PVC replumb: easy option or hard option?

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AZPoolDad

AZPoolDad

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May 14, 2013
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Replumbing to the left of the new Tee next to brass gate valve (hopefully to become a PVC ball valve). As you can see, no open areas of pipe to the right of brass valve. All fittings! I don’t want to rip out and redo that whole top line between the brass valve and the compression union far right! Is there a solution to get that cut riser into bottom of Tee?
 
What is the purpose of the brass valve (that you plan to replace)? You have what appears to be a 3 way valve farther to the right before the compression union.
What is the vertical pipe coming of the ground that you are trying to Tee into?
 
I don't know what goes where...but to directly answer you question

You could cut the coupler off of the unconnected pipe coming out of the ground and then 90 to the left then up and go up into a T on the top line. If you do that you could build the part to the left and glue it on the top and bottom pipes at the same time. (like the top image)

Capture.JPG
The bottom image you would still cut off the coupler on the unconnected pipe and glue on a union and build the top part.

Either way...I would ditch the brass valve for a Jandy style if you even need it. What does it regulate?
 
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Only thing I would recommend is when you replace the brass gate valve for PVC... I'd avoid the cheap PVC valves at the big box (Menards, Home Depot, Lowes). Every time that I or others I know have used them they freeze-up after a season or 2.
Spend a couple extra dollars on a Jandy/Pentair valve and be done with it. Buy once, cry once.

Best of luck on the project.
 
The brass valve was how it was previously plumbed by previous homeowner. Rusted inside and frozen. I just replaced with a new one as I never thought “why on earth is a brass valve being used here?” But I bought a PVC ball valve from ACE Hardware yesterday. This valve diverts water down and back up three feet away into the heater, then down and back up the next riser to the right. The small riser is for the spray fountain feature. The three way jandy is to regulate between spa return and main pool return (in-floor zoned cleaning system). Thanks for input, fellas. I really don’t want to rip out the whole top line as it isn’t leaking.
 
Thanks for all the advice. In the end I kept the brass valve (yes, I know it will probably be internally rusted in 15 years), and got everything fitted and glued, and nothing is leaking. I only made one mistake and had to redo that part but not a big deal. People that do these repairs on a regular basis definitely build up a book of "tricks" and best practices that make these issues "nothing-burgers" over time.
 
As an aside the easiest way to remove glued PVC pipe is to get a hole saw that just fits into the pipe. Heat it as hot as you can get it with a propane torch and slide it into the pipe. After about a minute pull it out and heat it again then re-insert it for another minute. Then you should be able to grab the pipe with a pair of pliers and peel it out using a twisting motion. You will be left with a near perfect fitting. If it resists keep heating and inserting the hole saw until the pipe in the fitting becomes pliable.

Any remaining glue on the inside of the fitting can be softened with PVC primer.
 
My problem now is air in the basket at low RPMs. When I turn off the pump after it has fully primed at high RPM, I can see the tiny bubbles sneaking back into the basket from the downstream side of the basket (pool side). So now I have yet more work to do and I am praying it is not under ground! I will use the hose method to shoot water on the different areas of the suction side and watch for the air bubbles to disappear. Always something...
 

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