taking the plunge and converting to SWG

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V

vsman

Well-known member
May 11, 2020
57
houston, tx, USA
Inspired by this thread ( intellichlor power center transformer specs ) I am going the SWG way- IC40. The only thing it kills is the ridiculously low 1 year warranty on our travertine.
2- questions-
- where to install. Remove the inline chlorinator? or keep it as a backup? if I keep it as a backup put the SWG in the circled red area?
This will probably be at least 2-3 months before I pull the trigger- I want all other quirks/warranty issues resolved- don't want my PB to have any excuse not to cover other stuff.

- From your past experience- can the in-line chlorinator be removed and the IC40 just dropped into its place using the same union connectors?

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Can you post a picture of the plumbing coming from the heater to the three way automated valve? I am thinking if you replumb that entire run (eliminating the UV too as it does you no good) you will have enough room to install the IC. The red circled area does not look long enough and the chlorinator is definitely not long enough (and the unions for an IC are proprietary).
 
OK -- so the UV is before the heater. You can leave it. When the bulb burns out no need to replace it. You won't see any difference.

On the line out of the heater, you will need to 90 to the left and then 90 to use that straight run for your SWCG. Easy replumb when you do it. Leave a good 10-12" of straight run before the SWCG flow switch. It helps to get to laminar flow before you get to the flow switch.
 
You will be happy with a SWG, I bought and installed mine around March and it makes life so much easier. I left for a 10 day vacation in the middle of summer and my FC was the same when I got back as when I left :)
PLus IMHO the water is so much smoother, don't feel sticky after swimming anymore
 
updates- the IC40 and power supply just came in the mail. Picked up 6 bags of pool salt at the orange store- (surprisingly the cost difference between pool salt and water softener was $1 /bag. Need to pick up 9 more bags- ( I calculated wrong for 20000 gallon pool).
The more I read about heater construction- I decided to implement a heater bypass (the internal manifold bypass adds a lot of resistance to the circuit)- waiting for a 3-way and check valve to come in the mail. (I have 90 feet of plumbing from pad to the pool- want to reduce TDH as much as possible).
I note the suggestions made by Marty and realize the SWG bypasses the heater- but figured this should work as well?- unless you see any errors. Heater is run only during spa usage - never to heat up pool.
 

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Do remember that the SWCG is designed to operate at a reduced level when in SPA mode. That is a good idea as when people are in the small volumes of the SPA they are consuming the FC quickly. But up to you on that. As you have a Pentair heater, it already has an internal bypass. There is some more restriction when not operating, but not dramatic.
 
Test salt level before dumping the bags. Most pools already contain salt left by other forms of chlorination and sanitization. Best to get yourself a Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit. Don't rely on store tests or strips.

Edit: I just saw your build date, so chances are you have little salt in the pool. You'll need the kit in the future.
 
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