New to TFP

Jump to latest Follow Reply
1dwn5up

1dwn5up

Member
Mar 14, 2019
12
Houston, TX
Hello Everyone,

I found TFP while looking for test strips on amazon, purchased a Taylor K-2006 (speed stir on the way). I've had the pool for about a year and a half, but I have noticed that when the pool pump is on high, the water looks cloudy in the pool coming off the spa spillway. The deep-end looks good but not great. I brushed and vacuumed everything a day ago, and did my tests today. I need help on what to tackle first, I believe it should be a partial drain and refill. Please let me know the steps to take. Any help is appreciated.

CYA: 100
pH: 7.6
FC: 2.5
CC: 0.5
TA: 100
Calcium Hardness: 200-300 ppm

Two additional questions:
When testing the water from the deep end using the upside down bottle method 12-18 inches below surface, does it matter if the pump is on or should you wait until it's finished it's high cycle? Is the sample ok as long as it's not near a return jet or skimmer?
Also since I will be switching over from chlorine tabs, just remove all of them now and only use when going on vacation?

Thank you,
Harry
 
Welcome to the forum!

As long as the pump is running you can grab your test sample most anywhere in the pool. I tend to get it at the some spot each time.

Good job on the proper test kit. Do follow the FC/CYA chart, As you tested 100 for CYA, I would suggest you follow step 8 in CYA test directions. Depending on if you test higher than 100 for CYA you may need to do an extensive water exchange.

You should remove the tabs. But realize until you know what your real CYA is, you do not know what FC you need. Once you have exchanged some water and have things stable, run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if you need to SLAM Process

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
 
Thank you for the warm welcomes. I will be doing the diluted CYA test to see what I get within the next few days.

Let’s say I need to drain the pool. I have a whole house water softener. I have a bypass which I used when I originally filled the pool up. When would I want to use softened water vs. the bypass so the water is not softened?
 
You would want to bypass the water softener if doing a full exchange. It would probably not be able to keep up and you still need 300 ppm CH in your water for your plaster.
 
I just reperformed my CYA test by doing the second part of diluting it. It still came back at 100. So should I perform a 50/75/100% drain of the pool and start over?

Also, how do I drain the pool? Do I turn off my two skimmers and leave the main drain on and just attach the hose to the pump bib. Anything else I need to do?
 

Attachments

  • DDCBDBBA-42E0-47B2-9019-0848B754A2D8.jpeg
    DDCBDBBA-42E0-47B2-9019-0848B754A2D8.jpeg
    505.7 KB · Views: 10
  • 9A2014DC-4BDD-4FCB-90EE-3A86DEB9215A.jpeg
    9A2014DC-4BDD-4FCB-90EE-3A86DEB9215A.jpeg
    428.3 KB · Views: 10
To drain water from the pool it is best to get a submersible utility pump attached to a garden hose and drop it into the pool. Trying to use the pool pump to drain a large amount of pool water often does not work out well.

A pump like the one on the left in the pic below.

Pool pumps

Pool pumps

 
  • Like
Reactions: 1dwn5up
1dwn5up said:
Thank you for the warm welcomes. I will be doing the diluted CYA test to see what I get within the next few days.

Let’s say I need to drain the pool. I have a whole house water softener. I have a bypass which I used when I originally filled the pool up. When would I want to use softened water vs. the bypass so the water is not softened?
Click to expand...
/
5up,

Welcome aboard! You'll have smooth sailing with your pool on TFP. It's dedicated to help people take care of their pool the simplest and easiest way using TFP techniques. Once you get the pool drained, experts already helping here will guide you every step of the way to a Trouble Free Pool.

Only additional thing I'd suggest is when you have time I would get a test of your raw water into the house and a test of the softened water . This will help as you manage your CH in the future.

Chris
 
:goodpost:

And, when you get your CH and CYA where dialed in, use softened water maintain the correct level. With proper CH management and by staying away from solid/granular forms of chlorine, you won't need to drain your pool again for a very long time.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Hello Allen & Chris,

Thank you! Should I test raw and softened for everything or just Calcium.

I'll be renting a sump pump to drain the pool. After fillup and performing an overnight Chlorine test, assuming I don't need to SLAM, what would I need? Just liquid chlorine? I have muriatic acid.

Thanks,
Harry
 
You live in Houston. Be very careful draining a pool in Houston. Do you know your water table level? Most of Houston is a swamp. It may not be wise to drain your pool. The shell could pop out of the ground.

Another option
You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
 
  • Like
Reactions: setsailsoon
mknauss said:
You live in Houston. Be very careful draining a pool in Houston. Do you know your water table level? Most of Houston is a swamp. It may not be wise to drain your pool. The shell could pop out of the ground.

Another option
You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
Click to expand...

Good point Marty! There are places in Houston with very high water table. Pool builders I knew in the area used a "rule of thumb" of never drain more than 30% for this reason. Your way would be even safer and with the cost of a pool it's easy to justify the extra time.

Chris
 
1dwn5up said:
Hello Allen & Chris,

Thank you! Should I test raw and softened for everything or just Calcium.

I'll be renting a sump pump to drain the pool. After fillup and performing an overnight Chlorine test, assuming I don't need to SLAM, what would I need? Just liquid chlorine? I have muriatic acid.

Thanks,
Harry
Click to expand...
1dwn5up said:
Thank you! Should I test raw and softened for everything or just Calcium.
Click to expand...

Harry,

Glad to help. You want to test for CH. The total hardness test will be higher since it includes additional salts like potassium and magnesium. You want to manage the CH so your water won't dissolve/leach calcium from pool surfaces.

You're off to a great start with the TFP. I found this site over 3 years ago when I took my pool over from the pool service. It was lucky for me. I went to Pool School and then started just doing what they say here. Long story short. My pool costs went waaaay down ($70-$10) and my pool quality is the envy of neighbors. I've never had to change water or anything. Experts here were holding my hand all the way and easily kept me between the curbs.

My only additional recommendation is to encourage you to ask any and all questions. You shouldn't even need to wonder if you're doing the right thing. I did it that way and it worked great. People here just love to help. There's no conflict of interest like you'll experience at the pool stores. As you cans see from my signature, I've done a lot of upgrades and I had a whole team of experts with every one of them.

Good luck with your pool and please do keep us all posted on your conversion to TFP.

Chris
 
Completed my water transfer, sump pump was slow, ran for 7.5 hours, didn't realize it until I pulled it out, but got my CYA down. I also cleaned out my filters in the process. Here are my results:

pH: 7.7 (just added muriatic acid to bring it down to 7.2)
CYA: 50 PPM
FAC: 0.4 PPM
CC: 0.2 PPM
ALK: 100 PPM
CH: 160 PPM

Since I added muriatic, what is next on my list to do, SLAM? If I need to SLAM, I'm not sure if poolmath app is working correctly. When I switch the SLAM toggle with a CYA of 50, it says my Target FC is 20, however right below it says my target is outside the suggested range.
Sanitizer: 12.5% Bleach at 128oz. (1 gal.) = 261oz or 2 gallons + 1 cup or 2 (128oz.) jugs

Thank you!
 
1dwn5up said:
When I switch the SLAM toggle with a CYA of 50, it says my Target FC is 20, however right below it says my target is outside the suggested range.
Click to expand...
Correct. A SLAM level FC is outside the suggested Target Range for normal operations. If you are SLAM'ing, that is not normal.
 
Do you have visible algae? If so, go straight to SLAM. Otherwise, do the OCLT.
Rain has little effect on pool water chemistry unless you get enough to significantly overflow the pool.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply