400BTU Hayward Heater not coming on…just replaced display & control boards

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tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
2,185
Houston, TX
Well, just replaced the 2 boards for the infamous CE error and afterwards, everything worked fine. See thread link below.

I set into bO (bypass operation) and heater worked fine again. I just tried running it and nothing happens at all. It says on display as shown in pic. What do I need to do? Thank you

[I now have all the new heater parts] Is this new heater board part defective?

Hello to all, Just received a heater display board for Hayward’s famous CE error. Upon inspection, noticed there’s a distinct raised area that’s “bubbled” and still seems to be soft. (See arrow that shows the start of the bubbled area). The portion lower of this area is both flat and dry...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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I’ll Ck and post back mike, thx

Ok, i went to keypad snd used mode button to change to spa,,,it stated bO b4 i did that. Once in spa mode, i turned on heater and it fired up w the normal delay time / working fine now

From the inside remote or service prologic panel, if i put in spa mode, pump running, then hit heater, nothing happened as it always used to do..

Thoughts ?
 

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That’s ok Mike, thanks.

James, does going to the heater keypad, then using mode button from Standby to SPA, then at main panel hit HEATER and it comes on, change your trouble shooting path? The suction/returns were already in SPA Mode snd FILTER PUMP was at 2933 RPM. Once in SPA MODE, fired up perfectly
 
That’s great James. Thanks.

The first video is replacing the pressure switch, and second is testing the micro limit switch. It would seem to test the micro limit switch first by pulling both terminals and connecting them w a piece of copper eire. If Lo goes away, then that’s it, if the heater activates when turned on. But if the MLS does not remove Lo, then i know at least the switch is bad since the heater will turn on at the pad, correct?

Thanks again
 

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tstex said:
If Lo goes away, then that’s it, if the heater activates when turned on.
Click to expand...
Just see if the LO goes away.

If the LO goes away, then the switch might be bad.

Do not run the heater with a jumped pressure switch.
tstex said:
But if the MLS does not remove Lo, then i know at least the switch is bad since the heater will turn on at the pad, correct?
Click to expand...
You can check for continuity at the pressure switch terminals to see if the resistance goes from O.L (Open Line) to 0 ohms when the pump turns on.

1634504709446.png
 
This is the pressure switch.

When there is enough pressure, the center plunger (red dot) will move up and press the switch button (blue dot) to the closed position.

You can see the switch button being pressed up and you can hear it click.

You can also manually press the switch button up to close the pressure switch.

Do not run the heater with a jumped pressure switch.

1634506122365.png
 
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