Chlorine

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NewB1980

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Jun 10, 2017
16
FORT STOCKTON
I recently purchased and put up a 21 round agp. New to the whole pool chemistry thing, but has anyone had any trouble with trying to vaccum any algea , and running it through the sand filter ?Or should it always go to waste? Seems like the last couple of times i vaccumed and ran it back through thr filter ,it ended up blowing back into the pool? Is it common? I backwashed until the water ran clear , then rinsed. Last night i shocked it with 3 lbs 56% CH , HtH 4in 1. Vaccd this morning, but sent it to waste.Should i turn my feeder back on now or is it necessary immediately following the shock? 21 ft round 54 " wall , about 12k gallons of water .
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: I can assure you, if you have algae and green plumes in the water getting filtered, it will not all go away and certainly can get blown-back to the pool. Mine did .... before TFP. There are two key ingredients you need right now:
1 - The proper test kit (see TF-100 link below)
2 - Follow the SLAM process (link below) - you'll need the test kit for that. :wink:

Don't exhaust yourself with crazy amount of vacuuming because algae can only be killed by chlorine in the "proper" amount. The SLAM process works, but you must know the exact readings and be able to do that at home. Please save those reference below as they'll be very handy as you progress. Let us know if you have any other questions.

For now, just add about 1/2 - 1 gallon of regular bleach to the pool each day. It won't resolve everything right now, but might keep it from getting much worse until your test kit arrives.
 
Hello Texas Splash,thanks for the info,it is very much appreciated.
Dont have a test kit that will read high chlorine levels yet, i have the 6 way strips and a 4 way ph/chlorine test kit with reagent. I have the feeder turned up right now, the water is clear , i brushed the bottom of the wall near the cove and all around the cove and steps. The water wasnt bad , but it could have gotten worse. I had a thin layer of algea on the bottom, it was more of a slight tint on the liner . You could still see the liner and blue color , but a darker shade. I can smell the chlorine now , filter is back in service .My chemistry is as follows
Fc 4-6
Ph 7.8
TA 80
Th 800
CYA 30-50
I will do the overnight chlorine test tonight if we dont end up in the pool today.Should i leave the filter on for the overnight test , or off so chlorine isnt being fed ?
Direct sunlight , possibly around 100 -105 amb temp today. The water is about 78 deg . Would like to swim today, i think the chlorine level is ok to do so ,right?
 
If your CYA is truly between 30-50, you can swim because you can see the bottom and the FC level is not too high. Everything else though will be somewhat of a shot in the dark I'm afraid. You should be able to get somewhat accurate tests results with your drop reagent tester (i.e pH, TA), but I'd be worried about using any test strips. I wouldn't worry about the overnight test either without a way to test the FC precisely. For that we rely on the FAS-DPD testing portion that comes with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. Plus, you still see green. :( Even if ever-so slightly, it's there, so no sense in trying the OCLT yet. Hopefully in the near future you can obtain one of the kits and really maximize your pool care. Feel free to reference those links below for chemicals and levels to help you with your water chemistry. We'll be around if you need more help.
 
That water looks much better than I expected. Just understand that cloudiness and/or any green "puffs" when sweeping is a sign of algae. But for now, you can definitely swim. The elevated FC doesn't make the water cloudy. Below you can see a link to the Chlorine/CYA Chart. That's how we balance FC and CYA together. It's an important relationship to prevent algae, or elevate FC to kill algae during the "SLAM" process (when needed).

Also, keep an eye on those steps. They are notorious for hiding algae in the steps or within the tubing. At some point you might want to break it down and inspect. :wink:
 

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Yeah, maybe someday soon. I didnt have any liquid chlorine so i added about a half pound of 56% shock dilluted , and killed tge pump after about an hr of circulation.My FC was down to about 2-3 ppm But my next question would be .. if i do have any residual algae lurking behind the steps or on the ballast bags, would that eat up my FC ?
 
NewB1980 said:
Yeah, maybe someday soon. I didnt have any liquid chlorine so i added about a half pound of 56% shock dilluted , and killed tge pump after about an hr of circulation.My FC was down to about 2-3 ppm But my next question would be .. if i do have any residual algae lurking behind the steps or on the ballast bags, would that eat up my FC ?
Click to expand...

Almost instantly!

You need to get a good test kit, and follow the slam protocol. That's the best way to manage a pool. Until then it's a guessing game to know if you have enough chlorine or if you're losing the battle to the algae. Until you finally kill it all it'll be a perpetual battle to keep it at bay. That's where the pool stores get you because they'll sell you algaecides and phosphate remover to try to battle the algae. For less money, you can get one of the two recommended test kits and take care of your pool for good.
 
So , is it safe to say that using wal mart brand or even clorox will help manage my chlorine levels ? If so, how many gallons per ppm @ 12k gallons ?I am looking for the test kit as we speak. I will arrange to get the steps out of the pool and vaccum the floor , and of course , scrub the steps. Hopefully it will stay at bay for tonight , then start fresh tomorrow.
 
Yeah, plain bleach or pool shock will work. It's the same thing, just different strengths. Concentrated bleach is usually 8.25%. Pool shock is 10-12%. Just use whatever is the best deal and is freshest. Use poolmath to figure your chemical additions. 12k gallons would require 18oz of 8.25% bleach to add 1ppm free chlorine. Typical pool FC usage is roughly 3ppm per day, so you would need to add 53oz of bleach per day. You can get the Taylor K-2006C on Amazon or from several pool supply stores online. The TF-100 is a better value because it comes with more reagents that you'll need. It comes from tftestkits.net. Get the XL version so you'll have plenty of the FC test to finish the slam, and have enough for the season. If you haven't read through pool school, read through it a couple times too.
 
Thanks for this info. We will pursue the most economically sound but effecient means of sanitizing the pool. The first task at hand is getting the algea off the entry step area to help with chlorine efficiency. The remainder of the pool is pretty much spotless for now.
 
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