Functions of valves & their settings

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tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
2,185
Houston, TX
Hello to all,

The pics below pertain to an actuator valve that is designated as "Filter bypass", which when in Spa mode, it's supposed to provide greater pressure to return jets by not having to go thru filter. This valve has been reset 3 diff times bc each thought it needed to be set their way. First by PB, then by 2 diff tech's when they came out to replace a failing EcoStar. What should be the settings for valve to bypass filter, then thru filter? Are there other options? The pipe coming to this valve is coming right from the VS Filter pump.

The next question is the valve also in this pic at the bottom. The PB came back about 2-3 months after the install "was completed", and installed this valve. I asked him what he was installing it for Abd he said "easier maintenance". I then had to take a call and they were gone when I returned. We never discussed it later, so I'm not certain of its usages.

Thank you very much for your help in advance / tstex
 

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The way I see it at this moment: the bypass is closed... Spa Mode should turn that valve so the handle is over the blue box (so closed is towards the filter inlet side)
Can you take a couple more pictures stepped back a bit so the whole plumbing/pipe 'situation' can be seen? It looks like the filter bypass is connected to the filter outlet? Is there a check valve so that it doesn't back flow into the filter outlet? (causing additional lose of pressure ta-boot)
 
quoted by splash: "Is there a check valve so that it doesn't back flow into the filter outlet? (causing additional lose of pressure ta-boot)?"

The answer is NO...that's a great observation...if the filer is full, would it create static wall pressure to prevent water pressure loss?
 
TX,

To confirm what splashpad said above.. The bypass valve either allows flow into the filter inlet or stops flow into the filter and allows water to by-pass the filter.. In the position in your pic, the "closed" wording on the valve is pointed at the by-pass label on your pipes.. In this position water cannot go through the by-pass and must go through the filter. In the Spa mode, the valve should move so that the words "closed" point to the filter inlet.. This keeps water from going though the filter and forces it to use the now open by-pass pipe.

I do not see the check valve the splashpad is talking about.. :scratch:

The "maintenance" Jandy valve at the bottom of your pic is most likely so that you can open the pump lid without having your filter drain down.. But I can't picture how it would work ...

I do not see the logic behind the filter by-pass.. It is the first time I have seen it, so what do the other 50 million pool owners do?? :)

As far as your skimmers and main drain go.. I suggest that you set the main drain so that the "closed" wording is pointed to down which will shut it off.. then rotate the valve back open just a little, so that it is only open about 10%.

Update... Try to adjust the Skimmer valve so that the two skimmers have the same amount of suction. Your pool builder handicapped you by only using one valve.. Test by taking out the skimmer baskets and feeling the amount of suction right at the pipe at the bottom of each skimmer..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Thanks Jim - really appreciate your follow-up...I will do so when I get home this later day and post back...water temps were in the mid 60's last week w a few days of sunshine and high were in the 70's...not water temps are back down to 55 and it's going to be 30-32 by mon-wed...spring is still a bit away...thanks again

PS - there is no check valve, Splash was just asking if there were one...my response was no. The jandy valve on the bottom has the off position at 6 oclock opposite the long handle...what is that valve doing now?
 
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Jimrahbe said:
I do not see the check valve the splashpad is talking about.. :scratch:
Click to expand...
There isn't one, that's what I was confirming, so filter debris can get picked up and taken through/deposited in the heater (from the "backwashing effect")


Jimrahbe said:
I do not see the logic behind the filter by-pass.. It is the first time I have seen it, so what do the other 50 million pool owners do?? :)
Click to expand...
My thoughts exactly, I would think you would WANT the water filtered before heater
 
Jim quoted:

"As far as your skimmers and main drain go.. I suggest that you set the main drain so that the "closed" wording is pointed to down which will shut it off.. then rotate the valve back open just a little, so that it is only open about 10%.

Does it matter which way you rotate the valve handle?

Update... Try to adjust the Skimmer valve so that the two skimmers have the same amount of suction. Your pool builder handicapped you by only using one valve..

Yes, he handicapped us in a lot of ways...what is the starting valve position and recommended valve ending position?


Test by taking out the skimmer baskets and feeling the amount of suction right at the pipe at the bottom of each skimmer"

will do
 
splashpad said:
There isn't one, that's what I was confirming, so filter debris can get picked up and taken through/deposited in the heater (from the "backwashing effect")
Click to expand...

SP, I agree 100%... If this were my system that by-pass would be history... :)



tstex said:
Does it matter which way you rotate the valve handle?
Click to expand...

TX..

Does not matter on a two way valve, but the handle does not look like it has enough room to move down..

As far as the skimmers go, you will just have to play with it... the Far skimmer will need to have more water flow because it if further away.. My "guess" 60% for far skimmer and 40% for the near skimmer, but that is just a guess and there is no way to tell from here.. :) To be honest, it is not a major issue one way or the other..

Jim R.
 
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Fair enough Jim...I was thinking on the same lines w the skimmer allocation bc one is father than the other...ill balance them

I guess I'll just leave the bypass valve in the position it is - what a waste of $$.

As is, the bottom valve should be closed, yes. It would just shorten the bsckblow from heater entrance... Thanks again/ and thx too splash
 
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TX,

I would leave that "maintenance" valve fully open just like the pics show.. It does not matter if that valve is open or closed if the by-pass is off.. But... if the by-pass was opened for any reason a closed maintenance valve will dead head the pump... You do not want that to happen.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
If you are not going to use the actuator I would remove it and put it in a garage or shed to get it out of the elements. Save for when one of your other ones has an issue.
 
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