Recent content by truta11

That's an interesting thought. I suppose I could have had AC coupling through the toggle switch, which is why it would pass AC voltage when I didn't want it to yet still show an open circuit with a DC continuity check. That's a moot point at this point, since I've removed the toggle switch...

Ok. I found and corrected a problem, but I don't know if it was the problem. The voltage from the main panel checked out ok. 243 V total, 60 Hz, 50% duty cycle. 121.5 V, 60 Hz, 50% duty cycle to each leg. The voltage leaving the breaker was 243 V, 60 Hz when on, and 700 mV AC with 0 Hz...

Thanks for the replies so far. I will check the power both before and after the breaker and will let you know what I find. By the way, I forgot to mention that I did check both legs independently, and they were both 115 V and 60 Hz. To answer the other questions: I took the voltage reading...

I've been cycling my Hayward 1.5 hp inground pump by hand to save on electricity costs. A few days ago I went to turn it on, and it would not start, but would just give 60 Hz hum. The rotor turned freely, so I decided to change the start capacitor. After changing the capacitor, the motor...

Thanks for the reassurance. Any pros or cons to leaving the cover on or off?

First post from a newbie. Thanks for all the help this forum has been so far. My apologies for the rambling message below. I have a 14,000 gallon in ground pool with a vinyl liner, sand filter. Bought the home this February, my first pool. The water has been crystal clear and almost perfect...