Plumbing a swcg

UKjames

Silver Supporter
May 1, 2020
275
United Kingdom
Pool Size
44000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
my current heater return to the pool looks like this.
678CC979-D623-4148-876E-454CC4000869.jpeg

so should I remove the pipe at the shut off valve for the return to the pool and similarly at the the heater and then get a couple of 90 degrees elbows and plumb parallel to the heater (left to right on diagram). Do I need to get the screw unions for each end too? If so how do I tell what I need?!
 
You will need a couple things..

1. I would plumb in a heater bypass unless you are running your heater all the time, then never mind.. Heater Bypass - Further Reading

2. depending on the SWG any where past the last piece of equipment, it think your heater is the last part... many SWG manufactures have you go up into the SWG then back down into the pipe.. what does your manual recommend?

From you picture everything is jam packed in there, can you give yourself some space and move it away from everything?

The SWG should have unions on the end of the cell to connect pipe into.. if it does not I would install unions going to it.. my last SWG did not have unions the one I have now does.. :)
 
I wondered about heater by pass. I guess it’s used a fair chunk of the time but not all of it. Sorry this is a silly question but what does a jandy check valve do?

I’ve not got the swcg yet but trying to plan. It’s not a major brand (it’s the one from Amazon that you suggested cbc) it has grey/black connectors but doesn’t look like they are threaded.

my heater is the last bit of equipment. The red valve in the middle right next to the filter is where the pipe goes into the floor to return to pool.
 
I just noticed it was you :)

Next time keep the same thread going so we know everything going on but its no issue at all...

So that check valve keeps the water from returning through the exit side of the heater when you bypass it... The heater bypass will help the flow of water as heaters slow the water down..

So not much room for the SWG.. you could send it further right and up into the SWG then make a U turn and come back down into your existing pipe like this.. It really is hard to depict 3 dimensions on 2 dimension paper :)

#1. is 3 way valve
#2 is SWG...

I just get in there with pipe and see what I can get.. look at it from 3 or 4 different angles and go for it.. dry fit everything and If it get messed up do it again.. :)


Annotation 2021-08-02 093128.jpg
 
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Thanks. Because I have minimal confidence in my ability. I’d like to start by unscrewing the existing plumbing so I can screw it back if I screw up! (I’ll need to cut to install the heater bypass but figured would attempt that if the first the swcg goes Ok)

Will I need to buy another grey “nut” to attach to the heater? Similarly will I need one to screw into the gate valve? I assume they won’t come off the existing plumbing unless I cut it.
 
I wish I could help more... I would need to be there to really help out any more... when it comes down to it it is not hard at all... :)

glue and plastic pipe.... just dry fit everything before you glue anything.. once it is all together start at one end and start gluing together...
 
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I think the 2 unions on the SWG will be fine... You could use the one you have now but that would be a tight fit... :)
 
Silly question time again. With a bit of Googling I found some grey check valves and grey pipe labelled as “pvc pressure pipe” it’s being sold for a koi carp fish pond but would that be the stuff?

I ask since it’s quite a bit cheaper than elsewhere white “pool” stuff
 

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Grey pipe is usually schedule 80 and it is better than white sch 40... The check valve is very much needed, you do not want a bypass without it... :)
 
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