Green water due to algae/pollen | main drain is blocked by leaves & skimmer is clogged

LionBiscuits

Member
Dec 21, 2019
22
Florida
I've been able to get by with just the main drain for a bit since moving in, hiring someone to shoot Co2 into my skimmer line. And then the oak tree catkins attacked my pool after a huge rain/wind storm. Skimmed the water for a few hours, and the image below is the result. I immediately went and re-filled my liquid chlorine jugs with the intention of doing SLAM process after a pH/CYA check, since it's worked well in the past. I turned on the pump, pump isn't priming.

"Great, there's probably leaves covering the main drain." I go to get my leaf vac (the ones that require a hose and mesh net) only to discover the net is gone. The net blew into the pool, and is likely what's covering the main drain.

Normally I'd just fish it out carefully. But I can't see more than 6 inches into the water. So my SLAM is on a temporary hold.. Does anyone know of a way to clear it up a bit without having the water circulate? I've been brushing like crazy, but am I pretty much outta luck until someone comes to clear my skimmer line?

12.jpg
 
Post a complete set of test results to get started.

You can put a submersible pump in the water to stir it up and pour in liquid chlorine. It may not totally clear the water. But it can keep it from getting worse until you fix your suction system. It may clear up the water enough to see the bottom. It will take a lot more manual effort.
 
Do you remember where the drain is in your pool? Can you use your brush to try to push whatever is on top of it off? I would use the brush to also mix up the water and at least start adding chlorine to your pool so it does not get worse.
 
I bit the bullet and purchased a new mesh bag. Sure enough, the first thing my leaf eater sucks up? The other bag.
Still working on getting the green out. I'd run the numbers, but I lost the paper I wrote them down on and the pool is at shock-levels of chlorine so the numbers wouldn't be accurate unfortunately.
The numbers, aside from the stabilizer and hardness, were a-ok. The stabilizer levels are extremely low, but my local "expert" says not to worry about adding it at the moment because the water is too cold and I'd be wasting money.
 
Perhaps the deficient stabilizer level allowed the FC to burn off faster than you expected. Which allowed the algae to really move in on you.
We really need to know:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

How do you normally chlorinate?? Using any other chemicals or algaecides?

Maddie :flower:
 
Perhaps the deficient stabilizer level allowed the FC to burn off faster than you expected. Which allowed the algae to really move in on you.
We really need to know:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

How do you normally chlorinate?? Using any other chemicals or algaecides?

Maddie :flower:

I'll do my best to find that sheet of paper with the levels of each ASAP.
I normally chlorinate using liquid chlorine from my local pool shop. Not currently utilizing any other chemicals or algaecide, unless the water is too basic, in which case I use liquid muriatic acid to balance the pH.
 
Your sig says you have a TF-100 test kit. Why can’t you take a current set of tests? If your FC is greater than 10 don’t act on the pH test.
 
Apologies for the delay in updates! I successfully cleared the clog/blockage in my skimmer line after a long battle of failed attempts. I used a 15' drain auger for 1.5" pipes. TONS of leaves were removed. After a solid SLAM, flocc treatment and adding CYA, my pool is sparkling again!

TC - 3.0
FC - 4.0
pH - 7.5
TA - 90
CYA - 30
CH - 125

Next plan of action is to increase the hardness a bit after the stabilizer has had some time to dissolve.
Leaves shouldn't be an issue going forward in the skimmer line- the clog has existed since we purchased the house unfortunately. The geniuses that sold us the house vacuumed everything straight to the pump/filter, leaving the main drain as the only option to get water circulating.
 
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Can you confirm your chlorine levels? You should have a reading for FC (Free Chlorine) and CC (Combine Chlorine). TC (Total Chlorine) is the sum of the two. If your CC number is 1 ppm, you may need to SLAM. Even with clear water, algae may still be present.
 

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Can you confirm your chlorine levels? You should have a reading for FC (Free Chlorine) and CC (Combine Chlorine). TC (Total Chlorine) is the sum of the two. If your CC number is 1 ppm, you may need to SLAM. Even with clear water, algae may still be present.

Whoops! I got TC and CC mixed up, my apologies. My current CC is 3.0. FC is currently 4.0 after coming down from a 9.0 SLAM.
 
If your CC is at 3 ppm, you'll need to continue your SLAM until you pass the three tests:
  • CC 0.5 or lower
  • Pass an OCLT
  • Clear water
You'll probably need some advice on how to deal with the flocculant and cartridge filter. Do you have the ability to vacuum to waste?
 
If your CC is at 3 ppm, you'll need to continue your SLAM until you pass the three tests:
  • CC 0.5 or lower
  • Pass an OCLT
  • Clear water
You'll probably need some advice on how to deal with the flocculant and cartridge filter. Do you have the ability to vacuum to waste?

Okay! Good to know, thank you.
Yes, thankfully I can remove the PVC pipe between the motor and filter and install an 'L' shape PVC with hose for discharge. I've already vacuumed to waste all of the flocc that settled at the bottom.
 
yeah, its not so good advice. It will coat and clog up the cartridges. How are they doing now?? Or have you changed them?

Maddie :flower:

I've just got the one filter on-hand, it's still white. I've been rinsing all of the dead algae off of it daily up until I added the CYA yesterday. Didn't want to end up rinsing any off that hadn't full dissolved yet since it was dry acid. Instead of doing the sock method, I used an ultra-fine skimmer sock-- but I'm pretty sure some of it ended up getting through the plumbing regardless.
 
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