How long for water to clear after stabilizing?

dschmitt

Member
Apr 16, 2022
23
Roswell, GA
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hi all,

Newish salt water pool owner (came with the house we bought last summer). I was able to maintain it quite well through the summer, and continued to do so over the winter. I had a couple of issues over the winter where the chlorine was way too low, but between chlorine tablets and shock was able to get it back into shape.

This week the FC dropped to pretty much zero. Took a sample to a local pool store and it showed I'm low on salt. Put in the recommended 3 bags, super chlorinated for a few hours, and today the FC was back to normal levels (matching the 4.4 color on my test kit). The only remaining issue is that the water seems to still have debris in it. I cleaned the filter 3-4 weeks ago, and run the pump 8 hours per day. I've been skimming and running my vacuum, and brushing as well. During the day, the water seems clear, but at night when the lights are on, you can see small particles floating, like the water is dusty, if that makes any sense.

It's heavy pollen season here in Georgia, so I'm wondering if that may be the culprit and maybe I need to run the pump for more than 8 hours. But I'm not sure what to do.

Here's the test results from yesterday morning:
FC 0.71
TC 0.71
pH 7.6
TA 93
CH 225
CYA 83
Iron 0
Copper 0.1
Phosphates 748
Salt 2632

As noted above, this evening, the FC was 4.4.
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: So here at TFP, we can assure you the store testing, products, and advice are not working. We emphasize the importance of proper water testing at home with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit. In addition, their advice to super shock and add over-priced fluids to the water will not kill or remove your algae issue. Pollen or mechanical filtering are not to blame, it's all about chemistry. There really is nothing I would trust in those store test results. I would say this however, your CYA may indeed be very high and that means your FC cannot keep pace. You can see that on our FC/CYA Levels. You won't find that chart at the pool store, and your SWG will never keep up. For now, I would order one of those proper test kits noted above and add one gallon of liquid chlorine to the water now and each day thereafter until the kit arrives. Once you get the test kit, post a full set of water test results and we'll show you how easy it can be to maintain your pool water. The link below is a great resource as well.

 
Thanks for everyone's response. I got the Tf-100 kit today and tested the water. Here's where we are at:

FC: 8.0
CC: 0
pH: 7.8
TA: 300
CH: 350
CYA: 70
Salt: 4600ppm
CSI: .53

The CYA I'm a little unsure of. I did it twice and each time at 80 I could still see just a shadow of the dot and it took it to 70 for it to disappear.

Thoughts on where to go from here? Pool Math is flagging TA and Salt.
 
Took a sample to a local pool store and it showed I'm low on salt. Put in the recommended 3 bags
I got the Tf-100 kit today and tested the water. Here's where we are at:

Salt: 4600ppm

This highlights the importance of testing the water yourself. You didn't need to add 3 bags of salt.

What's the TA, CH, and pH of your fill water? If there wasn't a testing error, your TA is very high.
 
This highlights the importance of testing the water yourself. You didn't need to add 3 bags of salt.

What's the TA, CH, and pH of your fill water? If there wasn't a testing error, your TA is very high.
I don’t know the chemistry of my fill water, but I did not drain the pool and haven’t added any this season, so I don’t think it’s relevant.
I will retest the TA though, just to make sure I didn’t make a rookie mistake.
 
That TA is suspect with the PH @7.8
TA is tricky, uses the 25ml line and on new stock can have static for the first few tests causing the droplets to be smaller thus bringing the count higher. So I'd redo that one and wipe the tip with a moist cloth between drops being careful not to overly force the droplet. Make sure bottle is perfectly inverted and not sideways at all. The speed stir helps with test accuracy.
 
That TA is suspect with the PH @7.8
TA is tricky, uses the 25ml line and on new stock can have static for the first few tests causing the droplets to be smaller thus bringing the count higher. So I'd redo that one and wipe the tip with a moist cloth between drops being careful not to overly force the droplet. Make sure bottle is perfectly inverted and not sideways at all. The speed stir helps with test accuracy.
Thanks for this -- very helpful. Here's the results from today. I was much more careful with adding drops, and wiping with a damp cloth between drops for the TA.
FC: 6.0
CC: 0
ph: 8.2
TA: 120
CYA: 70
Salt: 4000

Based on this, seems like my main issue is the pH. I need to bring it down. Correct?
 
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Based on this, seems like my main issue is the pH. I need to bring it down. Correct?
Yes. :goodjob: I'd take the pH down to about 7.2. It will rise again soon enough on its own. Water crystal clear down to the deepest part?
 
Thanks. Water is clear, but not crystal clear to the deepest part. Most evident at night when lights are on and you can see the cloudiness around the lights and floating on the top some sort of flaky almost clear stuff.
 

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I don’t know the chemistry of my fill water, but I did not drain the pool and haven’t added any this season, so I don’t think it’s relevant.
It's beneficial to know the effects of adding fill water, particularly if it has high TA or CH. You'll add plenty of fill water over the summer. Use your TF-100.

I will retest the TA though, just to make sure I didn’t make a rookie mistake.
Glad you retested and measured 120.
 
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No, not yet. Just got my kit yesterday so wanted first to get a baseline. Will do an OCLT as soon as possible.
In that case, as noted above go ahead and lower the pH to about 7.2. That will work either way. I would also ensure the FC is raised a little more just because of the suspected cloudiness and in preparation for a good OCLT test. You don't need a really high FC level for the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, but you don't want it too low either in case your FC drops overnight. A nighttime-starting FC anywhere between 7 - 9 would be good for you. Be sure the SWG is OFF at least 30 minutes before you take your first water sample. If you have any questions about the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test let us know.
 
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I completed the OLCT and showed a drop of 2.5, so definitely time to SLAM. Started last night. PoolMath said I needed 7 gal of bleach to get to FC target level of 26 based on CYA of 65. I only had 6 on hand, so I turned off the chlorinator, set pump to run continuously, skimmed and brushed pool, and put in the six gal of bleach with plan to retest this morning and go get more bleach to true it up to target.

Tested this morning and FC is 35! So, some questions:
  • How concerned should I be about this high FC level? Do I need to drain and refill to get FC down?
  • How could I have been so off? PoolMath calculations have been spot on for other things, such as muriatic acid to reduce TA. The bleach I used is Clorox germicidal, 7.75%.
  • Once SLAM is done, do I keep the chlorinator off until FC returns to normal everyday levels?
Thanks!
 
How concerned should I be about this high FC level? Do I need to drain and refill to get FC down?
Not a big deal with a plaster pool. The FC will fall on its own soon.
How could I have been so off?
Volume of pool?
Once SLAM is done, do I keep the chlorinator off until FC returns to normal everyday levels?
Sure. Start the SWCG when the FC gets to just above Target level for your CYA.
 
Latest update: pool much clearer, but at night with lights I can still see small particles, though not as dense and cloudy as before (see attached). I was out of town and haven’t done OLCT for a few days (not ideal, I know). This evening FC was 20 and CYA 70, so I’m below the FC 26 target. Here are my questions:
  • Should I add the bleach tonight or wait until morning so I can do an OLCT (I’m thinking add the bleach since it’s clear I’m not done with the SLAM)
  • Once I’m done with the SLAM, at what level of FC is it safe to swim?
thanks as always for your help!

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