You can let the CYA come down a bit, and get back to to the 70-80 range in spring. But keep the FC as you would in summer for the CYA you're at. Yes algae get's less active in colder water and doesn't grow as fast, but that also means slower metabolism and it's actually harder for chlorine to get into cells and kill them. And with lower temperature, CYA will bind more chlorine, reducing the amount of active chlorine. By leaving FC at normal levels, you compensate for these effects.
You will need a lot less chlorine per day. You will notice that at some point, when UV gets less intense, probably also more shade on the pool with the sun being lower, that your FC will start to shoot up - time to dial back the SWG, and reduce the pump time a bit. Since you won't have high UV losses, there is no harm in having the FC a bit higher at times (no harm in the sense that it doesn't cost you much in SWG run time). Once you get to a stable situation, it should be enough to test FC and pH about once or twice per week (another reason to keep the FC at summer targets, or even slightly higher - it gives you some buffer while paying less attention to your pool). Test TA, CH and CYA from time to time, depending on the amount of rain dilution they can slowly drift down over winter and affect your CSI (colder water will also reduce CSI, which is why allowing higher pH is a good idea - pH will naturally get higher with lower temperatures).
Don't miss the time in spring when you have to ramp up the chlorine production again - once the water gets warmer, algae will use any weakness in your chlorine levels to let you know that they are there.