Connect Shop-Vac to Skimmer?

A shop vac may not be powerful enough, (volume, not pressure to blow out the main drain), if you have one. This is due to the fact that you are pushing air from the skimmer, back to the filter and then to the main drain and the run can be quite long.

Can you please explain your set up. Skimmers, Main Drain, Return jets, etc. Also, if you can take a picture of the equipment pad from all angles, that would be great. Thank you.

I just figured there were some straight-forward adaptors to do this, but maybe that's not the case.

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You can always make adapters to fit your Shop Vac. Look at post # 2 in the link from this thread. That is what I did. Forget about renting the Cyclone. Even if the cost was $50, in a few years you would make out. In addition, you could always help friends close their pools.

If you lower the water below the skimmers, you could close off the skimmer area with the main drain Pentair valves. Then go in with the shop vac and suck the water out of the system. This may work. I actually suck the water out while moving air. Your main drain is a different story. Here is a link that may help you with a compressor.

Below, please find a thread (Post # 10) which describes the experience a member has had with a pancake compressor and how to work more efficiently!

Closing: blosing out lines, water level and then some

From speaking with the manufacturer, the Cyclone produces about 5 psi, and with the resistance of the water, the return jets are at about 90 cfm and main drain about 30 cfm. Under no pressure, the unit produces 130 cfm. The bubbling effect of the main is real powerful.

I would assume that an air compressor that can produce 10 cfm may be sufficient to move the water below the frost line. There is also a difference of the hose involved. The 1.5" hose creates a lot more air than your standard air compressor hose.

Please take a look at post # 15 and this describes the amount of CFM needed and for what. If one can isolate each area when closing, the task is accomplished a lot easier. This also assumes 2" plumbing, which creates less resistance. Some pools have 1"-1.5", which may require more cfm. The information is from another member on the forum, but I can not recall who wrote the post as it was copied.


Problem blowing out pool lines


Just purchased a car at the Subaru Dealer in Jenkintown. Too bad that I am not heading that way in the next 3 months or I would stop and take care of this for you. My next scheduled service is 6 months from now.

agree that a shop vac will not be enough to blow out main drain. i ended up buying a cyclone blower and do not regret it a bit. i made an adapter from an old pump basket lid that i use to attach blower there. by alternating valve positions i can blow out all my lines without moving blower. MUCH easier closing.

A 90's cyclone for $100? It is not that shop vacs are doomed to fail, do not blow out the main drain properly. A pancake compressor would or should work. There was something in the previous post.

cyclone pool blower | eBay

The blower is 20 years old? The new ones are lower and around $300.

If it works, not a bad deal. I use mine a little more often. Unclog the central vac in the house once in a while. Have blow debris through downspout. Also, close friends pools. Kind of was repaid for friends pools in one way or another. Good luck and keep us posted!

Please send picture(s). Where did you connect to? I did this myself when I received my Cyclone. If I remember correctly, I had it about 3 months prior to closing. Wanted to make sure that I could get through it. The process is very easy. Although, make sure someone is there to shut off the unit at the last return jet to avoid building up backpressure.

I see that you also have not added your signature. Please do so.

I actually plug the suction side (skimmers and returns up) with black rubber plug and then start with the returns. Once they are done, I open basket and add black plug on return side and remove plug on suction side. Now, I work on the skimmers and main drain. Lower water below the skimmer by 1". I vacuum water out while the Cyclone is doing its job. Then I take my time with the Gizmo's. Next onto the Main Drain (about 1 minute max). Air lock the system and quickly open the cover and place a black plug back in to the basket on suction side. This takes approximately 15 minutes.

After all this is done, I remove the drain on filter, the pressure gauge, place MPV in between 2 settings. This year, I will take the salt cell out and put a dummy cell in (or this will be done before closing). Shut off the power to the units, shut off breakers at the panel and over the heater. Then the cover and water bags.

Whichever way you close your pool is fine. The idea is to remove the water out of the lines and "Air Lock" the main drain piping.

Keep me posted on the closing!