Jandy LXI heater

New2poolcare

Member
Mar 11, 2020
15
Visalia, CA
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Suddenly my pool heater is leaking a lot of water from inside the unit. We haven't used it since the winter but just wanted to ask if anyone has encountered this before. When I start running my pump, the heater starts making a noise and a good amount of water starts coming out so I shut it off immediately. Please advice, thank you.
 
How old is it? Obviously this is going to require someone to take it apart and see what is leaking.
It's about 5 years old, and the thing is when the previous owners had the pool built they literally almost stacked all the pool equipment. There is barely enough room to open the door. I have no idea how I'm even going to get in there.
 

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Wow yeah that sucks! That is going to require a lot to get to. Possibly might need to cut and redo some plumbing. I also suggest you discard the mineral cartridge portion of that Nature2 system it is NOT recommended to use by TFP. You could convert to a saltwater pool and replace it with the Nature2 FusionSoft saltwater chlorine generator which is the exact same footprint but just don't use the mineral cartridge portion.
 
Wow yeah that sucks! That is going to require a lot to get to. Possibly might need to cut and redo some plumbing. I also suggest you discard the mineral cartridge portion of that Nature2 system it is NOT recommended to use by TFP. You could convert to a saltwater pool and replace it with the Nature2 FusionSoft saltwater chlorine generator which is the exact same footprint but just don't use the mineral cartridge portion.
Sorry to ask, but do you mind explaining? I'm not sure what or where that is. We clean our own pool but don't know much on the mechanics. We've had trouble in the past finding someone that will take jobs on it because of its design. You can't see it but I took that picture from above a fence that's was placed there to hide all the equipment. It's bad! No space whatsoever.
 
That blue/grey vessel right in front of the heater is a Nature2 chlorine puck and mineral system. Mineral systems are not recommended by this site. Pucks are also not recommended due to each puck adding CYA to your water. Eventually your CYA gets so high that your pool is unmanageable. The same company (Nature2 - a Zodiac/Jandy company) make the exact same vessel in a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG). So you could convert your pool to a saltwater pool, which creates its own chlorine, and no longer have to manually add chlorine. Just a thought.

If you are going to end up cutting everything anyway to get to the heater, there are other, better alternatives to the Nature2 SWG, however.

Can you post a wider shot of the entire equipment pad?

 
That blue/grey vessel right in front of the heater is a Nature2 chlorine puck and mineral system. Mineral systems are not recommended by this site. Pucks are also not recommended due to each puck adding CYA to your water. Eventually your CYA gets so high that your pool is unmanageable. The same company (Nature2 - a Zodiac/Jandy company) make the exact same vessel in a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG). So you could convert your pool to a saltwater pool, which creates its own chlorine, and no longer have to manually add chlorine. Just a thought.

If you are going to end up cutting everything anyway to get to the heater, there are other, better alternatives to the Nature2 SWG, however.

Can you post a wider shot of the entire equipment pad?

Gotcha! I really appreciate it :)
 

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That for sure was not designed with any thought to future maintenance. Even winterizing that looks rough.
No, no thought whatsoever. And unfortunately we are stuck with it. We get charged more because of how hard it is to get into and I don't blame them. Winterizing? Besides cleaning the cartridges, anything else we should be doing? There is a setting on it where the pump will run if it shall reach freezing temperatures (it's only happened twice in the last 2 years we have been in the home).
 

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I just sent a video to a local pool repair person and he said it's the coils and that the he recommends the whole heater be replaced. He said he could replace the coils but the labor would be almost as much as a new heater, again, because of how tight the area is.
 
How easy would it be to remove that fence in front of it? At least removing the slats should help a lot with access.
 
We are totally ok with removing it but that only gives access to the right side, would that still work? He did mention it would have to come down, it is what it is.
The door doesn't even come down all the way because it's blocked by the chlorine puck mineral system being right in front
 
The reason heater coils fail is due to extremely low pH caused by over use of trichlor, in most cases. If you replace this heater, I suggest you take a good look at the TFPC methods so your next heater can last for far more years and your pool experience will be far better.
 
We are totally ok with removing it but that only gives access to the right side, would that still work? He did mention it would have to come down, it is what it is.

Any competent repair tech will be able to get to it. The gas line needs to be disconnected along with the electrical and water lines. Can he get it out without cutting any water lines? Probably. But if he isn't putting in the same model, it'll require some plumbing. If you don't want to try this on your own, you don't have many options. I will suggest that if plumbing lines need to be cut and redone, have him put unions wherever possible so your plumbing and equipment is able to be worked on in the future. Also check the heater manual for clearances on each side of the heater and of course code for the same.
 
The reason heater coils fail is due to extremely low pH caused by over use of trichlor, in most cases. If you replace this heater, I suggest you take a good look at the TFPC methods so your next heater can last for far more years and your pool experience will be far better.
I'll definitely check them out, thanks! By the sounds of it do you think it's the coils? Water gushing out from inside as soon as the pump gets turned on?
 
Any competent repair tech will be able to get to it. The gas line needs to be disconnected along with the electrical and water lines. Can he get it out without cutting any water lines? Probably. But if he isn't putting in the same model, it'll require some plumbing. If you don't want to try this on your own, you don't have many options. I will suggest that if plumbing lines need to be cut and redone, have him put unions wherever possible so your plumbing and equipment is able to be worked on in the future. Also check the heater manual for clearances on each side of the heater and of course code for the same.
Yes he said new plumbing would be required and unfortunately this is something I cannot do.
 
I'll definitely check them out, thanks! By the sounds of it do you think it's the coils? Water gushing out from inside as soon as the pump gets turned on?

If you can't even turn your pump on, I hope you are adding chlorine manually and using a brush to circulate the pool. The water will turn very quickly if not.
 
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