Equipment pad plumbing review

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czb182

Well-known member
Oct 20, 2020
83
North Virgina
My pool builder is starting soon. I got a picture of the most recent equipment pad they are doing to see if I request any changes before they start mine. I don't really know all the best practices, hoping someone can review and offer suggestions. This particular build in picture has two pumps, where I will only be having one, but both are pool/spa combo, just mine is smaller. (7' x7' spa), 14x28' pool. Also they are using D.E. filter, where i'm going cartridge. same SWCG and heater though. Not doing booster pump, from recommendations on this forum ,going with a robot cleaner.

some of my thoughts.
1. bottom left, normal valves, why not jandy valves?
2. Jandy recommends long sweep elbows, and I don't see any.
3. Why check valves on jump intake?
4. intake straight pipe not long enough( should be 10" min i think)
5. I don't see manual bypass for pool heater, which I think is recommended
6. I'm assuming the clear thing T'ing off pool heater intake is for water bonding, but not sure
7. not shown in picture on bottom right is check valve right after heater outlet, which i know is recommended. Just not sure wisdom putting it right next to outlet, worried about heat damage? seems like they should have put right before SWCG inlet?
8. I thought doing CPVC or schedule 80 on heater outlet for some feet is recommnded, can't remember
9. seems like they could have reversed the pool heater, to potentially simplify plumbing a little

any other thoughts.

IMG_4544.jpg
 
czb182 said:
1. bottom left, normal valves, why not jandy valves?
Click to expand...

Being cheap. Ball valves will stiffen and freeze up in time and can't be serviced. To repair they need to be cut out and replaced. Better to use 2 way diverter valves that can be rebuilt as necessary.

czb182 said:
2. Jandy recommends long sweep elbows, and I don't see any.
Click to expand...

Does not make any visible difference in pool operation. If you want it ask for it.

czb182 said:
3. Why check valves on jump intake?
Click to expand...

Depends if equipment pad is below water level.

czb182 said:
4. intake straight pipe not long enough( should be 10" min i think)
Click to expand...

Jandy recommends 4X pipe size minimum.

Jandy pump suction installation.jpg

Jandy pump suction installation.jpg



czb182 said:
5. I don't see manual bypass for pool heater, which I think is recommended
Click to expand...

Yes.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

czb182 said:
6. I'm assuming the clear thing T'ing off pool heater intake is for water bonding, but not sure
Click to expand...

Yes, It should be rotated 90 degrees to ensure it is always full of water regardless of water flow.

czb182 said:
7. not shown in picture on bottom right is check valve right after heater outlet, which i know is recommended. Just not sure wisdom putting it right next to outlet, worried about heat damage? seems like they should have put right before SWCG inlet?
Click to expand...


The pipes right at the heater outlet are warm, not hot.

czb182 said:
8. I thought doing CPVC or schedule 80 on heater outlet for some feet is recommnded, can't remember
Click to expand...

See the heater installation manual recommendations. Usually not necessary.

czb182 said:
9. seems like they could have reversed the pool heater, to potentially simplify plumbing a little
Click to expand...

Focus on where the heater exhaust is. That is where the heat is. I would want the exhaust to be to the right and away from all equipment. I don't know what is to the right of the pad. Windows or doors may not allow the exhaust on that side.
 
The biggest thing that I see with that pad is the PB is using precast concrete pads, and using 2x4's in what appears to be a method of leveling out the pads. The 2x4's, even if they are pressure treated, will eventually rot and could cause shifting of the concrete pads, leaving them uneven and potentially putting stress on the piping.

It does look like he created a good base for the pads with the gravel, and he used the 2x4 as an alignment tool. Not sure why they didn't pull the 2x4's and fill those voids with gravel and compact.

I would want a poured in place concrete pad, but I've been told I'm difficult too.

--Jeff
 
Thanks for good info.

The equipment pad is above water level, does it still need the check valves on pump intake. Also, look further, the clear attachment on pipe going to heater is actually a sacrificial anode, not sure where the bonding plate is yet. I already asked PB and they only do these prefab pads, not poured concrete, not sure why.
 
What direction does the prevailing winds come from?

Your skimmers should be placed in the two most prevailing wind directions. The wind has more effect on surface debris then the water returns.
 
Well, my equipment pad is almost complete. Need to put in anode, minor plumbing changes I requested. Got jandy automation sub panel up. Looking pretty nice I think.
 

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