Recent content by oneskinnydave

I only turned the bulb on after it was submerged. I know they can blow prematurely if turned on out of the water so I waited until submerged! LED bulb still going strong - but I’ll give it a fair shake tonight!

Ok - this one is baffling to me. To summarize - had an old fixture that was driving me nuts - never really worked properly. Ordered a new fixture, installed it just fine....light worked great for about an hour. Went to turn it back on and didn't work. Had another post asking about wiring the...

Yeah - just tried it at 14v and definitely getting nothing from the light. I’m gonna have to pull the diving board and check all the wiring at the junction box again. I did pull and redo some of the wires in the transformer box they seemed a little old and crusty. I guess I’ll have to pull the...

Hayward stopped selling the Astrolite to the general public (except the 100ft, super expensive one!) - but some retailers pointed me to this one - it is a generic version of it. Even fits the old plastic faceplate perfectly.

I actually just have a regular bulb in there right now that shipped with the light. It’s a J&J electronics fixture (generic Hayward astrolight). I have an LED bulb, but figured I might as well use the one that it shipped with until that one blows on me.

Hey all! After a two-year battle with a wacky light set up, I think I’ve got it all sort of figured out. My original light fixture seem to be shorting and I didn’t realize I had a junction box underneath my diving board, looks like some shotty wire nut twisting caused some wires too short...

Yes - light does not come on! It did for a while, then just kind of stopped. I was not getting any voltage at the housing, but I could get 12v at the transformer secondary side. I might try and put in a light socket to plug adapter at the bulb just to triple check that I wasn't/was touching...

Ah - yes - sorry, I think I got my terminology confused! This electrical stuff is a little new to me! I think regardless of my bulb in or out (I used a regular 12v/300W pool light for testing) I always had -1 reading - but let me triple test with the light out. If I have an open circuit -...

The light is up on the deck and open with the new bulb in it. I saw a few tests that tell me what the resistance should be while testing continuity...but nothing changed on the multimeter at all. It stayed at -1, which is why I assumed there is a short somewhere.

Ah - sorry - I tested the continuity of the light housing with the new bulb in it! My transformer is just where my "junction box" is - wire goes all the way from the pool to my pool shed where the transformer is.

Hey All, So - I think I have it narrowed down my issues - and I think I just have to replace the fixture....but I want to be sure I'm not missing something! I put in a new bulb to the fixture to test everything out - Here's what I have. -Tested the bulb with continuity (base of the bulb) -...

Interesting - I'll have to take a look! Thanks for the bump!

I have been trying to troubleshoot my light from my pool for a few seasons now. Seems to work for a month or so, then fail with a broken filament. I’ve been through two lights now. When I moved in the house had a 500 W/120 V light that didn’t work, I figured since I had a 12 V transformer I put...

We must have crossed steams while we posted :) I got an aquacheck kit for testing, seemed to be OK...but I think I'll have to get a k-1766 for sure. I might drain/refill a little tonight after the swimming dies down. Maybe a few inches in the next few days might do the trick. I'm the guy...

My instant readings from cell are as follows: 19.7 volts 6.4 Amps 5000ppm Salinity now...which seems way high...but this number fluctuates down to 4200 most times (I just turned it on now) 4600ppm Salinity Average Salt Strip tests have me around 4200 or so. Here are regular levels...