Water draining from spa every day

Your spa drain has plumbing under the cover that goes back to the 3-way valve at the pad before the pump. So if you have the valve closed back at the pad, and it seals properly, you should not see dye get sucked into the drain. If it does, then the drain line may have a leak.
Not sure I understand this. In normal circumstances I don't close the spa valve, meaning when the pump is running water is flowing thru the jets into the spa, so you saying I need to turn this off when I test? But what about testing it when it's open which is the normal way it operates?
 
In that example, I'm referring to the 3-way valve "before" the pump (suction). If you ever need to isolate the line from the spa drain to the pump, that's the valve that has to be set to closed for the spa. It has nothing to do with the return jets. The 3-way valve "after" the filter is the one controlling water back to the spa jets. Make sense?
 
In that example, I'm referring to the 3-way valve "before" the pump (suction). If you ever need to isolate the line from the spa drain to the pump, that's the valve that has to be set to closed for the spa. It has nothing to do with the return jets. The 3-way valve "after" the filter is the one controlling water back to the spa jets. Make sense?
Are you talking about this? If I set the handle to turn spa jets off (which is what I did last night for the test) then nothing flows into the spa?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3530.JPG
    IMG_3530.JPG
    441.5 KB · Views: 3
In that example, I'm referring to the 3-way valve "before" the pump (suction). If you ever need to isolate the line from the spa drain to the pump, that's the valve that has to be set to closed for the spa. It has nothing to do with the return jets. The 3-way valve "after" the filter is the one controlling water back to the spa jets. Make sense?
Oh u mean this part.Normally the spa part is always off - the only time I would put it on is if I need to suck water from the spa which it does if I pit it on.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3529.JPG
    IMG_3529.JPG
    448.8 KB · Views: 4
Exactly! I just wanted to highlight that fact during your weekend exploration. While we have discussed a potential leak (dye test and plugging the drain, etc), I am more suspicious about the valves allowing water to go back & forth as opposed to a true leak because if you have a leak in your spa your pool water level should be going down. But just wanted you to have those tools just in case you need them. My gut tells me it's the valves.
Okay, so this is the 3 way valve I should open up? I thought it was the one where the check valve sits?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3529.JPG
    IMG_3529.JPG
    448.8 KB · Views: 2
Okay, so this is the 3 way valve I should open up? I thought it was the one where the check valve sits?
It all depends on what you are trying to do at the moment. If you ever need to isolate (water to/from the spa, just remember:
- 3-way valve before the pump: controls suction from spa drain and pool
- 3-way valve after the pump controls water flow back to pool and spa jets

For this weekend, since you do not seem to be losing any water in the pool, I would focus on inspecting those 3-way valves really well for damage and lube to see if that helps control the water shifting (lowering) from the spa. No need to go too much further into leak scenarios unless needed later.
 
No, that's your return line 3-way valve back to the pool & spa. In the drain line scenario above I was referring to above, the 3-way valve before the pump is closed if you ever need to close water from the drain.
Sorry I'm lost here and confused. It's not the 3 way valve next to the pump but it is? I apologize but I am not following you. Can you post the pic of the one I am suppose to check?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
It all depends on what you are trying to do at the moment. If you ever need to isolate (water to/from the spa, just remember:
- 3-way valve before the pump: controls suction from spa drain and pool
- 3-way valve after the pump controls water flow back to pool and spa jets

For this weekend, since you do not seem to be losing any water in the pool, I would focus on inspecting those 3-way valves really well for damage and lube to see if that helps control the water shifting (lowering) from the spa. No need to go too much further into leak scenarios unless needed later.
Thanks, will do. I just heard back from the pool tech that had initially installed the check valve and advised me to run that test last night for the check valve. His advice, and I quote...
"Sounds like the Jandy valve in front of the pump is leaking. You can remove the 8 screws in the lid and remove the internal diverter. If the gasket on the curved door is damaged, water will leak through that gasket. If the diverter is damaged, it can be replaced, but it has to be the same valve manufacturer (Jandy?) and size (1.5"?). Take the diverter to the pool store to confirm."

I guess this is similar to what you are saying re. 3-way valve?
Thanks
 
You not going to believe this. This morning I wake up and the spa level has not gone down ?? (Pump ran last night). I have no idea what is going on here. This has happened in the past where it would go down erratically.
I will still work on things on Sunday - perhaps it is some debris somewhere causing these erratic issues. Perhaps it has something to do with pool vs spa water levels and the balancing is erratic - I will do some research on that. Very strange?
 
That is odd. :scratch: As you said, maybe something is jammed in the gates of the 3-way valves or the new check valve that is inhibiting proper seal. Take it slow and methodically one part at a time starting at the suction side 3-way valve. Then go through the filter carefully checking all joints and the air relief seal up top, then across to the return side (check valve and 3-way).
 
That is odd. :scratch: As you said, maybe something is jammed in the gates of the 3-way valves or the new check valve that is inhibiting proper seal. Take it slow and methodically one part at a time starting at the suction side 3-way valve. Then go through the filter carefully checking all joints and the air relief seal up top, then across to the return side (check valve and 3-way).
Will do - thanks
 
Just wanted to give you an update. Expect for the odd day on the weekend when the spa did not go down, it has been going down each day since. I did look at the 3 way valve in Sunday but did not see anything unusual. When I got home from work today with the spa level down again, after the pump ran this morning, I decided to hose the spa and fill it out. Here we are a few hours later now and the spa going down again? Unless I am missing something this surely cannot have anything to the pump or parts. Surely it means something in the spa ? I will try and do your recommendation by testing the spa drain cover with something solid and see if the water still goes down. I am getting to a point of no return here and may just have to live with the problem. I am effectively not losing any water because the pool is not losing any water and the spa will just fill up when the pump runs again. Thank you
 
Texas has you half way there.

Do this
Turn the pump off. Kill the power .

Fill the spa up, and turn that three way jandy in front of the pump to the off pos. The suction side of the not running pump you turned off, put it in the off pos with that 3way jandy. If the handle does not turn all the way then lift the handle slightly and turn the off flap toward the pump. Now the handle/stick is pointing at you. And off is facing the pump.

Next turn that pool spa return off the same way with that grey jandy valve. Face the handle toward you and make sure the off flap is lined up nice with the pipe from the filter.

Now the only place for water to go down is in the spa body, or the pool body. For the most part.

Let that sit over night, Make sure your pump wont come on over night.

Tex is saying its leaking from one of those valves I think it is too. Go ahead and order two jandy key jandy valve assemblies and replace the lids. Or plumb in a check valve on the spa return and suction. Let see how your test goes.
 
Texas has you half way there.

Do this
Turn the pump off. Kill the power .

Fill the spa up, and turn that three way jandy in front of the pump to the off pos. The suction side of the not running pump you turned off, put it in the off pos with that 3way jandy. If the handle does not turn all the way then lift the handle slightly and turn the off flap toward the pump. Now the handle/stick is pointing at you. And off is facing the pump.

Next turn that pool spa return off the same way with that grey jandy valve. Face the handle toward you and make sure the off flap is lined up nice with the pipe from the filter.

Now the only place for water to go down is in the spa body, or the pool body. For the most part.

Let that sit over night, Make sure your pump wont come on over night.

Tex is saying its leaking from one of those valves I think it is too. Go ahead and order two jandy key jandy valve assemblies and replace the lids. Or plumb in a check valve on the spa return and suction. Let see how your test goes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3529.JPG
    IMG_3529.JPG
    448.8 KB · Views: 2

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.