Recent content by pjt

A consistent background is key. I prefer a backlit background. To get a consistent backlight, hold the block in front of your computer monitor with a blank white screen displayed (I use Google's homepage). Also, try holding the block sideways or upside down. Sometimes that helps distinguish...

Keep maintaining SLAM FC until you meet ALL of the exit criteria and end the SLAM... No. Your current TA of 60 is great. TA down to 50 is perfectly fine. A non-trichlor pool will probably never need baking soda.

Keep the pH in the 7s. Normally, add enough MA to lower the pH by a maximum of 0.4. Retest and add more MA if needed. Soda ash and baking soda will (almost) never be needed in a non-trichlor pool such as yours. The pH will rise all by itself and no action is required. Aeration does speed up...

I didn't know your heater had a bypass built in. How is it designed to work? The external bypass is good since you get the benefits of increased efficiency and you can disconnect the heater for maintenance etc. and still operate your system.

Contaminates consume FC. Keep topping up the FC to SLAM level. The more often you top up, the shorter the SLAM. Do it when your filter pressure is 25% higher than clean filter pressure.

It looks like your block is bad/faded. How have you been storing it? Was it exposed to sunlight for a long time?

How are you testing? Fill out your signature when you have a minute.

Your #1 priority should be buying a recommended test kit. It's the foundation for proper pool care and will save you much time, effort, and money while achieving superior outcomes. For you, I'd suggest a TF-Pro Salt. Stay out of the pool store. https://tftestkits.net/TF-Pro-Salt-p119.html

Temporarily turn off your SWCG to allow your FC to drift down below 10 and retest your pH. Use a uniform lit background for the pH test, such as a computer monitor with plain white displayed (I use Google's homepage). For the TA test, are you adding drops until there is no further color change?

Your first post said 200+, which is causing confusion. Run the TA test on your tap water. Stop using pH down. Use muriatic acid to lower your pH. Add a little baking soda to get your TA to 60. Add some stabilizer to get to CYA 30. Maintain the SLAM until all of the exit criteria are met.

If you're replumbing a few things, now would be a good opportunity to install an external heater bypass. Since you already have a check valve on the output of your heater, you just need a 3-way diverter and a T fitting.

Then you didn't start with a TA of 200+. Add enough to get your TA to 60. What's the TA of your fill water? You should have CYA 30 for your SLAM. Increase FC with liquid chlorine. You will have FC loss every day. Hot summer days will have high FC loss. Cold winter days will have almost no...

A quality test kit is by far the best money you'll spend on your pool, and it costs a fraction of the $250 in chemicals you've spent in the last week alone. It's an investment that will save you a lot of money, time, and effort, and it will deliver superior outcomes.

Use muriatic acid instead. Something is wrong here if you started with TA 200+. I would suspect testing error. What's your CYA level? For a CYA of 30, SLAM FC is 12. Run the SLAM until completion. Don't rush. Make sure you meet all of the exit criteria before bringing up your CYA level.

I successfully repaired freeze damage that cracked my IC60 using Plast-aid. It bonds extremely well with PVC, and it's unbelievably strong. Waterproof Plastic Repair Kits Fixes cracked ABS PVC Acrylic Wood More