New to Me Pool, Filter Fitting Leaks!

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LandCruiser

Active member
May 11, 2021
27
Norcal
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Installed a AG pool last year and learned a ton here. Just moved to a new home with an IG pool that was installed many years ago and I've got a mess of problems to fix, first up is the pool equipment plumbing, namely a leak at the filter fitting shown by the red arrow in the photo. There have been a host of other issues with this home so I might need some extra hand-holding here, all this stuff is stressing me out and making me feel like I'm losing my mind.

Questions:
1. Is this plumbing configuration OK as pictured? Any glaring problems?
2. Obviously there is enough piping to cut the pipe and install new fittings but I don't know what fittings these are at the Hayward Filter (please help me with a link?) and 2, in the future I would like to convert this pool to salt water chlorination as that is what I ran for my AG pool with success. I want to take into consideration the length of pipe spacing I will need for a CircuPool CORE-35.
3. Should I space the filter back further to have a longer pipe run from the 2 outlet pipes with the valve that sends to the pool or pool and waterfall?
4. Process for cutting these pipes and how to glue? What glue to use? I'm concerned the pipes could be brittle with age so hand saw?

Bonus Question: Can I operate that Jandy valve with the pump running or am I supposed to turn off the pump like I had to with my AG pool Sand filter multiport valve?
 

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Before you begin cutting and installing new fittings I would get new O rings for the filter unions and see if that fixes the leak. Hand tighten the unions and don’t over tighten them with a wrench.

Moving the filter back is not going to accomplish anything.

Post better pics of the output side of the filter.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
ajw22 said:
Before you begin cutting and installing new fittings I would get new O rings for the filter unions and see if that fixes the leak. Hand tighten the unions and don’t over tighten them with a wrench.

Moving the filter back is not going to accomplish anything.

Post better pics of the output side of the filter.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Appreciate the response. The water appears to originate from the white coupler where it meets the black ABS and not from the union collar. Doesn't seem likely that the o-ring could make any difference? Seems like it wasn't properly glued but I'm not quite sure how that fitting started. I've seen some fittings that look like the white coupler is pre-installed?

Reasons I thought to move the filter back was to give me a longer pipe section in which to install the salt water chlorine generator in the near future.
 
LandCruiser said:
I've seen some fittings that look like the white coupler is pre-installed?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure if this answers your question, but I'll give it a shot...It looks like your system is plumbed with 2.5" PVC.

The filter and pump unions are designed accommodate both 2" and 2.5" plumbing systems. For 2" systems, a 2" pipe slips into the union. For 2.5" plumbing, a 2.5" fitting (coupler/elbow) slips over the union. If the coupler on the return side of the filter is leaking, you'll have to replace the union to fix it. Search for a union kit by filter model number.

If you're gonna add a SWG and need more room, there's nothing wrong with your plan to move the filter back.

You can use the Jandy diverter valve while the pump is running. As the valve turns, water will be directed to both return sides so water flow won't be restricted.
 
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If all you want to do is repair the leak then try this first…

From PVC Repair - Further Reading

For a leak at a joint on the pressure side near the pump, which you have, run the pump and have some "marine epoxy" mixed and ready, then wait for the leak.

Shut off the pump and quickly dry where the leak is. Apply the epoxy immediately.

Once the pump is off, the water in the filter is no longer pressurized wants to fall out, but atmospheric pressure needs to get in for that to happen. This results in a suction situation were the leak is. The atmosphere will "push" the epoxy into the gap where it was leaking. It may take 2 applications.

Let it set for a day before starting pump.

This works like magic, and has fixed leaks that otherwise would have been a major undertaking. Mainly due to access issues.

Look for LOCTITE marine epoxy, widely available. Slathering PVC glue on the joint can also work.

If you want to make room for a SWG then I would…
  • Move both pump and filter back and replumb from suction line to return line.
  • Pentair recommends the intake line to the pump should be a straight pipe of at least 5X pipe size, or about 10 inches, for best pump life and suction.
  • Rotate the filter 90 degrees or 180 degrees so the connections point towards the pump or the door.
  • Then you have plenty of room with the piping from the filter output to the return valve to fit a SWG any number of ways.
 
Last edited:
ajw22 said:
If all you want to do is repair the leak then try this first…

From PVC Repair - Further Reading

For a leak at a joint on the pressure side near the pump, which you have, run the pump and have some "marine epoxy" mixed and ready, then wait for the leak.

Shut off the pump and quickly dry where the leak is. Apply the epoxy immediately.

Once the pump is off, the water in the filter is no longer pressurized wants to fall out, but atmospheric pressure needs to get in for that to happen. This results in a suction situation were the leak is. The atmosphere will "push" the epoxy into the gap where it was leaking. It may take 2 applications.

