Recent content by sande005

Some of us are members of "Team Run Hot" - we run the Cl at the top of the range, or even a bit above. It is safe to swim all the way up to the SLAM level, so no issues there. A belt and suspenders margin for pool party days, or other times when CL might take a hit. A reason not to run high...

The only negatives to having one are: Initial cost (although over the life span, it saves you a GREAT deal of money on chlorine costs). They stop working in colder temps (<50), so at those times you need to use liquid chlorine. But not much at those temps. Depending on your other equipment...

A minor, and obvious, note to PoolStored's advice - try for a return in the deep end. Further for the heavier acid to fall and dilute itself before it gets to a surface, than if in a shallow end.

Ohhh...but you added the dry acid....... (Not preferred....but I have used it at times too, because it was there....)

Just as background - there is a relationship between TA and pH. The higher your TA, the higher your pH will want to be. Adding acid will lower both - but the effect on TA is a lot less, so it takes time. Those that really want to get after it will add acid to lower pH to 7.2-7.4. Then repeat...

And - do the deep cleaning!! You can add the new sand, then clean the old and new at the same time.

Minn Guy here - you've gotten great advice above. I was a tablet guy for decades, and the life changer was going salt water, and a big cartridge filter. My sand was too small for the pump/pool - so that was a big factor, which I fought for years unknowingly. Went from hours per week, and...

While this site is all about saving you time and money - there are two expenses you should consider: 1. The $8/yr subscription cost for the PoolMath app. Free only let's you save the most recent readings. Paid get's you a history of all past readings and additions to the pool. VERY helpful...

TEST FIRST! You may be very surprised at how much salt is in your "fresh water" pool! Fewer bags to buy and haul. Jury is out on the Core 55 monitoring of Ph and ORP. Just too new. Past history is that electronic measuring lacks much precision and needs frequent calibration. Always trust...

IF you are going into a SLAM to kill off algae, yes. Removes the dead algae faster. For normal operation - your choice. It is a balance between water appearance, cleaning needs, energy costs, and chlorine generation. Many of us run 24/7 at as slow a speed as will keep equipment (SWCG, Heater...

Hate to say, but if you aren't going to fix it, you either have to accept the loss of value on the property, or remove the pool. No idea as to cost in the Philly region for removal, but when I looked into it a few years ago for mine, the cost was in the several tens of thousands. There's...

Yes! Algae is microscopic. You can have a fair amount floating around that cannot be seen - until it reproduces so much that the water becomes cloudy and/or you can see the growth on the walls/floor. OCLT = "Overnight Chlorine Loss Test". Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

My pool sounds like it was similar - too small of a sand filter for the pump used. The flow would just force the dirt through, and back into the pool. It would take sometimes two weeks to clear from the conditions you show. I got very familiar with floc and the like over the years to try to...

Was out of town, so had to open several weeks later than I usually do. I try to get it done a few days after they declare ice out for my local lake (3/28 this year). So a month late. Water temp a balmy 46F. Algae has already gotten a foothold, so that stuff about it being too cold for algae...