Another TFP DIY success :)

tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
2,186
Houston, TX
Hello to all,

Replaced the "non-fixable" failed ck valve w the Jandy. I had to relocate it just a bit to be able to properly access the screws later if required. I have also enclosed a few pics of the old one so folks will know to tell their PB's not to install this type.

One thing w the new Jandy [and the other model did not have a spring], the resistance to push open the flapper, there's a lot more resistance than I thought. I'm not sure if it's just my perception, but it seems that the spa overflow might be a bit less brisk. Could this new valves resistance cause any diminished flow of water?

Thanks again for everyone's prior help, tstex
 

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Rob, yes. the flapper stayed open the whole time...the last two pics is the failed one...it must have operated by the rubber being real stiff or something, bc there's no spring or anything to make it go back into place..

After I glued the jandy in place, I took a pair of needle nose pliers and was able to pull open the flapper to insure it did not stick or have any glue on it. The jandy valves are designed w a half raised pyramid feature to stop the PVC from being pushed all the way to the flapper, thus stopping the glue from coming in contract w the flapper.
 
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Check valves do create resistance to flow and will decrease your overall flow rate. They add TDH to the system.
 
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