Let it set for a day before starting pump.

This works like magic, and has fixed leaks that otherwise would have been a major undertaking. Mainly due to access issues.

Look for LOCTITE marine epoxy, widely available. Slathering PVC glue on the joint can also work.

If you want to make room for a SWG then I would…
  • Move both pump and filter back and replumb from suction line to return line.
  • Pentair recommends the intake line to the pump should be a straight pipe of at least 5X pipe size, or about 10 inches, for best pump life and suction.
  • Rotate the filter 90 degrees or 180 degrees so the connections point towards the pump or the door.
  • Then you have plenty of room with the piping from the filter output to the return valve to fit a SWG any number of ways.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the link! I was reading it earlier and am confident to try the marine epoxy for now since I'm not ready to drop the coin for the SWG just yet. I am curious about your comments about rotating the filter, wouldn't that create the need for more 90* bends and more complicated plumbing?

Thanks for the explanation of the intake line length, I had read that in the manual but didn't quite understand it. That was another reason I was wondering if I needed to lengthen my plumbing though. Looks like I probably only have about 6" of length or less. Unfortunately, the previous homeowner cut a lot of corners on things and I wasn't well versed enough to know about it or didn't have the time to ask questions given a competitive housing market.
 
Give your pump as much of a straight suction pipe as you can.

A few 90's make no difference.
 
Ok, so you were right, the o-ring was completely destroyed, 1/4 inch section was rolled over the edge.

That said, things have gone from bad to worse. I replaced the o-ring and now the DEX360F bulkhead fitting is leaking at the housing.

Is there an o-ring on the inside of the bulkhead too? Do I just need to tighten it? Hayward doesn't even make this fitting anymore it seems. No idea how it attaches, the inside of the filter has other hoses covering the attachment. 😩 Help!
 
I don't know the inards of that filter.

This what you need?

abespools.com

HAYWARD BULKHEAD FITTING FINE THREADED (OBSOLETE) DEX360F

HAYWARD BULKHEAD FITTING FINE THREADED (OBSOLETE) PRE-OWNED/USED/INSPECTED If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please feel free to reach out to us.
abespools.com abespools.com
 

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ajw22 said:
I don't know the inards of that filter.

This what you need?

abespools.com

HAYWARD BULKHEAD FITTING FINE THREADED (OBSOLETE) DEX360F

HAYWARD BULKHEAD FITTING FINE THREADED (OBSOLETE) PRE-OWNED/USED/INSPECTED If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please feel free to reach out to us.
abespools.com abespools.com
Click to expand...
Possibly, I have to find my channel locks that are large enough to unscrew the fitting. Have to see if it's cracked or just needs an o-ring. The way it's now separating from the filter body under pressure, I think it's cracked. Pool may be down for a while. 😕
 
Buy a new filter. It sounds like your filter has reached the end of its life.
 
ajw22 said:
Buy a new filter. It sounds like your filter has reached the end of its life.
Click to expand...
With all the unexpected expenses we've incurred with this home, we may have to limp this filter a bit longer but after pulling it apart and seeing all the JB weld on the internals, I'm sure you are correct. I saw a YouTube video of a pool guy lamenting the Hayward filters for the bulkhead fittings being so finicky and failing if touched.
 
I pulled the outlet fitting, found it to be cracked at the threads which is allowing the o-ring to pull away from the body and leak. Unfortunately basically all the parts for the C3000 filter are no longer made. I found a used outlet bulkhead fitting and I figured I would try to replace some other parts that are cobbled together with JBweld, I even found the bottom manifold new and used but unfortunately, I cannot for the life of me find a CX3000FB inlet elbow on the inside and the previous owner decided to GLUE the inlet elbow into the bottom manifold which I'm sure is why the threads cracked on the bulkhead as the inlet elbow isn't allowed to slide up and down anymore so the weight of the filters on the manifold puts pressure on the bulkhead fitting threads. :(

I really hate when people do things wrong out of convenience (or stupidity). This is not how I operate AT ALL and I'm finding numerous examples throughout the house where the previous owner cut corners. Sad.

I'll get a new filter eventually but $1200+ is a bit steep at the moment. $30 used bulkhead and a new o-ring kit is going to have to get me through. I'll have to ignore the cobbled together lower manifold since I can't get the inlet elbow I need to replace it.
 
LandCruiser said:
I'll get a new filter eventually but $1200+ is a bit steep at the moment. $30 used bulkhead and a new o-ring kit is going to have to get me through
Click to expand...
Hence why they went with redneck engineering in the first place. I don't condone the previous repairs, but I get it. Just sayin. :)

Multiply that by everything else in the house. Half from financial need an half from not knowing better.

Keep us posted and we'll help try to get you through it until the dust settles. (y)
 
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