Brand new Circupool sj-45 shuts off after salt and cell lights turn on red

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laprjns said:
Back in Post #43 you said:

And now in Post #133 you say:

So your plumbing changes have made a difference in the system operating symptoms. Have Cirupool sent you a complete new flow switch assembly? This assemble does include the temperature sensor and I don't see anywhere in this thread that you have replaced it. I think there something going in the rectangle box with the four screws, maybe a bad temp sensor or loose wire connections.
Again, I don't think that the flow switch assembly should be mounted on the vertical pipe section of the cell output side, although I'll admit that i would expect the flow light to be green when the pump is not running.
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They did replace both the flow switch and the housing. After replacing the housing my lights did change. With the new housing Instead of coming on for approximately a minute and then shutting off, it now never starts
generating chlorine at all. All the green lights flash on briefly, then immediately the flow switch light and the temperature light turn red and it never generates chlorine. I also can no longer get it to run with hot salt water in the skimmer basket. DSP has a video of the install which places the cell vertically, the instruction manual show it horizontally. At this point theyEE49CF0B-9929-49A4-9587-BB0B2D69B7BF.jpeg1106D7D4-6419-4A61-9963-D66460024D95.png have replaced every part.
 
Ok everyone, do I want to replace to the rj series, the Core or just get rid of circupool all together??
 
We know the RJ and core both work and have been proven to work... This SJ A is a brand new system... The core is the easiest to install as it is all in one with 2 unions on each side.. :)
 
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One thing I found on another thread is the height of the cell seems to be important. In the other manual it says it needs to be more than 6” above the highest plumbing point. Something to check here as it looks like it might be less than 6”.
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I'll have to post a pic of the way I plumbed my SJ-35 tomorrow when it's daylight. I actually have my flow switch horizontally installed about 8-10 inches from the outlet on my multiport valve, then an elbow down and over to a pipe that goes up to my salt cell which is a couple inches higher than the height of my skimmer. then the output of the cell goes back to ground level, and up to the returns.
 
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OK, sorry it took me so long in the day to get back, but I got busy unexpectedly.

When I hooked up my SJ-35, I actually put the flow switch closer to the output of the multiport valve than the manual dictates, but I lucked out that it works.

I actually had the red salt and cell lights at first, but after reading here, I contacted CircuPool directly, and they said to add a little more salt, to bring my salt level up closer to the high end of the range of salinity (closer to 4000ppm), and wait for the temp to come up (My temp was 68º at the time, and even though I had a green temp light, the unit did not like that cool a temp). It seems like these things like a temp above 75º. Once my water temp came up, it started working.

I should add. My flow light is always green. I've seen some say that it is either off or red, but no, it should be green.
Consequently, my pump lost it's prime the other day, and the flow light went from green to red, and the generator stopped working, as it should.

Hope this helps.
 

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@bover907
Thank you. The only major thing I can see that is different on yours, that I haven’t tried, is that your flow switch is much further away from your cell than mine has ever been. I’ve tried vertical placement, and horizontal placement. I’ve tried before the cell and after the cell. Nothing seems to work. My pool temperature is 79° today and still the flow switch light and the water temperature light are red. I’m sending it all back and will dump liquid bleach until I get a replacement 😩
 

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Jean, if your system is still hooked up you can try one more thing. I think the plug from the flow switch into the control is like a phone wire cord plug. If you have an old phone wire to spare cut off the plug 2-3 inches from the end, strip away the wire ends and join the 2 wires together and plug it in instead of the flow switch wire. This will make it look like the flow switch is operational and see if the system will run. That will rule out the flow switch issue.
 
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JeaniB said:
All the green lights flash on briefly, then immediately the flow switch light and the temperature light turn red and it never generates chlorine.
Click to expand...
This points to the flow / temperature assembly as being the issue.

@eville had the same problem and replacing the flow / temperature sensor assembly resolve the issue
eville said:
Since this post got moved to it's own thread, I'll add some details about my problem. I did an install in February this year and within a couple of weeks, I had a problem with the flow light coming on red and thus not making any chlorine. Support sent instructions on how to open the unit and adjust. That worked for for a few weeks. I came back from a trip to a pool starting to turn green and red lights for temperature and flow. Pool temp was 68. Support told me I was missing a jumper so I added one and it didn't help. I was sent a winter cover for my cell and a shipping label to return the unit and cell. The unit came back with a jumper in place of the wire I installed and a cross-threaded screw allowing one wire to slip out of the connection where they installed the jumper. I repaired that screw and had the same red lights for flow and temp. They then sent me a replacement flow switch. That didn't help either. At this point I was getting very upset and they offered to send me a brand new unit which arrived yesterday. I installed the new cell and the new control panel and no change in red light conditions. I went to Lowes last night and got new 90* fittings and replaced the flow switch housing and viola. The unit fired right up with green lights for temp and flow. It seems to still be working this morning. Hopefully this is the final solution.
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Multiple failures of this assemble points to a quality issue. I believe that that the problem is most likely with the wire connections which are according to @eville, are potted within the compartment held down with the four screws.
Given the quality isssue with the flowe /temeperature sensor and all the effort that you have be put into this trying to fix your SJ system, I suggest that you demand that Cirupool replace your system with a RJ model.
 
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I guess I lucked out that I got a good flow switch / temp sensor assembly. That really sucks, JeaniB if you went through all that trouble, and it was a faulty flow switch the whole time. When my unit turns on, the first thing that happens is that the flow light turns green.
 
@laprjns
I tried the old phone cord,. Flow light and water temperature light stayed red😩water temperature at 80 degrees today.
DSP sent me a shipping label to send everything back, but haven’t answered my email about a replacement or a refund.
 

JeaniB You need to make sure you connect the right wires together on the phone cord. Your phone cord will have 4 wires in it, and you would need to try each combination of wires to make sure you tried every combination available.​

 
bover907 said:

JeaniB You need to make sure you connect the right wires together on the phone cord. Your phone cord will have 4 wires in it, and you would need to try each combination of wires to make sure you tried every combination available.​

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You can look through the clear clip/plug on the flow switch end to see which 2 of the 4 wires are used. Usually when only 2 are used it will be the two center wires as most phone cords are only using the 2 center contacts for a single line phone.
 
bover907 said:

JeaniB You need to make sure you connect the right wires together on the phone cord. Your phone cord will have 4 wires in it, and you would need to try each combination of wires to make sure you tried every combination available.​

Click to expand...
two flow sensors being bad and giving the same failure would be possible but unlikely.
 
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