Build up on pool floor

What test kit do you use?

Post your water chemistry.
 
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I had to replace my Hayward T-15 last week. It wasn’t reading any salt level. After replacing it I set the chlorination to 80%.
Today I tested the water and my readings are as follows...
Chlorine is 5-10ppm
pH 7.8
Total Alkalinity 120ppm
CYA 100
Salt 3700ppm
Please advise....
 
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Where did those tests come from?

CL of 5-10 is too wide of a range.

CYA 100 is too high. You have to stop using tablets that add CYA.

With high CYA and low FC that white stuff can be some form of algae.

What test kit do you have?
 
Ah, ok. For chlorine you need a FAS-DPD test. That tests for free chlorine (good stuff) and combined chlorine (bad). The addition of those two is total chlorine which is what the test you have measures. It’s not 5-10, the first column is chlorine and the second is bromine (different reagent). So, your total chlorine is at least 5..which doesn’t tell you much. 100 is the maximum you can test for CYA, you need to do a diluted test (50% pool water 50% tap) to see if it’s a lot higher.
 

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I see now you have a SWG. You have to get a real test kit to get accurate FC readings. We recommend the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. And getting the Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer makes testing easier and more accurate.

With CYA 100 you need a FC of around 8 and you need a test kit that can test FC precisely. Really you should drain about 30% of your water and get your CYA down around 70.

I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry . Once you get your test kit you should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test for algae. If you fail the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test then you need to use the SLAM Process process to kill the algae.

You can’t follow any of our methods without the test kit. Get the kit, post your first tests, and we will guide you from there.
 
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