unless you were checking and adding chlorine frequently throughout the day). If this was the case, now that you're up to 30, it should go better. Alternatively, high Ph can impede chlorine so maybe your Ph is very high. Then again, I've experienced this kind of behavior before I learned about TFP when my CYA was very high. These last two would point to the recommendations to let the FC come down to a level where the Ph and CYA can be reliably tested.
Until you kill the infection, it doesn't matter what's going on with your filter. The filter only gets the dead stuff.
Why has it been so hard to kill the infection? Perhaps the low CYA was allowing too much chlorine to burn off during the day so you weren't keeping the FC over the SLAM level (unless you were checking and adding chlorine frequently throughout the day). If this was the case, now that you're up to 30, it should go better. Alternatively, high Ph can impede chlorine so maybe your Ph is very high. Then again, I've experienced this kind of behavior before I learned about TFP when my CYA was very high. These last two would point to the recommendations to let the FC come down to a level where the Ph and CYA can be reliably tested.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,576
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
CYA can be tested at high FC levels. (pH does need FC to be 10 or less to test.)
Continuing to slam, added the floculant and shut pump off last night. Pool is still cloudy but better, very very fine layer of dust on the bottom
Wobblerlorri
Bronze Supporter
- Apr 16, 2019
- 2,010
- Pool Size
- 4024
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
Be sure when you vacuum the settled floc that you vacuum to waste only. You'll gum up your sand and have to replace it if you don't.
Not overly thrilled you chose to go the floc route.
Not overly thrilled you chose to go the floc route.
Ok gonna start vacuuming now, 24 hours after floc and pump off… is this just so fine the filter is missing it, or a filtration issue? Pool is perfectly clear now just dust/dirt all over the bottom 
Wobblerlorri
Bronze Supporter
- Apr 16, 2019
- 2,010
- Pool Size
- 4024
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
DO NOT VAC TO YOUR FILTER!!!!!!! It will gunk up your sand and you'll have to replace it. Vac to waste ONLY!!