Bought Circupool Unit...Need To Open Pool Without It In Line

Jump to latest Follow Reply
G

geno1005

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2015
63
Berea, KY
Hello Everyone:

Over the winter I purchased a Circupool SI-40. I finally got an electrician to show up this week to wire it...and my pump...to the 220 circuit and place a timer in line. Unfortunately the '15 minute installation' is going to be more complicated for me since I don't have a long-enough flat (vertical or horizontal) run of return pipe to insert the unit. I'm 3 weeks late in opening the pool already so I have to move on. When I fired up the pump for the first time, I selected 'off' on the control box, but became concerned when the 'no flow' LED lit up anyway.

Problem is that the two of them are now wired together, so when I flip the breaker, both have power. I'm hoping that the 'off' switch is sufficient to move forward with the SWG offline?

I need to get the pool opened an the water balanced before it gets any warmer, but don't want to further frustrate my purchase of this thing by blowing it up. My question...am I ok to proceed with using the pump and using liquid chlorine until I can solve the plumbing puzzle? (I'll be asking for help on that issue separately if you don't mind?).

Thanks everyone!
 
As long as the unit is OFF or set to 0% generation, you are good. Nothing you do when opening will mess up the SWCG. Be sure to leave it off until you have added salt and test the salinity with your K1766 salt test kit.
 
Marty, you are almost always the first to reply when I get myself into these situations and I really appreciate it! I will keep the switch in the 'off' position and start sweeping the pool. Perhaps you can also help with my plumbing challenge as well. Any suggestions on how to configure this mess of 1 1/2 inch pipe with something that will work? Thank you again.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0497.jpg
    IMG_0497.jpg
    482.2 KB · Views: 22
Gene, are you saying the SJ-40 is wired into the power but the cell is sitting on the side and not installed in the plumbing and in the water flow?

If so, then leave the SWG OFF and don’t worry about the no-flow light.

Treat your pool as a liquid chlorine pool until you get the cell installed and working.
 
Last edited:
The SJ installation manual https://www.circupool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-SJ-Manual.pdf says:

The Cell should be positioned 6”above the highest plumbing point (includes filterports or height of heater, if present), installed in the return line using two 90° elbows (not included) and two straight pieces of PVC pipe as risers (not included).

Gene SWG.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: mknauss
mknauss said:
So not familiar with that MPV -- which line returns to the pool?
Click to expand...
The line with the 3 elbows on the far, lower right (closest to the camera) is the return. Perhaps not obvious from the picture (from that angle) is that the longer vertical piece of pipe is installed at a 45 (or so) degree angle...so it is both dropping in elevation and moving to the right to connect to the long horizontal pipe which is literally laying against the concrete on the ground. That last elbow on the lower right goes underground and back to the pool returns.

Thanks!
 
ajw22 said:
The SJ installation manual https://www.circupool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-SJ-Manual.pdf says:

The Cell should be positioned 6”above the highest plumbing point (includes filterports or height of heater, if present), installed in the return line using two 90° elbows (not included) and two straight pieces of PVC pipe as risers (not included).

View attachment 335847
Click to expand...
Oh wow...I had totally missed the elevation piece of that somehow. So my first job is to go 'up' probably 9+ inches and then figure out some configuration that is going to get the 25 or so inches front to back (in terms of the picture) and also the 10 or so inches 'left-to-right'...required to align where it leaves the valve and goes underground? Presuming I could cut the pipe coming directly out of the valve and leave enough pipe to work with, might I be better off going 90 degree up at that point, then across to install the Circupool unit, and then figure out how to make up the distance left-to-right'? I also have to install the flow switch along that run somewhere also. I think I'm reading that it can be either before or after the actual unit, but needs 6 to 12 inches of straight pipe ahead of it? Thanks again...I'm a little over my head here at the moment! I have never cut/installed PVC pipe so I don't know how much needs to be left to install the elbow.
 
