No Cell Power 2?

ajw22 · Aug 4, 2020

Try and just touch up the solder joint first and see if it gets the board working.

If that fails then next step would be to replace the entire relay which is a more invasive process on the board.

Then with all that experience you can decide if you want to take on replacing the capacitor.

The objective isn't to have you rebuild a like new board. Just find what it takes to get the board operational.

Bama Rambler · Aug 5, 2020

Westovers said:
If it is, it is VERY VERY slight... Do you still think it needs replacing?

If it's only very slightly out then it's probably fine. They come a little rounded from the factory.

I agree with Allen about the relay. In fact if you look at all three of the relay contact solder points, they don't look the best, so that one could have just been a bad joint from the beginning.

While you're re-soldering the bad joint I'd go ahead and touch up the other two. (the larger ones at the top left tip of your finger, and the one across from it to the right of your finger)

CA92807 · Aug 5, 2020

If you just re-solder the failed connection it will almost certainly fail again if the relay doesn't fail first. The root cause is very high heat from the relay that is conducted down the heavy lead into the solder joint. The heat comes from the load current (your pump?) passing through the high contact resistance of the failing relay. Also the relay could become stuck on if the case deforms or melts from the heat. This one way relays die. It's used-up, reached the end of its life.

JamesW · Aug 5, 2020

CA92807 said:
The heat comes from the load current (your pump?) passing through the high contact resistance of the failing relay.

I don't think that you understand exactly what the situation is.

In any case, the solder fix usually works.

ajw22 · Aug 5, 2020

CA92807 said:
If you just re-solder the failed connection it will almost certainly fail again if the relay doesn't fail first. The root cause is very high heat from the relay that is conducted down the heavy lead into the solder joint. The heat comes from the load current (your pump?) passing through the high contact resistance of the failing relay. Also the relay could become stuck on if the case deforms or melts from the heat. This one way relays die. It's used-up, reached the end of its life.

The K1 relay we are discussing delivers 39V power to the SWG cell. It is a common failure point of the Hayward SWG boards due to heat and the relay itself rarely fails. You can read more and find circuit diagrams at Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

Westovers · Aug 6, 2020

I will try just re-soldering for now... But what about my fuse question? Should I replace the 20A fuse with a 15A fuse to prevent this from happening in the future? Or is that a misguided idea (I read it somewhere else...)?

Bama Rambler · Aug 6, 2020

I wouldn't replace the fuse with a smaller one. You won't save the board and you may wind up with a bunch of nuisance fuse failures.

Westovers · Aug 15, 2020

ajw22 said:
Try and just touch up the solder joint first and see if it gets the board working.

Thank you Allen @ajw22. You were right: re-soldering that particular connection has the board operational again.

For the future...

I think I will eventually need to replace one or more of the 6 plastic 'posts' that clip into the board and hold it to the board mount, and one of the 4 taller plastic 'posts' that clip to the board to hold the small control panel has already broken... Do you know where I can I find/replace these?

Also, I can't seem to find the capacitor online that I might need to replace the potentially 'bulging' one discussed... Any ideas as to part number and manufacturer?

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