Installing New Hayward TriStar SP3202VS pump

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D

DDrakeSoCal

0
Bronze Supporter
May 29, 2018
7
Simi Valley/California
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello everyone and thank you for any feedback you might have.


I will be installing the new pump this weekend and want to get my ducks in a row so install goes smoothly.


1: The new pump comes with 2 unions and will be using them at pump input and output ports.
Should I also use unions at Valve body input and output ports?


2: As you can see in the pic2018-06-02 08.14.08.jpg I have 1 1/2" copper stubbed out of ground for both suction and return with Mission clamps
doing the transition to PVC. Should I be using something like this instead.


So please comment on these questions and thank you for reading.

Doug
 
Any time you can use a union going in and out of a piece of equipment it is a good idea. At some point down the road it will make your life easier to service the equipment.

As for the copper transition that compression fitting is probably better than the rubber couplings but if you are know how to sweat copper fittings a copper NPT adaptor sweated onto the copper would be even better.
 
CJadamec said:
Any time you can use a union going in and out of a piece of equipment it is a good idea. At some point down the road it will make your life easier to service the equipment.

As for the copper transition that compression fitting is probably better than the rubber couplings but if you are know how to sweat copper fittings a copper NPT adaptor sweated onto the copper would be even better.
Click to expand...

thank you for the reply CJ. I will purchase a couple more unions for the Valve body.

Yes i do know how to sweat copper fittings but did not want to work that hard Lol. Do you believe that I should come off of the 1 1/2" copper suction to 2" PVC with a length of 10 or 12" prior to the suction union on the pump? I read that is good practice to reduce possible cavitation issues. It helps with a bigger charge, is that correct?

Doug
 
With a pool pump that has a strainer basket infront of the impeller the pipe leading to the pump doesn't need any length of straight pipe in front of it. The basket takes care of correcting flow into the eye of the impeller.

Add as much or as little pipe as you need to make installing and servicing the pump easy.

The sweat fitting will reduce the chances of suction leaks. Make sure the copper pipe is 1.5"and not 1.25" copper. They look very similar and are hard to tell apart in the field. It will save you from getting the wrong fittings.
 
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The zip ties on and the other junk on the heater out pipe are my additions, which you should ignore lol.

I have no idea what they did for what looks like PVC coming out of the ground, I'm pretty sure when it was built they would have used copper like the heater out.

Think those pics should give you a good idea of how they installed the pumps.
I used Pools by Ben, they were REALLY cheap because they do the DWP rebate for you, made it a no brainer to use them.
And it made the rebate really easy, DWP waived the inspection, probably because they must get tons of rebates from Ben.

Randy
 
Thanks for pics Randy. They help especially the one showing the compression fitting on the Copper thanks. Yeah the suction side PVC going all the way down to the cement must be PVC coming out of the cement. I think I will try a compression fitting first and if does ok (no leaks) great! I can always sweat on a copper NTP adapter as CJ stated later if it leaks.

I don't see any backwash valves or check valves on your plumbing? Never have see that before.
Anyway thank you again for the pics, very helpful.

Doug
 
DDrakeSoCal said:
Thanks for pics Randy. They help especially the one showing the compression fitting on the Copper thanks. Yeah the suction side PVC going all the way down to the cement must be PVC coming out of the cement. I think I will try a compression fitting first and if does ok (no leaks) great! I can always sweat on a copper NTP adapter as CJ stated later if it leaks.

I don't see any backwash valves or check valves on your plumbing? Never have see that before.
Anyway thank you again for the pics, very helpful.

Doug
Click to expand...

Your welcome, pics are always nice.

Pool came with the house. It came with a Pentair DE filter, which had a lever on the bottom which you moved to backwash.
I started having problems leaking DE into the pool even after changing the filter elements inside, so I had a cartridge filter installed a few years ago.

Also, the spa is not part of the pool, is a completely different system with its own pump, filter and heater. Came that way with the house like the pool.

Randy
 

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