Buy a bunch of PVC and fittings and you can cut pieces and dry fit it together. You will waste a bunch of PVC in the learning process but PVC is inexpensive. Once you have it all dry fit together then cutting it into the pool plumbing should be easy.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
  • Like
Reactions: ArsenalFan

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
geno1005 said:
I also have to install the flow switch along that run somewhere also. I think I'm reading that it can be either before or after the actual unit, but needs 6 to 12 inches of straight pipe ahead of it?
Click to expand...

I see no mention of an external flow switch in the SJ manual. Where did you see that?
 
ajw22 said:
I see no mention of an external flow switch in the SJ manual. Where did you see that?
Click to expand...
Looking closer, I think the model number might be SL-40...here's the box...and the two pieces remaining to be installed. At some point there's the additional challenge of converting from 1 1/2 inch pipe to 2 and back again. Sorry...obviously I'm over my head here.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0498.jpg
    IMG_0498.jpg
    368.6 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_0500.jpg
    IMG_0500.jpg
    382.2 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:
That is not the SJ. That is a circupool knockoff of a aquarite. So you can install that on the lower section of straight pipe.
 
geno1005 said:
It's probably hard to tell with the font used here, this isn't an SJ it's an SI (as in Indigo) or so it says on the box....looks like three main components...the control box (just installed), the cell itself and a flow switch that has a wire sticking out the top of it that looks to be about 5 to 6 inches long.
Click to expand...
Well that changes the discussion. Forget about what was said above. This is the manual?


Put the Flow Switch after the cell.

Page 15 says:

When positioning the Flow Switch, there must be at least 6 to 12” (30cm) of straight pipe before the Flow Switch. If installed after the Electrolytic Cell, the Cell can be counted as straight pipe

Gene SWG.jpg
 
ajw22 said:
Well that changes the discussion. Forget about what was said above. This is the manual?


Put the Flow Switch after the cell.

Page 15 says:

When positioning the Flow Switch, there must be at least 6 to 12” (30cm) of straight pipe before the Flow Switch. If installed after the Electrolytic Cell, the Cell can be counted as straight pipe

View attachment 335894
Click to expand...
Thanks....just got back home. So do I understand that you're suggesting that I insert the cell on the diagonal pipe and the flow switch on the horizontal pipe?

The current distance is 13 1/8" between PVC couplings (if that's the right term) on the diagonal piece and 16 1/4" on the horizontal piece. It looks like the cell with unions is 15 3/4"-- so could I flip those two and put the flow switch on the diagonal and the cell on the horizontal? I have to make two conversions from 1 1/2" to 2" pipe but I can't tell if those add any length to the measurements or not. If I flip them will the flow switch work on that crazy 45 degree angle pipe?

I notice that the connection to the actual valve appears to be screwed on as opposed to all the glued PVC connections (which I presume have to be cut off?). Is it likely that that end can be unscrewed from the valve without damaging it or was it likely glued at the time of installation also (or has been in place so long it likely won't come loose anyway)? It would open some additional options (primarily eliminating that crazy diagonal piece) if I could start from scratch at the valve end....work only with 90 degree turns... and then only have to cut and splice the PVC connection at the ground level. I watched them install it 15 years ago, but was too new to all of this to remember what they did.

Sorry for so many questions...this looked a lot easier when I ordered it that it does now. 8:(
 
Hey just a quick thank you to everyone who provided guidance and advice on getting my SWG installed. Thanks to your advice and a son-in-law who is much more comfortable with working with PVC pipe than I am, the unit is installed and working. I realize I asked a LOT Of questions along the way, so thank you for your patience with my seemingly endless questions! I'm learning the operation of the unit now and may have some additional questions along the way...for now...thanks to all of you who helped.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mknauss
geno1005 said:
.thanks to all of you who helped.
Click to expand...
Glad to be of assistance.
We are glad you have found our information helpful. Please, if you can, consider making a donation to TFP. We are staffed by volunteers and are registered as an IRS 501 (c) (3) charity and donations are what keeps the forum operating without advertisements.

Support TFP!
 
  • Like
Reactions: kellyfair
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply