Recent content by Wester97

Through the settings I found that the outside board is 6522 Rev HH.

Hmm, that is the RS4 Rev F I mentioned earlier. I guess I should report in on the outside board too!

The kit should include a new board for inside and outside as well as a WiFi module? Or, is a new board inside not needed?

The RS4 manual says it can control the Pentair, so that seems like a winner. I just took the booster apart and everything looks good and sound freely, so I assume it is the motor itself.

Great! I’ll check it out. So this plus the IntelliFlo 3 HP would certainly be awesome. But it is probably oversized. Should I look for smaller or just appreciate that extra headroom? If my booster pump is shot, should I fix it and get a new pressure side cleaner (Quattro?) or opt for a...

It is Rev. F

AquaLink RS4

I have Jandy valves with automation, but my controller can’t control a VS pump past just turning it on/off. The pump in place now is 1.5hp and the waterfall is mostly just a trickle at full speed. Flow is weak compared to the 2hp it replaced. It doesn’t push debris into the skimmers as well...

Last year I replaced a 2HP SuperPump II with a 1.5HP variable speed pump as a bit of a stopgap until this summer. The 1.5 is not quite enough to run the pool efficiently and I'd like to replace it. Being able to schedule routines on the pump itself is nice and saves money so that the whole...

It comes from the temperature control board.

I ended up with a Millivolt temperature control board - I'm guessing this wont work with my hot surface ignitor ...

I think I need a diagram of what happens at the temperature board. These schematics leave that part out.

This is how it looks, taken from the troubleshooting manual. Although I don't see the high-limit switches. I have 24v on both side of the pressure switch, so I think it's good to go. After step 5, I think what I might be missing is 24v on the yellow/black wire that leads to IND port. I...

I thought about jumping it, but I do see ~24v on both sides of the switch - that indicates that it is closed, right? The docs for the ignition controller talk about seeing the valve going from open to closed in the startup sequence. Does this sound right?

No new instructions, but the ports are labeled the same, but 2 are in a different order. I put the old controller back in and got the same fault.