Hey everyone. I've got the Hayward Aquarite T-3 and recently I've noticed that while my pump is off (variable speed pump no longer hooked up to a timer) that the SWG is still detecting a flow somehow and is "generating". I removed the flow sensor and manually toggled the switch on and off and the unit recognizes this however once placed back into the housing it seems to just stay stuck on detecting flow. I feel like something is obvious here but I can't figure it out. Any help would be appreciated.
Help with flow sensor
- Thread starter LegoMyEggo
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,821
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
First and foremost, all SWCG need to have power removed when the pump is not running. So that needs to be fixed by adding a timer to control the SWCG. This will prevent the cell from generating (as you see yours is) without the pump running as they can explode.
As far as the flow switch, something is holding it closed with the pump off. What orientation is the flow switch? Can you post some pictures of the setup?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
First and foremost, all SWCG need to have power removed when the pump is not running. So that needs to be fixed by adding a timer to control the SWCG. This will prevent the cell from generating (as you see yours is) without the pump running as they can explode.
As far as the flow switch, something is holding it closed with the pump off. What orientation is the flow switch? Can you post some pictures of the setup?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,821
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thank you for the pictures.
The flow switch is installed in the correct direction I assume.
Let's see if @JamesW has any ideas.
The flow switch is installed in the correct direction I assume.
Let's see if @JamesW has any ideas.
Thanks for looking into this one. And yes double and triple checked the direction just to be safe!
They didn't use a correct T.
They used a reducer.
You need the original Hayward T.
www.inyopools.com
Here is what the correct T looks like.
They used a reducer.
You need the original Hayward T.
Flow Switch, 2in Pipe Tee, 10-12gpm, 25ft Cable (glx-flo-25) - INYOPools.com
"FLOW SWITCH, 2IN PIPE TEE, 10-12GPM, 25FT CABLE" (GLX-FLO-25) - Pool & Spa Parts
www.inyopools.com
Here is what the correct T looks like.
You can get a 2" slip x 2" slip x 1/2" female threaded T from a plumbing supplier but the hole for the flow switch at the bottom of the 1/2" threaded section tends to be too small for the switch to go through unless you drill it out slightly larger.
I had a feeling something was different in that sensor area from how it used to be prior to having the pump/filter replaced. I think I might just go the safe route and replace it with the correct T. I think my dad happens to have one from his system that he isn't using.
